O R I O N (2 Viewers)

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the idler has come pre-installed for quite a while now, in order to curtail the issues with leaky idelr shaft o-rings. they can be a little tricky, in the orion, stock case and split case.


i use the formula 518 on everything, gaskets and bolts. i make sure to get a nice even bead on both sides of the gaskets. most of the time i use my finger to smooth out the seatant as well.
 
Thanks for the suggestions on the sealant. My Orion came with the shaft pre-installed, but I could easily see that o-ring on one side had two obvious breaks in it, and replaced it. Not super easy, as the o-ring kept wanting to pooch out as the shaft was going back in. After repositioning the idler shaft, I loaded both ends of it with Permatex 2B and haven't seen any leaks from there. Just the nosecone.
 
just a thought, is the nose cone true ? it may be warped.
My orion leaked from the rear of idler shaft for about a week. I was following Treeroots write up and changed my oil bout same time he posted the silver shaving pics and I had similar silver flakes that have been reasoned to come from gear break in. After the first oil change it never leaked a drop. It does pop outa high range sometimes but I have driven it enought o konw when it is gonna pop out and I deal. It never pops outa low.
FWIW I do think it needs to come out and get the update pieces to be right but I am a little lazy and it really is not all that bad.
 
Orion HD #49, 4:1, and machined rear output to accept mechanical speedo gear. Working on install and hope to test it out soon.
 
i'm still tinkering with #393. part of the rebuild will include updating the case to fine spline shafts, the later 4spd webbed nose-cone, a nose-cone saver and an updated breather in the top cover.
i'm still waiting on the new fine spline main haft but as soon as it gets here the case will be done. i'll post some pics then.

i also just placed an order for another orion for a customer. once it gets here and i start building it i will post back up with a little trick i use to help prevent o-rings getting cut or shaved during install.
 
post some pics shawn!
Working on that....haven't had much time to play this month...hoping to finish up the cross member this weekend, then i can test it out.....
 
Working on that....haven't had much time to play this month...hoping to finish up the cross member this weekend, then i can test it out.....

come awn dude, pics!!!!! :bounce:
 
case #2444 just finished, getting shipped east tomorrow. :)
IM000825.jpg
 
can't help myself.


left to right:


1) NV4500 with case #264, being updated to an orion HD

2) new h55f with freshly rebuilt split case, installed into an fj40 today

3) case #2444 going to VT tomorrow
IM000824.jpg
 
I know how much is in the one on the left.

(I have bought complete, running FJ40's for less.)

I was wondering if that one on the left was yours Danno, I guess I have my answer.

Dont forget I still owe you some coin

Q
 
this will be delivered to you on saturday dan. orion #264 freshly converted to orion HD #52 :grinpimp:
nv4500 orion hd.jpg
 
Georg, how does the strength of the hd nosecone compare to the Warden's nosecone. Also, what's the advantange of going HD?

Thanks, Dan
 
Georg, how does the strength of the hd nosecone compare to the Warden's nosecone.



The front output housing on the Orion HD is not really an option for stock one-piece cases as it requires the use of the Advance Adapters 32 spline front and rear output shafts and uses a different arrangement to couple the front output shaft to the main shaft of the transfer case. These 32 spline output shafts are not compatible with OEM components of the stock Land Cruiser one-piece transfer case.



Also, what's the advantange of going HD?



32 spline front and rear output shafts, which are the same size as those used in the Atlas II transfer case, compared to the significantly smaller OEM components.


No OEM parking brake provision, no OEM speedometer drive provision, requires different shift linkage.


:meh:
 

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