My results of Eastwood Gas Tank Sealer Kit (1 Viewer)

FirstFJ60

SGT. Lincoln Osiris
Joined
Oct 16, 2017
Messages
275
Location
virginia Beach
I just wanted to post a thread regarding my process, results, helpful tidbits and review of Eastwood Gas Tank Sealer Kit. The reason why I had to chose to use a gas sealer tank kit was because I found out my carb was getting contaminated in my 84 FJ60 due letting "Osiris" sit close to a year with gas in the tank...NOT a good idea... DONT have them sit. The carb was getting this green residue due to bad ethanol sitting in the tank and water/moisture accumulating in tank...result Nasty green curd each time (5x times taking down carb as a matter of fact, with 2 rebuild kits later). With the help of the guys here, it was decided to clean my tank. fYI, my tank was replaced by recall in 1995.
Below are suggestions that I came across that may help you (or not) if you use Eastwood Gas Sealer kit. I ordered the kit straight from Eastwood Gas Tank Sealant Kit for Fuel System Repairs - https://www.eastwood.com/gas-tank-sealer-kits-eastwood-gas-tank-sealer.html. Note: You will need Muriatic Acid and Acetone, which is not included in kit.

I narrowed it down to two Gas Tank Sealer Kits: POR-15 and Eastwood. There was more videos and reviews on POR-15 than Eastwood. A lot of people had good results from POR-15. However, since I didn't' see anyone recently stating the results of using Eastwood Sealer Gas Kit AND I'm one that goes against the grain (thanks Garth Brooks) I decided to give Eastwood a try. When looking at POR-15 reviews (blog and vlogs), a lot of people were using a heat gun to completely dry their tank...for this reason, Eastwood became more appealing since I wouldn't have to use the heat gun until one their steps ( after Step 6) due to one of their steps uses Acetone which dries the tank completely out within minutes.

Here are two links that can be found on Eastwood regarding the directions/ instructions:
Gas Tank Sealer - How To Sealing Instructions & Usage Guide - https://www.eastwood.com/gas-tank-sealer-howto-instructions-and-buyers-guide
How to Seal & Restore a Gas Tank | Eastwood Blog - https://garage.eastwood.com/tech-articles/restore-gas-tank/

[NOTE: it may be helpful to look at the cutaway of this tank by @nikeob1 (*) Chopped in half 60 series gas tank - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/chopped-in-half-60-series-gas-tank.752305/ so you will know how to rotate the tank...it helped me. I looked inside the tank for Steps 7 & 11(wearing a mask and using a led flash light. This stuff is STRONG) to see the viscosity of the Fast Etching and Gas Tank sealer thus determining how long to hold the tank in place to coat ALL services.]

Eastwood recommends to use Muriatic Acid and add three ounces of muriatic acid to 60 ounces of water, making about half a gallon of 20-to-1 water-to-acid solution, Step 5. Disclaimer: I recommend you to follow what the manufacturer suggests; however, I used this method the first time and found out it wasn't strong enough (and my tank wasn't rusty at all) to clean the tank sufficiently. So, I decided to use 3 gallons on water and one gallon on Muriatic Acid. I found this to be really stronger and results were great! I did let the 4 gallon muriatic sit for about 30 minutes on each side. NOTE: Always pour the Acid into the water, NOT water into the Acid (lets say it has to do with a chemical reaction). I used 2lbs of Baking Soda to Neutralize the acid while still in the tank and I poured it out using the fuel pick up opening.

There isn't much Fast Etching product so you have to take your time and make sure everything is coated well before pouring it out. With your mask, look inside the holes and see if everything is coated. If you see something that doesn't have a wet look or still has flash rust, make sure it is covered...take your time. You want all the Fast Etching to cover everything so the Sealant will adhere to especially the compartment where the fuel pick up rest in. This process is challenging because of the baffles inside of the tank...and yes, I made sure the baffles were etched coated. Pour off the remainder in bucket...it should be gray looking when pouring out and the interior should look gray.

Here is the cool part, Step 8, while tank interior is still wet from Fast Etch, pour in the Acetone (1 qt). Please wear a mask!!!! I tape up the areas and found out that Gorilla tape was no match for Acetone because it was so cold, the tape pilled off the top holes when I covered it while sloshing it around. It created pressure and due to the cold affect of acetone, it peeled off quickly when I flipped the tank on its top side for a quick slosh. The reason why its the cool part (pun intended) was after I did this twice, the whole tank was dry within 5 minutes. With POR 15, it seems with every step there was a use of a heat gun or a lot of time needed for a heat gun....not so for East wood. :rofl:

