My "We have Heritage Edition at home" DIY modifications

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Joined
Sep 24, 2019
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Location
Tennessee
Was not willing to drop the cash on an actual Heritage edition when I picked this 2018 up about a year ago. I wanted a 2016+ for upgrades and I do like the revamped hood but overall I didn't much care for the chrome accents. Just seemed too suburban housewife for me. And so little by little I started doing some minor cosmetic changes until I have now what I'd like to believe is the final product. I wasn't 100% trying to clone the heritage edition but it ended up that way when I went Bronze instead of blackout on the wheels. And other than the wheels all mods are reversible if anyone cares to try.

I'd link to amazon but who knows if those will last the rest of time, here are the " Build " parts:

- LZLRUN Free Tool Kit Satin Black Vinyl Wrap Kit for Black Out Chrome Delete Window Trim Door Trim (2Inches x 30Feet) - Any satin black wrap will do
- Avery SW900-109-S Gloss White Pearl 5ft x 2ft (10 Sq/ft) Supreme Vinyl Car Wrap Film

- Plasti Dip Rubber Smoke Spray 11oz

- Dupli-Color EHWP10600 Wheel Coating Clearcoat, Matte, Clear
- Dupli-Color Wheel Coating, Matte, Bronze


I had some experience messing with wraps prior to this but even for a beginner should be doable.

Used the black wrap on the window sill chrome area. Simple enough

I can not recall if it was here on this forum or else where but on some post someone else found that exact Avery white color code and had tried it against blizzard pearl and it's a close enough to perfect match. There are videos out there on how to remove the door trim pieces and I followed them for removal. I will say for re-installation would be good to pick up some new plastic pieces that hold them on as I broke a few but even with out those it has held up for many months.

The door trim pieces are where if you look up close you can tell I'm a novice at wrapping, the corners can be tricky. BUT you pretty much have to staring straight at them point blank to notice and after my first mistake I learned how to at least hide the worst bits on the bottom so you'd have to stare up from the ground to catch.

Next was the use of the plasti-dip. I wanted a more brushed/gunmetal look but I didn't want to actually scuff up the chrome trim pieces on the hood and trunk because I didn't know if scuffing it would have actually worked given the surfaces. I came across this as a solution and it again has held up surprisingly well in the about 9 months since I did it. I even tested an area over night to see if I could peel it off if it went badly and sure enough it does. With a very healthy amount of painters tape and trash bags to protect the surrounding areas from over spray, I applied 2-3 VERY Light coats and it almost perfectly gave the brushed metal look I was going for.

Chrome is all gone now but what to do about the wheels? After looking at many a build with blacked out wheels decided it wasn't for me. Bronze seemed more my taste plus in my mind I would help hide brake dust more in my mind at least. I figured why not at least use the spare as a guinea pig to see if I can just paint them and it turned out good enough for me to roll the dice.

And to help anyone in the future trying to find this since I had no luck "Land Cruiser 200 series stock wheels painted"

Followed the instructions for the wheel coatings. Prepped with 2 types of sand paper, steel wool, decreaser, etc. (Having a little hand held air duster to help speed up drying was clutch by the way). Finally painted and used about 1.25 cans of paint on each wheel and two clear coat applications each. This isn't hard but it is time consuming. I ended up only doing two at a time due to time constraints so I drove around with a two faced setup with one side of the car having stock look and the other painted for about a week until I could get the wheels on the other side. They are a bit brighter than these first pictures are doing justice.

Only has been a couple months since I painted the wheels but they've held up good best I can see. Time will tell if they hold and I'll be interested in seeing what happens next time I get new tires but as of now.... *knock on wood* they're doing great. Helps that I put so many layers on them.

So now the only decision I have left, is to go with the stock lug nuts or black ones. I'm currently rocking both with black ones on the driver side and stock on the passenger. Maybe I'll just keep it that way.

Thank you for coming to my TEDtalk

*image converted failed on the one rear angled picture
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Looks good man.
I go black lugs on bronze wheels even if the car has chrome accents. That's how my obk is with Method bronze wheels.
 
