need more pickup help...something might've gone

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Joined
Jan 30, 2003
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Location
windy wyoming
the rig...87 pickup, 22r carbed motor, w56 w/ top shift tranny from the junkyard, in the last five months put on new cap/rotor/plug/wires/carb rebuild, 161,000miles...dont' think motors ever been touched. compression's never been tested, but i have a very slight grade in my driveway and the only gears that will hold the rig are first and reverse.

driving home tonight, bad, bad, nasty a$$ bad rainstorm. fighting the heavy water on the road the entire way on the highway, pounding rain, can't see, wouldn't break 50mph on the highway and even at that, i couldn't really see.

exit in my town, now it's just a steady rain. make it a few blocks all of the sudden...vehicle is suddenly slowing down fast (feels like when you downshift, but no rpm change, no popping/banging/clunking sounds (nothing sound wise). pop it into neutral as i'm coasting and motor dies instantly. 2nd gear pop the clutch, same struggle to roll, giving it gas does nothing. do this a couple of times same thing. pull off, motor dies instantly. try to start it, and it cranks good, but won't fire. while waiting for treeroot to come tow me home, check under hood, everything is dry as a bone. try to start it a couple of times. shudders hard (much harder than normal) while cranking.

treeroot shows up, check under hood with official flashlight instead of by touch and the light of lightening. he confirms...dry as a bone, no water anywhere under hood, or in air filter housing. try to start it with him watching, no hard shutters as before, but won't start (fuel or spark issues are most apparent). he gets in truck to tow me home, so wasn't around when i tried again...hard shutter again.

any ideas? timing chain? i'll let it sit until tomorrow night in hopes that it is water related, then check oil and look for anything out of the ordinary and give it a shot with starting fluid, but what do you pickup gurus think?
 
I had a sort of similar problem with my old 86 22R turned out to be the wires that go into the carb were unplugged.

It would not stay running with out gas, but always started back up with little trouble. (if I remember right, it's been 4 years maybe...)

Check all the normal stuff, spark, timing, fuel in the carb and so forth. Distributor could have come loose and turned so far it won't run..... Let us know what you find.
 
no. filled up about a week ago. been daily driving it.

latest news is, don't think it's fuel. dumped a ton of starting fluid in carb and cranked...no start.

is forward most cylinder #1? and where should the rotor point when tdc?
 
I assume you are asking those questions based on a very bad feeling it might be the chain. Just remove the valve cover-takes minutes. That will tell you for sure if the chain "jumped" or is plain broke.
 
Jukelemon said:
I assume you are asking those questions based on a very bad feeling it might be the chain. Just remove the valve cover-takes minutes. That will tell you for sure if the chain "jumped" or is plain broke.
you're the only one who's said it ony takes minutes. everyone else says it's a a pita. that's why i'm hoping there's something else that's simple .
 
A PITA? I am not sure how anyone can say that. I can have mine off, after being run, ready to adjust valves in under 10 minutes. Unless your engine's plumbing is way different than my 92 22re, I cannot see how it could be a PITA? But maybe they are that different????
 
Ah, I see you a carbed 87...how did that happen? i thought all of them were efi after 86?? Anyway, that could be why it takes a bit longer. I do not know
 
Jukelemon said:
Ah, I see you a carbed 87...how did that happen? i thought all of them were efi after 86?? Anyway, that could be why it takes a bit longer. I do not know
runners and sr5's were,but not the cheapo trucks according to cdan.
 
You can unbolt and flip the air filter housing over to the pass side without unhooking too many of the vac lines. It's not too bad, just mark anything you have to unhook. With practice it can be a 10 minute job. Like stated above.
 
i dont' see how it can be 10 minutes:confused: . bolt in head under valve cover (under air cleaner), two bolts in oil pan (behind skid plate), pull fan clutch etc, pull lower pulleys, pull big bolt in water pump (it's my understanding that you can pull cover without competely pulling the water pump), all the bolts on the cover, just to access the geartrain.

am i planning on more than is required? are you pulling the radiator to get at everything? how easy is it to pull the front cover without damaging the head and pan gaskets? does it pull straight out, or do i have to angle it somehow?


it's definitely timing...crank turned quite a bit before rotor budged.
 
Swap to EFI. You'll be thankful in the end

Seriously, on a carb 22R check the basics.

Spark?

Fuel?

Air?

sounds like one of the three are ok.

Pull the fuel line and the coil wire, then crank. Got fuel?

If so, its about spark then. re-attach coil wire. Pull a plug attached to the wire. ground to the block. Crank over (make sure treeroot is holding this). Got spark? You'll know from the cursing from Mike.
 
foxfab said:
If so, its about spark then. re-attach coil wire. Pull a plug attached to the wire. ground to the block. Crank over (make sure treeroot is holding this). Got spark? You'll know from the cursing from Mike.
already tried to get him to do that...he was pretty sure on his "no" answer :D

turned the crank and the rotor hesitated for quite a while before moving. so i'm positive it's the timing chain. 161k, guess it's time.
 
CJF said:
"What we have here is a failure to communicate." :D

He's just saying you should take 10 minutes to pull off the VALVE COVER and look at the timing chain.

Curtis
Funny.

Yes, that is what I mean. You want to diagnose the chain not replace ii...right? If it has snapped, then it will be extremely clear when you remove the valve cover.

Sorry, I should have been more clear.
 
valve cover and 10 minutes makes much more sense...

chains not broken , but it appears to have some bad teeth .

got almost everything apart, just need to pull the rear bypass hose and the cover should be ready to come off
 
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