Nothing earth shattering, just looking for some paint advice

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The other issue with removing the glass is that the clear coat while currenlty is blown through formthe middle at any point where you mask off an edge (if done improperly) will peel back and bubble up. slowly at first and then will peel away around the panel.
Good paint work is expensive, like good work of any kind. Personally my clear coat looks like hell but the rest of my truck isnt pretty anyways so for now, who cares?? Maybe in a few years I will paint it but for now it has no real rust issuues and I will leave it be and continue to use it like it was built for.
Dave
 
We have used 1/4" wire under the windshield trim to open up/ expose the areas under the trim molding. All areas under the molding looked great. We are able to base paint and clear coat up into and under the margins of the trim at a mimimum 1/4" in all areas and some areas slightly more than 1/4". Should not cause any problems in the future removal and installation of glass if necessary. We are also allowing 1 day dry times between coats in a heated paint booth. Sanding between coats. It will be fine. As a reminder Carlton does awseome work, he does $30,000 - $100,000 mustang restorations only and has been doing them for 25 years....He is the pro....
 
If you are abelt o rope the glass up that far you should be ok.
Just curious as to why you will use some many coats of clear coat. 1-2 is pretty much industry standard.
Dave
 
If you are abelt o rope the glass up that far you should be ok.
Just curious as to why you will use some many coats of clear coat. 1-2 is pretty much industry standard.
Dave
 
Industry standard blows. I never did less than 3 coats of clear. Understand that they were sprayed consecutively, with only enough time between coats for the paint to 'tack'. If I read him right, he's going to sand between coats, as he is sanding between color coats, so the thickness will be less than 4-5 full coats.

I've never heard of modern base coat being sanded. Old-time laquer jobs were sanded between coats, but that hasn't been common practice for decades. 2-3 coats of base are standard, depending on coverage. Sanding base coat exposes the metallic, which is supposed to be suspended in the color, and it's impossible to get a uniform metallic if you sand it. As long as the last coat of color isn't sanded, it won't matter. I assume the painter is being extremely anal about texture. Clear coats are rarely sanded between coats either, but I can understand the mentality in a show-car type finish. People who do those type of finishes are extremely anal, and I mean that in a good way. The extreme is merely adequate with them.

-Spike
 
This guy is extremely particular or anal as some may call it. He does this to ensure that the metallic paint/finish is well "blended" as he calls it. You are probably saying the same thing when you say "texture". You can really see what he means by the "blending" when you really look close at the metallic paint after it drys. He said it is not normally necessary to sand base between coats when using non-metallic paints, only metallics. We have put on two coats of base and have sanded lightly after each coat (1,200+ grit). We are going too spray coat three tomorrow. He said we may be putting on 4 coats, but we will see. We will see if he recommends sanding after the last base coat.

Then it is on to the clear coat(s). You are right about the clear coats. He says most folks never spray enough clear coat (usually only one or two) and rarely allow enough dry time between coats. He also indicated that we may need to sand between one or more of the clear coats since we are putting on more than normal....Again I am just the gopher....
 
Sanding betwen the clear coats is necessary if you let it cure to full (past tacky) Show car guys do this to make the paint color look deeper, If you do not sand between dried clear coats than dirt nibs will be magnified, it also allows for the depth of the paint to seem greater due to the added layers of clear.
I have been working in the auto body industry for 5 years now and 1-2 coats of clear is more than adequate protection for the base coat. going to 4-5 coats will definitely look better.
Most I have ever sprayed is 8 coats of clear, full dry and sand at 1200 then again at 2000. of course this was on a show car (68 fast back gt mustang) and was done in a non metallic black. looked like glass. turned out beautiful.
For a truck that I take out and routinely scratch up it just seems like more work than it is worth.
Dave
 
sdbrassfield, I think you are very lucky to have someone such as your friend letting you help. Cannot wait to see pics.
Cheers,
Sean.
 
10-4, I understand what you are saying brother. I will probably end up putting a few scratches on it too. Obviously, for a while after this, I will be watching what I do real close though.

But understand I am doing this mainly for the learning experience and will be getting a premium job for a non-premium price. I will not be really losing $$ on this paint job (mostly a lot of sweat). The pure cost of a normal job would be likely as much and/or probably more than I will have spent $$ wise in this one. I feel will be getting a good value for the money invested. I am not planning to sell Betsy, but if I do it may turn out to be a plus down the road since I have taken pics and documented most steps down the line from the interior to the exterior work. I have the connection to a real fine job and I am using it......
 
HVLP is a system that reduces the VOC's (volatile organic compounds) released into the air. Almost any paint can be sprayed by an HVLP gun that could go through a conventional gun. Some if not most states require HVLP for production (high volume) work. Because more paint sticks to the car, HVLP uses less material. It generally produces more texture in the paint, making the end result look worse. Conventional paint guns require a fairly high volume of air, HVLP requires even more, so bigger, faster air compressors are needed. HVLP works great for furniture, where color is the biggest issue, but on a car, high gloss and a glasslike finish are desireable but difficult to obtain.

-Spike
 
Right on Spike.

In the industrial sector the HVLP was developed to apply coatings where electrostatics could not be used. Wood, plastic and glass to name a few. In alot of these applications airless spray has been used but airless was unable to provide a finish and flexability that air spray offers. EPA quidelines has pushed for the reductions of VOC, and HVLP is one tool to meet the desired results. Negative with HVLP is it requires a stand alone compressor to supply the volume of air needed for atomization. High volume and low pressure lets the paint stay on the part and not bounce or deflect off the part. Which happens with a standard cup gun which uses very high pressure vs the HVLP.

As in all finishing each tool for has positives and negatives. One must weigh them accordingly and choose which tool is best for their application and material to be applied.

One of the reasons it is difficult for the standard body shop to match finishes it that most color and or top coats are applied electrostaticly ..rotary or airspray.
and maybe a high solid material, usually solventbase. Viscosity, temperature and manufacturer of the material used may also be different. This all effects the color and texture of the final product.

Some reair shops are tring to go with waterbase color or clear coats...which also creates mismatches.

Sorry to take off on this, I hope this helps one understand what is involved when painting or having it painted.
 
The more clear thats on it, the more times you can buff out the scratches before you hit the base coat..:D

BUT, thick paint is a lot easier to chip and it leaves huge craters when it does.
 
You are correct cruiserdan. Adhesion between the first coat and the substrate is normally better that adhesion between coatings. Thus easier to chip. One must note that at a automotive assembly line the coatings are designed to work with each other and are curred in ovens. Not always the case with some auto body shops.

Make sure who the coatings supplier is and follow their requirements and suggestions to achieve maximum performance.
 
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