OEM Toyota 40 Series collapsable column question

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This bushing was missing and I pulled it apart and added it. Lots of people said that was it. Turns out, that bushing fit nicely above the 45222 cover but I don't see it on this diagram.

Truck steers great on the road.

Maybe since this is a collapsing column that space I'm seeing is for it to collapse.

Anyone?

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Good catch--not right if the shaft can separate from the rag joint--too much play and not safe. 45292-60011 is the foam cushion bush for the non-collapsible shaft. The 45222-30030 is the correct seal for the bottom of the collapsible shaft cup and is snug around the shaft circumference. There is a bit of in-n-out play in the cup that the lower shaft sits in, by design. But if the crushable shear pin on the longer, sleeved, upper shaft has been breached(not the swivel pin that holds the two anti-rattle blocks), or if the compression spring is incorrect or has been compressed and lost its length, or if the lower shaft has been replaced with a home-made replacement cut from a standard shaft, there would be excessive in-n-out play. The Arabs are known for their gimmicky replacements that look "good-enough". Sorry, I don't have one out and handy to give the measurement of the lower shaft, but perhaps someone with a collapsible column could give you that length measurement to check.

As a last resort you too could create a replacement lower shaft slightly longer than your existing to make up for the unwanted extra play.
BTW, their collapsible column isn't perfect, but an attempt to give some protection from getting speared in a head-on. Modern designs are likely much improved, but interesting to see how they engineered their solution anyway. Not every 40 series got them, limited markets, since they concurrently ran with the standard one-piece less complicated shaft.

Thanks for bringing this up--it will make me go check the play on one in service when I get home tomorrow evening.

Just my two cents. Good luck.
 
I'm just wondering if they built in a bit
Of play to make it more "collapsable" and I'm just not understanding how it works.

I'll give you a call Beno. @Bear if you could unhook yours at the rag joint and see if it moves that's really all I need to know. All the parts look OEM
 
This came from Beno last night. If I was to guess this part is what keeps tension on the lower shaft to keep it from sliding like mine is doing.

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I have a couple of these loose. The lower shaft slides easily inside the housing. Not like air bags that once deployed have to replace it.
Would you mind looking at my video and letting me know if that's normal.
 
If you had manual steering and had the lower shaft from a power steering could be a problem. I recently bought a lower shaft from power steering and it's about 30 MM shorter than manual. That is not install and could get a measurement. One thing to keep in mind that shaft is designed to slide in in an accident. So being at the bottom end makes sense. The two loose one the lower shaft easily flops around. Like Onur @OGBeno Beno said these are like a U joint. That helps with any mid alignment and binding in an accident. The whole idea is if the cowl moves forward in a frontal collision the steering shaft will no move back into the driver's chest. In 1983 I pulled a bunch of parts off a 79 FJ40 with 30K miles. Pulled the steering box to steering wheel. Over the years collected more columns. I can tell which one is from the 79. The tube is bend from the accident. By how much it's bend pretty sure a collapsible column would not have been damaged. I also got the roll bar and seat belts. The crack in the windshield I guess was from the driver's head. I assume driver wasn't wearing a seat belt. The collapsible column wouldn't have help that.

If you want I can get you the length of the lower shaft with power steering. It is not installed only had it a short time. But doubt yours is too short.
 
Mine is not too short. This is a factory PS truck. I'm just wondering if that slack is on purpose. Not sure how exactly to tell other than have someone that has one in their 40 to take the two rag joint nuts off and slide it up

Its really simple. Just a couple of loose fitting tubes.
 
It’s disconnected from the rag joint. It is going to go in at least 3” since that’s roughly the depth of the channels on the other side.
Then I think this thing is right.
 
It has been 25 years since I broke one down but the rubber "anti rattle" 45226 I thought ran perpendicular to the guide socket so they rubbed on the walls. I also don't remember the 45897 brake-away bolts but they were there when I swapped out locking system for USA non locking. I do remember the travel like in video Nolen.
 
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