Newbie 40 questions

[yooper]

Finally had the chance to mess with my $300 '73 FJ40 this weekend. Took off the flat tires and put on my FJ62 wheels with road tires. Changed the oil - I found an oil change receipt from 1989 that said about 69,000 miles and the odo says about 70,000 miles, so it looks like she's been sitting for about 15 years! Flushed the fuel tank using the stupid electric fuel pump that some halfwit installed - at least it was convenient for this purpose. Put in a fresh battery and she started right up! Filled up the brake fluid reservoirs and the brakes work! Only she runs like crap. This is my first 40, so some questions. Thanks for any advice.

1. I can only get it to run on full choke or with significant gas pedal. Probably just gummed up carb? Full rebuild or should I just spray a lot of carb cleaner down there?

2. Poor oil pressure - this scares me. The oil pressure needle isn't visible when the engine is off. Running, it gets just barely past the first line on the gauge. Is the gauge or send more likely bad, or do I have oiling problems (stock F engine)? How can I check? The oil I drained out was BLAACK but didn't have any chunks. I'm scared to try running it more until I straighten this out.

3. Clutch slave cylinder is bad. Can I just hit the Napa store or should I get a Toyota part?

3. Is my Cruiser lifted? Here's pics with the FJ62 wheels and 235/75/15 tires. Are these stock springs and shackles? The springs seem to have too much arch in them for being 31 years old. Comments on the rust are unnecessary - I am horrified too, but it was $300!

 

[folsom50]

Shackles are a little long, and those rear springs look like dog sh*t.

As far as the oil pressure, it sounds a little scary, but it could be the sending unit or gauge. If you have a meteric threaded mechanical available, I'd try that and see what it says, before heading out on the freeway.

 

[Robert LaDuke]

Front shackles look stock to me . Looks like extended shacles were used in the rear to compensate for sagging springs.
Does a '73 have an idle solenoid? Might be sticking .

 

[Velocity2]

personally that thing looks good for 300 bucks........my crusier has/had more rust than that!

 

[yooper]

I know not idle solenoid. Time to hit the FSM.

One thing I didn't mention - the throttle return spring was connected to the DS front shock tower for some reason. The rusty wire broke during my first starting attempt. I just wired it to a spot on the air filter bracket. Is this spring supposed to have a specific tension?

So maybe I have just a shackle lift? No clue how it rides - until I get the engine running and the clutch functional, she's sitting in the garage...

thanks for the replies so far. Any specific recommendations for an oil pressure gauge?

The pics are deceiving. The tub is pretty much hopelessly rusted out and the rear quarters are bondo. I'm going to make sure the seats are supported safely but that's it - it's a dirt only farm truck for now.

 

[toddslater]

1. I can only get it to run on full choke or with significant gas pedal. Probably just gummed up carb? Full rebuild or should I just spray a lot of carb cleaner down there?

Rebuild your stock Aisan. Rebuild kits are about $20.

2. Poor oil pressure - this scares me. The oil pressure needle isn't visible when the engine is off. Running, it gets just barely past the first line on the gauge. Is the gauge or send more likely bad, or do I have oiling problems (stock F engine)? How can I check? The oil I drained out was BLAACK but didn't have any chunks. I'm scared to try running it more until I straighten this out.

Could be either...but it sounds more like the gauge...mine is not buried when off. Best way to check is to hook up a mechanical gauge for a looksee.

3. Clutch slave cylinder is bad. Can I just hit the Napa store or should I get a Toyota part?

NAPA etal sells slave cyl rebuild kits very cheap. Pull the slave, hone it and put the new piston and seals from rebuild kit ...its easy and cheap.

3. Is my Cruiser lifted? Here's pics with the FJ62 wheels and 235/75/15 tires. Are these stock springs and shackles? The springs seem to have too much arch in them for being 31 years old. Comments on the rust are unnecessary - I am horrified too, but it was $300!

Front looks stock...rears have longer shackles on and springs look scary as mentioned above.

 

[DocB]

