Noise for the first minute of start up when cold.

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So I removed the belts. No noise on start up. I didn't order any stock belts before hand to get them in. The ones on there looked ok, put them back on.
When putting on the belts I tensioned them up more then what they were. (Probably about 1/4 of play now.)
With the belts back on, no noise when started. So perhaps it was a slipping belt.
I'll have to wait to it completely cools again to see if the noise is still gone. Or if it was just luck. I also removed the idler pulley, and left it out since felt like I was getting a little noise from it.
 
89325iturbo said:
So I removed the belts. No noise on start up. I didn't order any stock belts before hand to get them in. The ones on there looked ok, put them back on.
When putting on the belts I tensioned them up more then what they were. (Probably about 1/4 of play now.)
With the belts back on, no noise when started. So perhaps it was a slipping belt.
I'll have to wait to it completely cools again to see if the noise is still gone. Or if it was just luck. I also removed the idler pulley, and left it out since felt like I was getting a little noise from it.
Click to expand...
What belts did you use? 80's seem to hate the ribbed ones.
 
Dullyouth said:
Does the sound go away after about one minute when the engine starts to idle down?
Does it sound like this from inside the cab?
Click to expand...

Was this your youtube video or did you find it? I think I have the same problem, and am trying to work through it. Here's a video of my truck - it sounds/looks the same. Notice the voltage go up when it's making the noise. Any advice?

 
taylort232 said:
Was this your youtube video or did you find it? I think I have the same problem, and am trying to work through it. Here's a video of my truck - it sounds/looks the same. Notice the voltage go up when it's making the noise. Any advice?

Click to expand...

That was my video. It ended up being the HB. You may be able the see the HB move in and out a little bit when you rev the engine by hand. Take some caution sticking your head over your pulley/belts if your HB is bad. You don’t what to be in the way if it fully lets loose. (Also you don’t want to be driving around with it slipping. They will cause engine damage under your hood at rpm.) I was able to take my belts off and move the HB a little by hand. I have another video on my channel with the HB out were you can see the full extent of the HB failure. I ended up buying a used one. There are places that will rebuild your HB, I’m not sure how long those last.
 
Dullyouth said:
That was my video. It ended up being the HB. You may be able the see the HB move in and out a little bit when you rev the engine by hand. Take some caution sticking your head over your pulley/belts if your HB is bad. You don’t what to be in the way if it fully lets loose. (Also you don’t want to be driving around with it slipping. They will cause engine damage under your hood at rpm.) I was able to take my belts off and move the HB a little by hand. I have another video on my channel with the HB out were you can see the full extent of the HB failure. I ended up buying a used one. There are places that will rebuild your HB, I’m not sure how long those last.
Click to expand...
Did you watch my video? It sounds and acts exactly like yours was. Wild!
 
Dullyouth said:
That was my video. It ended up being the HB. You may be able the see the HB move in and out a little bit when you rev the engine by hand. Take some caution sticking your head over your pulley/belts if your HB is bad. You don’t what to be in the way if it fully lets loose. (Also you don’t want to be driving around with it slipping. They will cause engine damage under your hood at rpm.) I was able to take my belts off and move the HB a little by hand. I have another video on my channel with the HB out were you can see the full extent of the HB failure. I ended up buying a used one. There are places that will rebuild your HB, I’m not sure how long those last.
Click to expand...
Any idea what size socket bolt takes? Any advice on cracking it?
 
taylort232 said:
Any idea what size socket bolt takes? Any advice on cracking it?
Click to expand...
Before you proceed any further, did you take your belts off and verify the free play in the HB? Really give it some pressure. It shouldn’t move at all if the HB is good.

If you are going to proceed you will need:
30mm 12 6 point socket 3/4” ( try and get the lowest profile one possible, )

3/4 “ breaker bar. ( You will break a 1/2” bar )

300lb or greater torque wrench, also 3/4”. ( I have a digital adapter type )

If you have enough clearance you can do this with your Rad still on. IF you do get a thin sheet of plywood or hardboard to put in between your rad and engine to save on damage to the Rad fins. With the breaker bar tied securely to the underside of the passenger side frame, bump your starter ( also disconnect your coil from the distributor) to break the bolt free. Make sure the socket is on the bolt square. If you have a helper, have them use a 1x4 or something similar to apply some pressure to the back of the breaker bar to keep it in place when you bump the starter. When you put the bolt back on it needs to be torqued to 308lbs. This is important. You can use an electric or pneumatic torque gun to loosen this as well, you just need a lot more room. Also watch out for the little nipple on top of the Rad, don’t break this off while you are work from the top.

Removing the rad, fan etc makes this much easier space wise. I needed the extra space for the digital torque device I bought. Still cover the inside of the AC with the hardboard/plywood. I took this time to flush and change coolant, new thermostat, water pump, oil pump screws and seal, main seal, hoses and clamps. A bunch of maintenance items since you are in that space already. These may not be necessary for you, some might be.

There are a lot of write ups on this forum on this process. Some might have different and or better tips and tricks.

Edit: 6 point socket is better than 12 in this case. Thanks @taylort232 for catching this.
 
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taylort232 said:
Why do you recommend 12 point instead of 6 point?
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lol, sorry I was tired last night. 6 point is the way to go.

Oh, thought of an easier test for your HB. Take a paint pen, or chalk and mark a line from the outside to the inside hub on the face of the HB. When you start the engine the line should drift from each other if it is slipping. This would be an easier visual test.
 
Way off from the original topic but FWIW someone asked:

"Any idea what size socket bolt takes? Any advice on cracking it?"

Been discussed (try some searches), but basically you'll need a
30mm impact rated socket and a 3/4" drive (long) breaker bar. Do not try it with a half inch drive breaker bar, it will break.

First put the socket on the bolt, then put the breaker bar (attached to the socket) up against the right side frame rail. IME you don't have to tie it to the frame rail if you have something else like a floor jack to hold it up there. Then disconnect the coil wire to the distributor, then just quickly bump the ignition key, do not hold it over, just a quick flick should be enough. Then go back and check to see if the bolt is loose. If it doesn't come loose after a couple of tries, then move to the next option.

If the starter method doesn't work there are a couple more options,
one is to make up a crank holding tool (try a search here) then put your 3'-4' long 3/4" drive breaker bar on the bolt, then use a 5' long section of 2" steel pipe (to increase leverage) over your breaker bar, and pull, hard, counterclockwise ie: standing by the right fender pulling toward you. Helps to use a step stool IME.

Search this forum and you tuby to get comfortable with how to
remove a crank pulley bolt, here's one link:

 
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