- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,504
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
hey you know what I think that axle was a factory elocker if so that might no be a bad price
Build new to ih8mud buggy
- Thread starter muddyblzr
- Start date
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hey you know what I think that axle was a factory elocker if so that might no be a bad price
- Thread starter
- #42
ahh yeah he didnt say. it was in that big ass junkyard behind them. i know it had abs and probably and e-locker he was calling it diff lock. i would of tried to get just the axle no third but i dont think they are that type of junkyard.
o well
does anyone know if there are full float conversion kits?
o well
does anyone know if there are full float conversion kits?
- Thread starter
- #44
naw i've deceided im gonna go with a diamond axle setup with a fj80 third and get a new carrier and swap in 35 spline side gears so i can run 35 spline dana 60 full float shafts. that should be bullet proof.
so far the cheapest i've found for a fj80 axle is 500$ no third and i'd have to have it shipped. i'll stick with what i got and have my stockers heat treated and cryoed
so far the cheapest i've found for a fj80 axle is 500$ no third and i'd have to have it shipped. i'll stick with what i got and have my stockers heat treated and cryoed
- Thread starter
- #45
alright well wheeled it some but i've never liked how the 4 link acted. lots of flex steer, wheel hop. all that stuff. and the station wagon tube never was something i needed to i deceided to cut back
after weighting it today it showed up at
very pleased with those numbers. it was actually 2885 but i must of sneezed on it or something and when i looked down again it was that. 1 lbs floating around no biggie
then i pulled the airshocks
and then i deceided that i needed a new sawzall at the hf unit was probably the worst tool i've ever owned
so the dewalt did this
gonna cut off some more and then solid mount the suspension and take it to my buddies shop and were going to re-do the rear tube work and put on new links. and im going to do all the welding at home and finish it. later this year i'll be putting in prp seats, fixing the brakes soon and re-working the pedals and steering
after weighting it today it showed up at
very pleased with those numbers. it was actually 2885 but i must of sneezed on it or something and when i looked down again it was that. 1 lbs floating around no biggie
then i pulled the airshocks
and then i deceided that i needed a new sawzall at the hf unit was probably the worst tool i've ever owned
so the dewalt did this
gonna cut off some more and then solid mount the suspension and take it to my buddies shop and were going to re-do the rear tube work and put on new links. and im going to do all the welding at home and finish it. later this year i'll be putting in prp seats, fixing the brakes soon and re-working the pedals and steering
looks killer man! I like how you are just fixing and refining things as you wheel it and feel it out! That is for sure the best way to go about it. Enjoy your purchase and tweak on the go!
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,504
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
SWEET you goin two seater with storage now ???
- Thread starter
- #50
yeah thats been the plan. i took the back seats out almost immediately when i got it home originally.
plan is a pickup style tube bed. and cutting off as much frame as i can. might shorter the wheelbase a couple inches and try and make up for it by pushing the front axle a couple inches forward
i have plans for the front but that will come later on
plan is a pickup style tube bed. and cutting off as much frame as i can. might shorter the wheelbase a couple inches and try and make up for it by pushing the front axle a couple inches forward
i have plans for the front but that will come later on
I like that rig.
I had the same problem as you as a crappy welded diff broke
and then I did as you and welded the hell out of it, but then the carrier broke because of the stress the heat put on it Now I put a plate inside the spider gears and just weld the gears to it.
Ive seen two welded-to-carrier diff's carriers break. They were 4cyl 8" chunks so maybe you will be alright.
one was in Texas too . . . . .
A 35spline Diamond would be
for sure. The Raisn has one and I dont think he has had any trouble with a 4.7L and 42-44"s 
and rock racing
It looks like Ill be moving North of Ft Worth in October for 10-11 months so well have to get topgether and go break some parts
I had the same problem as you as a crappy welded diff broke
and then I did as you and welded the hell out of it, but then the carrier broke because of the stress the heat put on it Now I put a plate inside the spider gears and just weld the gears to it.Ive seen two welded-to-carrier diff's carriers break. They were 4cyl 8" chunks so maybe you will be alright.
one was in Texas too . . . . .