Regarding the drain plug. I guess I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed but I wasn't understanding of how the sealant would work with the drain plug. There weren't any instructions as to how to prevent the Gas Sealer from clogging up the threads or when to leave it in after gas sealant was poured in. Here was my solution: After I poured in the 2 bottles, I sealed off all holes with gorilla tape when I slowly rotated the tank (*). I knew I wanted the drain plug to be last place the coating to dry since this is where the majority of the time, the gas would be. I followed Step 12 (Properly Coated Tank in how to instructions) and make sure EVERYTHING is covered, then pour off the excess once. I found out that draining the sealant from the hole where the fuel pick up is easier. Once, coated for 8-10 minutes twice and coating all surfaces, undo the drain plug. When I looked inside, I noticed there was a lip that the drain plug bolt came up through which I thought no sealant would come through....I was wrong. When I removed the drain plug, the Sealant was dripping like out on the outside of the threads, NOT on the inside of threads, even though the sealant was below the bolt (see pic) . I know it might sound weird but that's how it was dripping. By this time, it was curing and dripping like snot. After it drained, I took some Acetone and used a Q-tip and cleaned the inside threads just in case, then put the drain plug back in. The next morning, I unscrewed the drain plug and left it out. BTW, it had cured enough that had harden.

I left it to cure for 48 hours (as recommended) and I made sure my garage was kept at 65F or more so it would cure. Please with end results with last two pics below. I hope these little Tidbits will help when using Eastwood system. The results seem to be very durable but the true test will come when I install the tank with fresh gas and it fires up. My recommendation is do when its warmer weather if you have to do it outside. This can be done within a day easily if there is a well ventilated area and its above 60F.

Drain Plug

20210217_140758.jpg


Before
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After
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FirstFJ60

SGT. Lincoln Osiris
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Messages
275
Location
virginia Beach
Did you have any issues with the little flapper on the inlet getting stuck in the sealant?
it was a little stiff but I made sure too keep checking it so it wouldnt "freeze" by pushing back and forth within hours. I think each sealant will act differently.
 

FishNinJay

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Messages
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Location
Orange County, CA
@FirstFJ60 .. nice write-up and pics. Maybe I'm missing something obvious here.. but why did you do this? Were you mainly just trying to thoroughly clean out your tank? or did you want to do the sealant part to prevent future leak? I'm going to be replacing all the soft fuel hoses to and from my tank, towards the fuel evaporative separator, in my 1990 FJ62. My rig also apparently had tank replaced in 1994 under the recall. I'm thinking I may just drop the tank and check everything out while I'm down there.. and wondering if I should "treat" the inside of the fuel tank with either the Eastwood or POR15 tank sealant kits.. I guess mainly pre-emptively? Thanks... -J
 

FirstFJ60

SGT. Lincoln Osiris
Joined
Oct 16, 2017
Messages
275
Location
virginia Beach
@FirstFJ60 .. nice write-up and pics. Maybe I'm missing something obvious here.. but why did you do this? Were you mainly just trying to thoroughly clean out your tank? or did you want to do the sealant part to prevent future leak? I'm going to be replacing all the soft fuel hoses to and from my tank, towards the fuel evaporative separator, in my 1990 FJ62. My rig also apparently had tank replaced in 1994 under the recall. I'm thinking I may just drop the tank and check everything out while I'm down there.. and wondering if I should "treat" the inside of the fuel tank with either the Eastwood or POR15 tank sealant kits.. I guess mainly pre-emptively? Thanks... -J
i did this because I rebuilt my carb twice because it wouldnt crank. When I inspected the carb the 3rd time I notices green slime and all copper jets had corrosion. I traced it back to the gas tank and notice ethanol buildup was the culprit since I let my truck sit for about a year. As of today, it fires up perfectly.
 

FishNinJay

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Joined
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Messages
808
Location
Orange County, CA
i did this because I rebuilt my carb twice because it wouldnt crank. When I inspected the carb the 3rd time I notices green slime and all copper jets had corrosion. I traced it back to the gas tank and notice ethanol buildup was the culprit since I let my truck sit for about a year. As of today, it fires up perfectly.
but no leak in your tank? .. so you didn't technically need the sealant part? Is there a down side to the sealant? Could you have just cleaned it out thoroughly with the acid solution, as you described? I know you had concerns about it gunking up the drain plug threads. Since I don't have the carb issue you had, and I do not think my tank is actually leaking, I'm wondering if I should just leave it alone (if it ain't broke, don't fixed it). Thanks.. glad your rig is working better !
 

FirstFJ60

SGT. Lincoln Osiris
Joined
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Messages
275
Location
virginia Beach
but no leak in your tank? .. so you didn't technically need the sealant part? Is there a down side to the sealant? Could you have just cleaned it out thoroughly with the acid solution, as you described? I know you had concerns about it gunking up the drain plug threads. Since I don't have the carb issue you had, and I do not think my tank is actually leaking, I'm wondering if I should just leave it alone (if it ain't broke, don't fixed it). Thanks.. glad your rig is working better !
correct...there was no leak in my tank...it was for preventive measures due to my carb. I have a peace of mind its done with all new gas lines.
The only down side for Eastwood was the time it took...I guess thats for any of these sealants. I took my time and did it right. I guess you could clean it with a acid solution but it will probably flash rust and make it worse. I would agree, if aint broken dont fix it. You can always go in the back and inspect from the inside and confirm if anything needs to be done...beware of fumes and pop the gas cap to relief pressure before doing that. Just dont let your rig sit using Ethanol..Time and Ethanol Do not mix well..literally.
 

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