Name That Part!

[El Cazador]

O.K., the area, and fortunately the only area really, that concerns me on this '74 body is pictured below. You can see where a PO went bondo here and I'd like to get rid of it if possible. Can I remove metal in this area and replace? I've never worked on auto body before but I'm a pretty good mig welder and I have decent experience on small ga. stuff. I looked at it from underneath and while it looks rusty, still pretty solid. I'm far from an expert in making those kinds of evaluations though.
I did a search but didn't find anything specific for that area, though I could be using incorrect search terms. I'm just looking for some suggestions on how to proceed. Gracias!
Vic
Redlands, CA.

 

[e rock]

That 'area' is known as the rear channel. It's a VERY common area for rust-through. If you look at any of the body panel suppliers' websites, they'll have reproduction pieces and that'll make it easier to understand what you're looking at. There's a "C" channel piece that's structurally the backbone of the rear of the tub, then the body sheetmetal over that.

All that said, yours doesn't look that bad...

I'm not into making mine "OEM-correct", so I replaced my rear channel with some 2" square tubing that I notched for the body mounts and some thick-guage flat steel for the fender support pieces on the ends. I replaced the body metal with some flat pieces of 16ga cobbled together poorly.

 

[65swb45]

Is this a trick question from a newb?

You've said all along that you've got a 74 cruiser, right?

You brought me a 74 Cali-spec carb to rebuild, right?

74 FJ40s came with the three colored, rectangular taillights, right?

Pics show rear frame crossmember and sheetmetal set up for round turn signals.

[edit: btw, your carb is done.]

 

[El Cazador]

Good eye, Mark. You're right, and now I think I understand the weird steering box situation.
The body has a July 1974 VIN plate on it. The frame, as I discovered only last Sunday, has a late 1971 or early 1972 VIN number. Voila! I'm still in the process of sorting out the registration, but thank God I have the contacts in DMV and CHP to get it done.
I remain an confirmed optomist.
Vic

 

[Degnol]

I'm not into making mine "OEM-correct", so I replaced my rear channel with some 2" square tubing QUOTE]


So did I. Hope I am long-dead before that part rusts out. I used heavy wall.




Ed

 

[llih]

Is there a hole behind the bondo? It maybe that the damage is not that extensive. Has this been a Ca cruiser it's entire life? Scrape out /grind the bondo and check it out. If the metal is in good shape with only minimal rust try pounding out the dings. Remove as much rust as possible and use either por or zero rust. Some classic car restorers use a combo of alum tape and glass to fill non structural damaged panels that are impossible or too expensive to replace. There are also better fillers than bondo. Metal to Metal is great and is water proof. It's also much more expensive.

 

[72FJ40LandCruiser]

Is there a hole behind the bondo? It maybe that the damage is not that extensive. Has this been a Ca cruiser it's entire life? Scrape out /grind the bondo and check it out. If the metal is in good shape with only minimal rust try pounding out the dings. Remove as much rust as possible and use either por or zero rust. Some classic car restorers use a combo of alum tape and glass to fill non structural damaged panels that are impossible or too expensive to replace. There are also better fillers than bondo. Metal to Metal is great and is water proof. It's also much more expensive.

:GASP!!!: Aluminum tape and fiberglass is NOT the correct way to repair rust. If you know of repair shops who are doing that.... RUN! To really "restore" a car you must take it back to it's original beauty and I don't think any cars had aluminum tape and fiberglass from the factory.

I once thought about repairing my rust with fiberglass because I don't have access to my welder where I live right now. It would only be temporary until I can do it right but then I came to my senses.

 

[llih]

Oh Gasp
Not everyone has an unlimited budget, skills or access to a shop full of tools. There are many cars with contours that would be hard to replicate without extensive tools and time. You can not always cut a flat piece of metal and weld it in. Replacement parts are sometimes not an option. There are shops that use the tape and glass technique with success. It is done properly and makes a long lasting repair. It is of course a repair and not a full blown restoration. I was in no way suggesting that tape and glass was equal to replacing a part or cutting and welding. It does have its place and if done correctly will last a very long time. The same is true for the better body fillers.