Need a power steering/hydraulic winch upgrade! (yes, I've searched already)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

whereischadjones

whereischadjones

10 Year
Joined
Nov 18, 2012
Threads
56
Messages
247
Location
Rocklin, CA
Problem: Best/easiest/least expensive way to have good power steering and hydraulic winch function.

Options I know of:

1-Rebuild power steering pump and gearbox, replace all seals and hoses and continue with stock power steering running the winch.

2-Upgrade power steering system with an aftermarket cooler, larger reservoir and other items I don't know about and use this to power winch.

3-Convert back to stock after rebuilding everything and add a separate hydraulic pump to run winch.


History: I didn't notice any power steering problems until after I added a Milemarker hydraulic winch. There was a very slow leak from near the winch that I am assuming was an o-ring issue and occasional volcano-ing under winching or shutoff. Yesterday, got around to pulling the whole winch out to try and benchtest/fix it and in the meantime, simply bypassed the winch by hooking the extended ps lines to each other. Of course, now there seems to be another problem. The PS fluid is not volcano-ing out, but is so aerated it looks like strawberry smoothie, so I must have an air sucking leak somewhere. Could be any of the 19 year old power steering components, though.


Pertinent Info:

1-I am not a very good mechanic, MAYBE a 2 banana based on the 4 banana rating system here, but I did once get to meet Jose Cardona and shook his hand...that has to count for something, right?!

2-I am very good at paying others to rebuild things and then reinstalling them as best I can. (I think someone near Sacramento is known for rebuilding power steering pumps...?)

3-I read a post by NLXTACY that he was adding a hydraulic winch but his system looked complicated and expensive (and I had no idea what some of it was.) I will follow up with him.

Feel free to point out anything I've missed or flaws in theory.

Thank you for your expertise and time.
 
whereischadjones said:
1-Rebuild power steering pump and gearbox, replace all seals and hoses and continue with stock power steering running the winch.
Click to expand...

Its a good idea, while you have gear box being rebuilt (ported for those who haven't yet) to either get a new pump or rebuild your old pump and have them port matched at the same time. Good for reducing even minor bottle-necking.

whereischadjones said:
2-Upgrade power steering system with an aftermarket cooler, larger reservoir and other items I don't know about and use this to power winch.
Click to expand...

That's really it. The paperclip would be replaced by a Derale cooler or something similar. This increases the capacity by at least a quart. The reservoir I went with an Appleton unit that has a larger reservoir, cooling fins and uses the standard OEM oil filter as a power steering filter. Otherwise CHANGE out the hoses!

whereischadjones said:
3-Convert back to stock after rebuilding everything and add a separate hydraulic pump to run winch.
Click to expand...

I don't think this is necessary.

whereischadjones said:
History: I didn't notice any power steering problems until after I added a Milemarker hydraulic winch.
Click to expand...

Thats because the winch requires nearly the full hydraulic pressure the pump can make, which I think is around 1400psi.

whereischadjones said:
There was a very slow leak from near the winch that I am assuming was an o-ring issue and occasional volcano-ing under winching or shutoff. Yesterday, got around to pulling the whole winch out to try and benchtest/fix it and in the meantime, simply bypassed the winch by hooking the extended ps lines to each other. Of course, now there seems to be another problem. The PS fluid is not volcano-ing out, but is so aerated it looks like strawberry smoothie, so I must have an air sucking leak somewhere. Could be any of the 19 year old power steering components, though.
Click to expand...

Air is being let in on the non-pressure side. Bad o-rings can make a mess of things, usually because they were pinched on install.

whereischadjones said:
3-I read a post by NLXTACY that he was adding a hydraulic winch but his system looked complicated and expensive (and I had no idea what some of it was.) I will follow up with him.
Click to expand...

I haven't even done mine because I am still undecided on a few things. But I didn't think it was all that complicated. It just meant being committed to see every step through. I'm not there yet.
 
I'm getting close to adding a winch. Thanks for the heads up on all this. Time to start searching.

Also. If you needed a more powerful pump, wasnt the 1FZ a forklift motor? Probably the bigger gear driven pump off a forklift motor would make more psi.
 
NLXTACY said:
Its a good idea, while you have gear box being rebuilt (ported for those who haven't yet) to either get a new pump or rebuild your old pump and have them port matched at the same time. Good for reducing even minor bottle-necking.
Click to expand...

According to Google, port matching is either matching a pump's output to the specific volume required, OR lining up components and tubing as straight as possible to avoid cavitation. I will use search-foo on this site to learn more about this and who could do it in the greater Sacramento area.

NLXTACY said:
That's really it. The paperclip would be replaced by a Derale cooler or something similar. This increases the capacity by at least a quart. The reservoir I went with an Appleton unit that has a larger reservoir, cooling fins and uses the standard OEM oil filter as a power steering filter. Otherwise CHANGE out the hoses!
Click to expand...

I know you said you have not started this project, but do you happen to know the part numbers of the items you have purchased? Thanks! I will search again to see if anyone has done this mod here.
 
Update: today l tore everything out again and found some low pressure hoses leaking. The biggest leak was coming from the winch itself so ordered new seals and o rings from mile marker. Thinking about adding a larger reservoir and derale cooler while in there.
 
Oops! Derale cooler idea blatantly stolen from NLXTACY. But now I'm looking at stealing PHILDOH's bigger cooler (he's running a Hayden).
 
whereischadjones said:
Oops! Derale cooler idea blatantly stolen from NLXTACY. But now I'm looking at stealing PHILDOH's bigger cooler (he's running a Hayden).
Click to expand...

Do you have a pic or link to this ? I have a smaller derale unit I've debated on installing. I would like to see what others are running.
 
whereischadjones said:
Derale 13262 ...
Click to expand...

Our experience with this type of cooler. They tend to trap air, making bleeding difficult. Even with the output hose on the top fitting, have had to unbolt and hang vertically to get all of the air out. If you wheel, when the rig is stood up, the system can suck air. With a large, chamber type cooler like this, can hold an air bubble, displacing fluid, overflowing the reservoir, once back to flat, most of the air worked out, sometimes have to add fluid.

The next point, the fluid needs to get to operating temp, especially in cool weather how much cooling is needed? In our experience, not much, in all but the hottest weather, the stock paper clip works fine.

Our cooler of choice is small factory coolers harvested at the pick and pull. Coolers that flow well, flush everything through. From the derale line would pick something more like this: Amazon.com: Derale 13200 Power Steering Cooler Kit: Automotive
 
@Tools R Us thanks for the info. Do you prefer the barbed fittings? I'm also running a hydraulic winch and sometimes go to hot places...do you think that Derale 13200 would be enough?

Thanks
 
whereischadjones said:
@Tools R Us thanks for the info. Do you prefer the barbed fittings? I'm also running a hydraulic winch and sometimes go to hot places...do you think that Derale 13200 would be enough?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Likely, I just picked that example off of the screen, it needs to have 3/8" - 10mm hose fittings.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom