New member .. need help (1 Viewer)

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Thanks all for your responses.
Julian Stead, the fan clutch is new less than week.
I did that test for clutch but didn't see any difference while spinning the fan. Reall it's strange.
I gave up with car.
 
Does your fan roar when hot, mine is very evident when it is engaged, you would know if it is working properly. Maybe that is the strange thing, that your fan still isn't engaging even with a new clutch. I certainly would confirm this as this is the most obvious issue your having.
 
Do you have proper coolant mixture? I'd use 60 Distilled water and 40 coolant (ethane-1,2-diol). If one used more coolant as many mechanics do in most other countries without knowing science, this is a common problem.
 
Welcome Ismail.I'm based in Abu Dhabi and as you say gets very hot but still yours is to high.I have Lx 470 with the v8 my temperature sits on quarter with peake heat and air conditioning on.I agree with you very hard to find a competent mechanic here.If I'm on idle long enough my fan kicks in right away.I would check thermostat and waterpump again.How many bottles of red Toyota coolant did you put in.
 
Dannyboy I'm also in AD.
Toyota coolant water has 3.5L, and added normal water.

Thermostat and water pump are new.
 
Dannyboy I'm also in AD.
Toyota coolant water has 3.5L, and added normal water.

Thermostat and water pump are new.

Nice to hear another member locally. Yeah 3.5 litres is more then enough coolant.What's the history of the car did this problem arise recently or after any changes you made.
 
Do you keep your AC on full speed at all times? And the temperature is set to 18 C setting (65 Fahrenheit)?
 
Danny, to be honest I don't have the car history. I bought it on Apr. After using it I've noticed this problem.

Nissanh, Yes AC temps on 18 (you have to mate, it's soo hot here). Sometimes I put the AC on full speed, not always. But I don't think this should affect the engine temps. Cause it's only the internal AC fan that rotate fast or slow.
 
Guys,, is there any way to test: Radiator, Condenser & engine head/head gasket ??

What if I replace mine with V8 radiator ?? It's bigger that V6 radiator. Do you think that the bigger radiator result better cooling system ?? (New one will cost $400)

One of the mechanics told me that if the condenser contains dirts or some of its ducts are blocked, then it will be hot,, which will cause hot air flow. What do you think ??
(Will cost $400)

What about engine head/gasket, how can I check
 
What about engine head/gasket,, how can I check it?? without open the head.
(Head works and new gasket ..etc, will cost approx $550)
 
If you like to read and understand the concept, please read below (A). If you simply want to find an answer, set your AC to 24 or 25 Celsius and have the blower fan max in first 6-7 minutes and then switch it to 3 or 2. I know it is hot, but this is the only way to solve your issue without spending $$$. A big radiator will help but try what I suggested, it is free.


(A)
Here is how the AC works.
The temperature at the evaporator (located behind the glove box) sends a signal to the AC compressor to turn off when the evaporator reaches the set temperature (in your case 18 degrees Celsius).
If you keep the blower fan at max, you don't let the evaporator to reach the set temperature to send a signal to turn off the AC compressor. As a result, the AC compressor will run at all times and will continue to pump hot and compressed freon to the AC condenser (located in front of the radiator). The hot air removed at the ac condenser now reaches the radiator but due to the air been hot (about 80 C) or even more, your radiator won't cool the coolant at its optimal rate.
 
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You still haven't said if the fan roars when it gets upto these high temps, just because you swapped it, it still needs to be tested. Was the new fan clutch OEM?. My checks would be fan, air flow through radiator and condenser, coolant flow as in thermostat, water pump or clogged system, coolant mixture, mixed correctly for your enviroment. Then I would move to the air con as in getting it regassed with a long evap to dry the system, then check to see if the compressor is overloading the engine. One thing to remember though, is that your engine isn't overheating just that your gauge gets higher than you would like, it doesn't go upto the red and the radiator cap hasn't dumped pressure yet, your air con should cut out to protect the engine if extreme temps are reached so it shouldn't overheat just by your air con being on. I wouldn't spend any more money, just do the checks you can. If you don't find anything and your still unhappy then take it to a dealership or Landcruiser specialist, throwing condensers, or radiators on a car just because the engine temp reaches 105C is overkill as 105 is still in the normal range, high but acceptable.
 
How sure about this statement "your air con should cut out to protect the engine if extreme temps are reached so it shouldn't overheat just by your air con being on"

If the high side pressure exceeds the max limit, then the AC compressor will be disengaged.
 
How sure about this statement "your air con should cut out to protect the engine if extreme temps are reached so it shouldn't overheat just by your air con being on"

If the high side pressure exceeds the max limit, then the AC compressor will be disengaged.

From 2006 LX EWD, here are the conditions that could cause the compressor to be "turned off":
upload_2017-8-15_0-0-13.png
 
Thank you for the information. I did not know that. Hope my 2000 is acting the same as a 06.
 
Thank you for the information. I did not know that. Hope my 2000 is acting the same as a 06.

I'm pretty sure it does, but I'll confirm in the 2000 LC FSM when I get home.
 
I'm pretty sure it does, but I'll confirm in the 2000 LC FSM when I get home.

Yes, the 2000 LC EWD has the same notes.
 
Thanks!
What is EWD?
 

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