Looking at 2013 LX570 92,000 miles. Is this normal?
Normal Rust?
- Thread starter milellie111
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Trunk hinges
Delaware car
Ok?
Delaware car
Ok?
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- #4
Engine bay
More than I would want to see, but nothing seems to be a huge deal that can't be dealt with as suggested above.
My '14 has considerably less rust, but it's on the west coast, so it's not an apples-to-apples comparison.
I just picked up this rust converter product. In a few weeks I plan to wire brush all visible rust, hit it with this product, then a self-etching primer, then a paint, and finally fluid film the entire underside (+ more fluid film every year). That should keep the LX looking pristine for years, and you could do the same.
My '14 has considerably less rust, but it's on the west coast, so it's not an apples-to-apples comparison.
I just picked up this rust converter product. In a few weeks I plan to wire brush all visible rust, hit it with this product, then a self-etching primer, then a paint, and finally fluid film the entire underside (+ more fluid film every year). That should keep the LX looking pristine for years, and you could do the same.
I would agree to what the guys have said. When I was looking for a LC I came across one with similar rust, probably a little worse, and I moved on as I started thinking of longevity and replacing parts down the road. I'm glad I moved on from that one but overall you could mitigate the majority of the rust with the suggestions above. Also comes down to the rest of the deal at hand...
My new to me ‘13 spent time in DE and NC. It has similar rust/corrosion to your pics, maybe 10% less. I have started the brush & spray with rust converter and I’m very confident that will get me where i want to be. I’m in GA so I’m not worried, any new rust will accrue slowly. I’m hopeful that I’ll get 10yrs out of it.
I’ve accepted that spraying fasteners with penetrating oil is a necessity. In the little bit i have done so far I haven’t snapped or stripped any fasteners. I’ve decided the underside looks worse than it is...
I’ve accepted that spraying fasteners with penetrating oil is a necessity. In the little bit i have done so far I haven’t snapped or stripped any fasteners. I’ve decided the underside looks worse than it is...
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- #9
Thank you all for the replies. I went ahead and bought the vehicle. You guys (and my mechanic) put my mind at ease that the surface rust is nothing to be overly concerned about and will not affect the longevity and performance of the vehicle. The car is super clean otherwise 1 owner older gentleman never smoked in hardly any signs of wear.
@milellie111 I’m still working through baselining (mainly changing all fluids) my ‘13. Every day there’s something new that WOWs me. I was not a fan of AHC but the more I learn and the more I drive it the more I like it. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine.
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It will be a no regrets purchase. Lots of good travels coming up! Here are links to the two things I mentioned.
Amazon product ASIN B003HG48AC
Amazon product ASIN B00B93ZXGS
Amazon product ASIN B003HG48AC
Amazon product ASIN B00B93ZXGS
You got the LX at a great price, but more rust than I would like to see. Just be sure to spend the time (and money) to baseline everything you can before you start driving daily. 90K is a crucial maintenance interval, and it's also the point when you can get the most value when buying used. On mine, for example, I purchased with 90K but spent another 2.5K to baseline everything. Plugs, belts, all fluids, radiator, fuel system. I was going to replace my water pump but my local Toyota guy convinced me to keep it.
When you think about the incredible value you are getting for a 90K+ vehicle it really makes sense to do everything you can to make it new again mechanically. Imagine if the car you purchased went another 3-5 years w/o any attention to the rust. I would predict plenty of rust related annoyances (AHC lines, brake lines, stuck and broken bolts).
Enjoy the new rig!
When you think about the incredible value you are getting for a 90K+ vehicle it really makes sense to do everything you can to make it new again mechanically. Imagine if the car you purchased went another 3-5 years w/o any attention to the rust. I would predict plenty of rust related annoyances (AHC lines, brake lines, stuck and broken bolts).
Enjoy the new rig!
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- #14
Thanks for replies so far. Also, truck seems to be pulling to the right more so on certain roads. Two new Michelin’s were put on by dealer. Other Michelin is a 7 and the rear passenger Michelin is a 5. I tried to fight with them to give me if not two other new tires at least replace the one that is a 5 but they said it passed inspection and won’t cause issues. Said alignment was done not too long ago.
Do LX’s track dead straight or is some pulling normal?
Do LX’s track dead straight or is some pulling normal?
Mine now tracks dead straight. I forget the spec range but mine was within spec but wandered. I had them set it to a real toe-in, not zero. Also make sure both sides have positive camber.
It should drive like it’s on rails.
It should drive like it’s on rails.
I went the POR-15 route with my LC.
As @CJ3Flyer mentioned - I don't begin a project that involves removing a fastener until I have sprayed it with Kroil - which is, in my opinion, the best penetrant out there. I even managed to break loose my KDSS valves with some patience and several applications of Kroil. Other penetrants simply haven't worked on this rig (ie PB Blaster, WD40..... I swear I heard my fasteners laugh at me when I tried those before discovering Kroil.)
As @CJ3Flyer mentioned - I don't begin a project that involves removing a fastener until I have sprayed it with Kroil - which is, in my opinion, the best penetrant out there. I even managed to break loose my KDSS valves with some patience and several applications of Kroil. Other penetrants simply haven't worked on this rig (ie PB Blaster, WD40..... I swear I heard my fasteners laugh at me when I tried those before discovering Kroil.)