A 35spline Diamond would be
for sure. The Raisn has one and I dont think he has had any trouble with a 4.7L and 42-44"s and rock racingIt looks like Ill be moving North of Ft Worth in October for 10-11 months so well have to get topgether and go break some parts
This guy still had the whole rear/ just 3rd a few months ago???? $150??
toy stuff (cases, axles 3rds) - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
toy stuff (cases, axles 3rds) - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
- Thread starter
- #54
if its a 91 that should be semi float just like what i have.
regardless i've decieded to keep what i got and if it breaks i have a sunray built 9" housing that will take it spot.
whenever you get to texas hit me up and we'll wheel you're so close to clayton im jealous, but i don't like the dallas area.
we have alot of new parks opening down here you'll have to come check out
here's the progress
so far all thats left that we can do is brace the tube wehre it intersects the frame, finish some bracing and the link truss.
im waiting on brackets right now and some link material which sucks poor planning on my part, but jk and chris are great to work with and are patient.
i gotta hand it to them they do amazing work
here's some pics
im learning alot about notching and tube fitment just watching chris do it.
if my brackets and tube show up early on friday i should have it done friday but it's looking like monday is the day i'll get done
regardless i've decieded to keep what i got and if it breaks i have a sunray built 9" housing that will take it spot.
whenever you get to texas hit me up and we'll wheel you're so close to clayton im jealous, but i don't like the dallas area.
we have alot of new parks opening down here you'll have to come check out
here's the progress
so far all thats left that we can do is brace the tube wehre it intersects the frame, finish some bracing and the link truss.
im waiting on brackets right now and some link material which sucks poor planning on my part, but jk and chris are great to work with and are patient.
i gotta hand it to them they do amazing work
here's some pics
im learning alot about notching and tube fitment just watching chris do it.
if my brackets and tube show up early on friday i should have it done friday but it's looking like monday is the day i'll get done
- Thread starter
- #55
had a short day today. gonna start back on it fresh monday. parts aren't showing up till late friday so were gonna hit it hard monday and knock it all out.
got the link truss done just need to weld it all out.
got the link truss done just need to weld it all out.
- Thread starter
- #56
here's a couple from this morning.
still have to brace the link crossmember and upper link mounts. and weld all the suspension out and mount shocks
ride height
link crossmember is 1.75x.250" dom and is gonna be braced from the lower link moutns to the frame.
we tossed the links into the calculator and with adjusting the uppers got between 68% and 99%. it will probably stay in the 2nd lowest hold most of the time around 88%
still have to brace the link crossmember and upper link mounts. and weld all the suspension out and mount shocks
ride height
link crossmember is 1.75x.250" dom and is gonna be braced from the lower link moutns to the frame.
we tossed the links into the calculator and with adjusting the uppers got between 68% and 99%. it will probably stay in the 2nd lowest hold most of the time around 88%
- Thread starter
- #58
im gonna use these for the uppers
and just some tabs for the lowers. at full compression my uppers hit one of the crosstubes so im gonna have to raise the moutns a little
right now about 3/8" of clearance
and just some tabs for the lowers. at full compression my uppers hit one of the crosstubes so im gonna have to raise the moutns a little
right now about 3/8" of clearance
- Thread starter
- #59
here's what i've been up to lately
waiting on new shock mounts but this is where they will sit
full droop
full bump
flexed
and got my new master cylinder today
and figured out my propane tank and cooler and toolbox are gonna go. i can also fit two tank parallel for the long trips
waiting on new shock mounts but this is where they will sit
full droop
full bump
flexed
and got my new master cylinder today
and figured out my propane tank and cooler and toolbox are gonna go. i can also fit two tank parallel for the long trips
- Thread starter
- #60
damn forgot to update this thing
it's almost done just gotta cut down the driveshaft, paint it secure the wiring and it's ready for a shakedown run
tried to flex it out today but the ramp was too small
it's almost done just gotta cut down the driveshaft, paint it secure the wiring and it's ready for a shakedown run
tried to flex it out today but the ramp was too small