new trouble

[rcb]

i was driving down the road today and i new problem started. i started lacking power and the engine wanted to shut off. needless to say i made it to the gas station and got a ride home and got to try out the new tow bar.

but it will idle fine and respond to throttle fine while in neutral. then, i will start out fine but then want to cut off. i tried a new dist. cap. but that changed nothing. iginition is stock. f engine. stock carb.

 

[toddslater]

Could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter. Check the basics, I'd start on the fuel side first. If filter, fuel pump, little screen at the carb inlet, float needle and seat, are all clean and working properly, then check the ign system. What year ? (ie. point, condensor, ballast resistor set up).

 

[73lndcrsr]

I agree, I had a similar issue that ended up being a bad fuel pump.

 

[rcb]

it is a 73. it has a fuel filter maybe a month old, fresh carb rebuild. the rotor, cap, condensor and points were replaced about 2 months ago. i can rev it up while idling with no problem. but i'll check all the possibilities.

 

[73lndcrsr]

Pull the feed line to the carb and point it into a cup or something. Have someone turn the engine over, should get a nice strong stream of fuel. If not, you have a weak pump.

Mine was just not strong enough to keep up with a load on the engine. Idling was just fine for me too.

I did have an electric pump, but have since put another mech on.

If you are still running the mech pump, check your oil to see if it smells like gas. Coule be the diaphram has a leak.

 

[lone gunman]

you might also want to try pulling the sending unit out of the gas tank and looking inside, i had the same problem but it was rust in the tank being sucked into the pick up tube and blocking off flow. i removed the tank and used the POR-15 tank sealer kit on it and have not had any problems since! GOOD LUCK

 

[rcb]

i checked the fuel filter and screen and getting good flow out of the fuel pump. i think it's an ignition problem. what is a good iginition upgrade? i would like to get rid of the points and/or condensor and go electronic.

 

[toddslater]

Before I would totally dismiss fuel related woes, I'd pick up an inexpensive inline fuel pressure gauge from someone like Summit or Jegs. Just to verify supply pressure is adequate. I upgraded to full electronic out of an 85 FJ60. I am not sure which years are best...something like 82 to 87, but I am sure others will chime in or it's probably in the tech links link above. There is also a GM Hei conversion...but I opted to keep it all toyota. Other than that if your positive it's not fuel related, and while your looking for a full electronic set up, double check the condensor sometimes new ones are shiite, then the ballast resistor, and finally the coil. To check the ballast resistor simply by-pass it and supply 12v directly to the coil. If it runs well...voila you've found your problem. However, do not run it like this for more than a day...ish, as it will tend to use up your points in a hurry.

 

[CruisinGA]

Once you sort out your problem (probably best to do that first), I would consider the upgrade Todd suggests.

Take the ignition system out of an 81-87 2F, plus the side panel (pushrod cover) (you can modify your old one with a hammer). Swap you coil and ballast resistor with the new coil and ignitor, and your old distributor with the new one. The pushrod cover has a dent in it that allows the later big-cap distributor to fit. Your old plug wires will work. Be forewarned, I had a LOT of trouble getting the new distributor to mesh with the cam the first time. Now it slips in and out easily.

Voila, you now have waterproof, ball bearing, vacuum advance, fully electronic, all Toyota ignition.

Similar to HEI, only so much better. Cost me $125 total, bought parts from user on this board.