Those rear shackles are good ole boy welder made shackles about 2 inches longer than stock. The fronts are stock, as evidenced by the lenght and the "L" shaped leg on only one end. The springs are stock. Can't tell if they have add a leaves. Added leaves will look different; usually will not be "diamond cut " or tapered at the ends. To keep your costs down (because you got a screamin deal; keep it cheap for now), I recommend re arch/add a leaf/ slightly longer shackle combo. People will try to steer you away from re arch, but if done right can be great. Best re arch is to heat treat each leaf after the re arch. Next, full length second leaves are better than generic short leaves. These measures help the re arch retain its arch. Use pro built shackles 1 to 1.5 inch longer than stock max. Get them from Specter, CCOT, etc. Don't bother with greasables on this keep it cheap rig. Poly bushings work well and are cheap. The above set up will allow you to run 31, 32, or narrow (you have uncut rear fenders) 33 inch tires with no rubbing issues. I love narrow tires on a mildly to moderately built cruiser. They ride better on the road, and off road better in some situations, certainly great for a moderate cruiser. Smaller rigs are great on narrow trails with overhangs and on the road. Parts dont wear out quickly. I recommend 9.5 or 10.5 inch wide tires for the above set up. Also, no power steering needed. Next get all new brake parts (shoes, drums, etc) and tune them properly. Drum brakes will stop a medium tire size well if adjusted right. Spray out the carb/lube all linkages, springs, pivots and it may fall into a rhythm as you drive it. (It's been sitting). Change all fluids often in the near future to "flush" particulates out that may fall in. Concentrate on mechanicals; then on cosmetics if you still have cash. You have a great cruiser that you won't be afraid to drive it like it was built for! Beat up rusty FJ40s look cooler than brand new Jeep Rubicons. I'd rather drive your cruiser than a brand new H2. Throw some deep pile shag carpet in it for a super cool retro touch that chicks and mutt dogs dig. I just set up a cruiser with re arch, white wagon wheels (cheap and good looking) and 31X10.50 BFGs. Rides and handles like a dream; climbed some impressive hills with it. Here's your cruiser with re arch, 31s, white wagons, and new paint. The owner lady cried when she drove it it was so nice; she had had trouble for 18 months driving it with larger mud tires and was going to sell it; now she'll keep it forever!

 

[yooper]

Cool, it's even the same color!

Thanks for the replies everyone. I think I'll run some solvents through it and see if I can get it to clean up and smooth out. Prolly put in some synthetic oil and do the SeaFoam thing.

I'll mess with the springs only if I'm unhappy with how they function or something scary is happening. This truck won't likely ever see more than 10mph - it's a work truck at my camp property. If a spring breaks or something I'll be stuck on my own property and half a mile from the cabin at the most. Just trying to figure out what tires to put on - prolly go with 32 x 9.5 Swampers.

Thinking about dropping the pan, cleaning it out, checking the appearance of the parts under there, and cleaning the pickup screen. Might do the screwdriver blade on a drill trick to see if I can get the pressure up before I run the engine again.

The most paint job this one gets is rattle can after the rust is repaired. Probably cut the rockers out and replace with homemade sliders, and repair the holes in the floor with new steel if I can find something solid to weld to.

Also gotta figure out if the mechanical fuel pump works...

 

[IDave]

Synthetic oil may reveal leaks you didn't know you had, Sean. You may wanna "stick" with dino....

 

[yooper]

Synthetic oil may reveal leaks you didn't know you had, Sean. You may wanna "stick" with dino....

Yeah, I was just thinking about that. I've never got a straight story about the leaks with synth problem. If it's because the synth oil cleans out the nooks and crannies and removes the gunk that was sealing a leak, then it's a problem, but I've also read that the problem is due to seals that tend to swell with dino but not synth, so if I switched back to dino after a while they should seal up again. I've also read that the problem has been solved with new additives to modern synth oil that treats the seals.

I will say that I haven't been able to create any leaks personally with synthetic oil, in three Toyota engines and one BMW engine that I've tried it with. All were older engines with at least 130K on them, varying from 14 to 30 years of age.

 

[IDave]

Maybe. I've done it, though!

 

[red dirt squirt]

i did it.....love that exhaust hanger!

 

[yooper]

i did it.....love that exhaust hanger!

Did that custom job myself - that's high quality 14 gauge solid electric wire. I'm waiting on the plastic insulation to melt and weld it all together! I had to wire it up just to change the wheels. The exhaust was laying on top of the axle. There is a nice dent in the shock from it. Pretty stupid exhaust routing - there is no way not to pinch it on compression. I'm sure I'll be cutting the entire exhaust system out and replacing it eventually.

I think I'll forego the synth oil just to be safe. I can do three changes of dino oil for the same cost...

 

[CruisinGA]

Before you start dumpin money in it. ($20 is dumpin money in a $300 cruiser) -try the cheap stuff.

Run a can of carb cleaner through and around that carb, check points, replace cap and rotor, check timing. Once it is running well enough, run about a 1/2 quart of 50/50 brake fluid/water through it while running (slowly) and that will help clean out the motor.

Don't know if you did, but drain and refill the diffs, tranny and transfer. There is no telling what may be in there. (i've found ATF in a 4spd before)

Go ahead and shoot some grease in the steering joints, center arm, and u-joints.

Have fun with it ! Thats a great $300 truck to dick around with!

 

[yooper]

Have you actually done the brake fluid/water thing? Just pour it down the carb, same as a SeaFoam treatment? Sounds pretty redneck to me!

I will inspect the cap and rotor this weekend, and replace if they look worn.

Crap, I forgot about points. I hate points. Good thing I've got a dwell meter still...

thanks!

 

[Ian Rogers]

just use SeaFoam from a NAPA it works and is not some old wives tale. just my thoughts