No Oil Pressure After Oil Pump O Ring and Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement

[togles]

Hey Everyone,

I recently acquired my Land Cruiser and have watched many upon many of videos and read threads etc about this job, so I was quite confident in tacking this. I just completed it earlier today, but when I fired up the truck I got no oil pressure. Note that I removed my radiator for my job, it needed new coolant anyways and it allowed room to use a impact gun to remove the harmonic balancer bolt. So since I was warming up the engine for the coolant burping it ran for a good 5 minutes that way, fired right up after the job and ran fine for that 5 minutes. No oil pressure still. I checked the oil, was about a quart low, so topped it off and after the engine cooled down I started the truck again, letting it come up to temp, still not building oil pressure, even with a rev of the throttle. Not sure how to proceed here, looking for some advice on next steps. I was very precise in doing this job, I took my time and researched and feel like I did it just like everyone else. I am afraid of running the truck too much with the oil pressure gauge reading that low. How long can I run the engine with little to no oil pressure like this? What is this potentially doing to the engine?

 

[jpoole]

Did you properly torque the Harmonic Balancer on reinstall? Low/no oil pressure is a known side effect of an insufficiently torqued HB.

 

[togles]

Hi,

Thank you for the response. I initially zapped it with my impact gun, same as I took it off. Then I used a icon 3ft 3/4" breaker bar with a Quinn digital torque adapter - https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-drive-150-to-750-ft-lb-digital-torque-adapter-58707.html set to 306 pounds, and it really felt like it worked, it beeps when you get close and beeps more solid when you hit your setting. I checked it multiple times. Not saying this is not my issue, I suppose this digital torque adapter could be wrong.

 

[manofthewoods]

Hi,

Thank you for the response. I initially zapped it with my impact gun, same as I took it off. Then I used a icon 3ft 3/4" breaker bar with a Quinn digital torque adapter - https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-drive-150-to-750-ft-lb-digital-torque-adapter-58707.html set to 306 pounds, and it really felt like it worked, it beeps when you get close and beeps more solid when you hit your setting. I checked it multiple times. Not saying this is not my issue, I suppose this digital torque adapter could be wrong.

With that much torque on the HB bolt, you are good.
I'd suspect that the sender and/or gauge aren't working.
I'd find a way to get an old school gauge reading.
As a wild thought. I'm not sure if the job you did requires priming the pump like what is required when doing a complete rebuild???
Best of luck

 

[Fj80oregon]

If you had no oil pressure your motor would have seized by now, check the wires around the sender unit they are fragile. Did you mess with the oil cooler or sender?

 

[togles]

Thank goodness. Where is the sender unit and the oil cooler at?

 

[Fj80oregon]

Thank goodness. Where is the sender unit and the oil cooler at?

Use the google it will answer all your questions and you will learn more than me or mud telling you the easy answer.

 

[togles]

Fair enough. I found this video -

As I mentioned, I removed my radiator to do this job, so while I was in there, I also replaced both of my lower radiator hoses and my upper. I think when I was rooting around in the engine bay with trying to get the new lower hose assembly onto the water neck on the engine I might have disrupted this wire connection. What is pictured below is from the youtube video, but that plugs into the AC compressor? Does that harness going to the AC compressor split off for the oil pressure sender?

 

[Kernal]

"Does that harness going to the AC compressor split off for the oil pressure sender?"

Yes.

Is there any movement at all of the oil pressure needle in the instrument cluster or is it completely dead?

The harness " Wire, Oil Pressure" part number should be 82221-60020 and it has multiple connectors including (for) the oil pressure sender (2) and one for the AC compressor clutch:

Follow the wire harness to the top right in the photo below to just under the front exhaust manifold:

The "Gage Assembly, Oil" (oil pressure sender) is 83520-60040. Note the two connections (blade and button) on the sender (Gage Assy, Oil)

 

[togles]

"Does that harness going to the AC compressor split off for the oil pressure sender?"

Yes.

Is there any movement at all of the oil pressure needle in the instrument cluster or is it completely dead?

The harness " Wire, Oil Pressure" part number should be 82221-60020 and it has multiple connectors including (for) the oil pressure sender (2) and one for the AC compressor clutch:

View attachment 4148156



Follow the wire harness to the top right in the photo below to just under the front exhaust manifold:

View attachment 4148158


The "Gage Assembly, Oil" (oil pressure sender) is 83520-60040. Note the two connections (blade and button) on the sender (Gage Assy, Oil), both need to be connected for the instrument cluster oil pressure needle/gauge to come alive:

View attachment 4148160

"Does that harness going to the AC compressor split off for the oil pressure sender?"

Yes.

Is there any movement at all of the oil pressure needle in the instrument cluster or is it completely dead?

The harness " Wire, Oil Pressure" part number should be 82221-60020 and it has multiple connectors including (for) the oil pressure sender (2) and one for the AC compressor clutch:

View attachment 4148156



Follow the wire harness to the top right in the photo below to just under the front exhaust manifold:

View attachment 4148158


The "Gage Assembly, Oil" (oil pressure sender) is 83520-60040. Note the two connections (blade and button) on the sender (Gage Assy, Oil), both need to be connected for the instrument cluster oil pressure needle/gauge to come alive:

View attachment 4148160

Thank you @Kernal !!

This is definitely my issue

Can you let me know which terminal on the sender to connect the white wire? Is it the outside or inside(center)?

 

[togles]

Ok, I got it!! Yellow sheath with white wire inside it to the center post on the sender. NOTHING attached to the outside spade post(I read this in another post). Its not needed or used.

Crazy that I was messing with the oil pump o ring replacement and ended up with a no oil pressure symptom due to me bumping that wire. That was scary. Glad its working now and I REALLY APPRECIATE everyones help!!

 

[Kernal]

IIRC from prior discussions, the spade connector is for a better ground circuit but the oil pressure gauge/needle may still show a reading in the instrument cluster without it hooked-up because the Oil Gage (sender) is grounded to the block via the threaded port.

One short discussion comparing 60 Series Oil Pressure gauge which does not have the spade ground and the 80 Series which does:

Thread 'No continuity between terminals on oil pressure sender'

Apr 23, 2023

I have a two-terminal oil pressure sender, 83520-60010. Should there be continuity between the two terminals (the central output pole and the ground on the sender housing), or does the circuit only connect above a threshold pressure?

The oil pressure gague was not working in the vehicle, but the wiring was damaged - the braided ground wire from the grey coaxial cable in the wiring harness was missing altogether (and I am rectifying that). Wondering whether to buy a new sender.

Thanks

EO

• Eurasiaoverland
• Replies: 2
• Forum: 60-Series Wagons

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Guessing that the quality of a direct Gage-to-block ground might change depending on the use of thread tape or thread sealants when installing the Pressure Gage (or oxidation between threads??) so think of that little spade connection as a back-up or more reliable ground?? An electron guru (@jonheld) may have a better explanation.

Or if you want to look at it logically, why would Toyota put the spade connector on the Oil Pressure Gage/Sender and a wire for it in the harness if
there wasn't a purpose for it.

 

[togles]

Thanks @Kernal for that explanation, might make sense for me to wire that up afterall