Great minds think alike....same Avery trim wrap and wheel color. I didn't sand the wheels at all and it has held up well for a couple of years (she's a pavement princess). I think I could 'peel' back to original with a pressure washer if desired. I bought a set of HE center-caps not realizing the caps are a different diameter than non-HE wheels. I do like the idea of black lugs and I think your blacked out window trim looks ideal. May do that and wrap my mirrors in gloss black one day when I need a project.

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Nice to know yours have held up for a few years. The wheels are the only things I'd be concerned with long time. If any of the other things I did start to wear it's super easy to touch up.
 
Great minds think alike....same Avery trim wrap and wheel color. I didn't sand the wheels at all and it has held up well for a couple of years (she's a pavement princess). I think I could 'peel' back to original with a pressure washer if desired. I bought a set of HE center-caps not realizing the caps are a different diameter than non-HE wheels. I do like the idea of black lugs and I think your blacked out window trim looks ideal. May do that and wrap my mirrors in gloss black one day when I need a project.

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Just the look I am seeking and I like not doing anything more than cleaning. Could you be a little more specific for someone like me who is mechanically challenged and has never rattled canned anything except the sliders on my old 100 series where looks didn't matter? Did you take the wheels off, bleed the air, clean with anything particular? How did you mask the wheels? How many coats and how cans did you use on each wheel? Did you put a clear coat on them and if so how many coats? Do you think this paint will hold up under a new tire set up or would they need to be redone? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Easy Saturday project.
There's a dozen ways to do this and I am sure some are more ideal than others but I went with the steps that I knew I would actually complete.
Taking one wheel/tire combo as the example - clean tire and wheel very well with soapy water. I sprayed on a little Simple Green, wiped around quickly, and then rinsed that as well. Trying to eliminate any dust or oils on the surface of both the wheel and tire. Use yard blower to dry very well. Then I located a sacrificial air cap which I moved from set to set before painting then trashed it after. I used 3" wide blue painter tape in 4" or so long pieces to cover the tire, tucking it under the wheel edge and overlapping. Once I had a completed ring of tape pieces, I taped on larger printer paper sheets to cover the tires. Taping a trash bag to the tape ring may have been quicker. Others people recommend coating tire with something that would allow to peel off overspray but I didn't do that. I then cut a circular piece of cardboard to insert from the rear of the wheel that loosely aligned with the inner rim circumference just behind the spokes to keep overspray from getting all inside the wheel. Probably unnecessary b/c who cares...
(Clearly I didn't because after doing the above for the first wheel off the truck, I dropped back to leaving the wheel on the truck but removing the lug nuts (still did decent wheel/tire prep and blue tape, stuffing newspaper through the spokes to provide protection from overspray for brakes/etc, and spraying wheels in place.)
Then it's just time to start laying on thin coats. I used Hyperdip and followed their info sheet; wheel bone dry, keep finger out of spray flow, can upright, 4 light coats of fast overlapping passes, each coat fully dries before the next, humidity <50% ideal; then I added 2-3 heavier coats because I didn't want issues when/if it came time to peel plus I had 2 out of 6 cans remaining from my purchase. Used 1 can per wheel initially then used 1.5 more to thicken it up.
Helpful hint - thin coats to start; somewhat more full after the first 2-3. And use enough coats because it seems that the people that have trouble peeling it later are ones that didn't put on enough total to form a good film layer. Also, wheel should be upright because can must be upright to avoid sputtering; so spray a bit, rotate wheel, spray more, hit all those weird corners, and on and on.
After a few hours I sprayed Rustoleum Gloss Clear vinyl wrap on top because the Hyperdip was a flat sheen and also not the most smooth finish texture so I believe it would be prone to hold brake dust. **Make sure to replace and retighten lug nuts if you've just removed them and sprayed in place!!
I should have painted lugs black or replaced them. I did use a toilet paper tube or something else round to shield as I sprayed the outer lip area of my center caps bronze to match. (Had purchased factory HE caps but they are a much smaller size)
**Just now remembering that I only did the driver side first and drove that way for about a month trying to figure out if I wanted to go bronze. So, if you're not all-in, this is an easy reversible project. Had I removed the tires, needed new tires, or was having to replace the TPMS, I probably would have powder coated. If set on painting but you are also doing tire work, I'd do tire work first because I have a feeling that dip/peelable paint wouldn't fare well on machines at a tire shop.
 
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