3,7,10,9,8,6,12,13,2,1,15,1,5,14
My first LX470 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter thetoyotaman
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Sub is out. It was rattling pretty good.
Didn’t need to pull the seat but the belt anchors. Rear one required some work as it did not want to come out. Ended up using a little home brew solvent of ATF, acetone, and diesel to free working back and forth. This required removal of the mud flap to bumper bolts so I could get to the wheel well cover. Then I just pulled it far enough down to spray with solvent.
Wondering if there is any way to remove and replace the grill?
Wondering if there is any way to remove and replace the grill?
- Thread starter
- #43
Cleaned and scraped the old foam off with an exacto. A shop vac comes in handy here. There is a ring that sits on top of the foam that needs to be removed. It’s glued on with the same foam glue. The paper cone is fairly thick so it is easy to work with without being fragile. The foam glue is very thin so use sparingly. It comes out quickly. I hardly used any in the tube. The new foam surround and plastic ring are notched and fit perfectly. Very impressed with the sub kit.
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- #44
Planning on letting the sub dry overnight. We turned our attention to the panel and replaced a broken seatbelt holder. If you haven’t seen how they attach there are 2 plastic prongs held on with metal clips. Remove clips, replace clips and it’s fixed.
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- #45
The subwoofer grille fabric was coming off at the top and it appears it is molded in place. I used the foam glue and it made quick work of it. However, one of the door grill fabrics is torn so I purchased some 3D khaki mesh speaker fabric and figured out I could just overlay the factory fabric and screw the assembly back to the panel. It turned out great! It has a little padding in it and is very nice quality.
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- #46
Although the panel can be carefully removed with the third row seat in it was easier to reinstall the panel with it out. The drivers side track needs to be fully extended forward to install.
Today we turned our attention to the drivers rear door for some maintenance. There are 4 pushpins that release by pressing the center button, 2 8mm bolts at the bottom, door latch outer and inner trim that requires a little screwdriver to release around the door lock in a notch above and below it following the screw removal, switch removal by prying/pressing the front side of the switch to release the spring and a center bolt under the switch mechanism. The first picture shows all of the parts removed to get the speaker out. We also recovered the grill, replaced the foam on the speaker just like the sub, and sprayed dry silicone on the glass slides while running the window up and down. I had to reglue one section of the foam as it is easy to also use too little glue as well.
Today we turned our attention to the drivers rear door for some maintenance. There are 4 pushpins that release by pressing the center button, 2 8mm bolts at the bottom, door latch outer and inner trim that requires a little screwdriver to release around the door lock in a notch above and below it following the screw removal, switch removal by prying/pressing the front side of the switch to release the spring and a center bolt under the switch mechanism. The first picture shows all of the parts removed to get the speaker out. We also recovered the grill, replaced the foam on the speaker just like the sub, and sprayed dry silicone on the glass slides while running the window up and down. I had to reglue one section of the foam as it is easy to also use too little glue as well.
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- Thread starter
- #47
Pulled the front drivers door and discovered the speaker had previously been repaired and is in good condition. Inspected the midrange and it looked good. Silicone sprayed liberally all the window tracks exercising them up and down. Recovered the speaker grille. Moving right along.
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Wow. Great job. Where did you get the speaker mesh cloth? Looks really good.
- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks! I have to say from the quality and color it really looks like an upgrade to the Lexus material. I’m very pleased with it. Ordered from fabric.com
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Thanks! Going to give that a try. So you just spray glued over the old fabric and over laid it with the new? Also going to hit the window slides while I’m in there. Appreciate all the these smart ideas!
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- #51
I simply cut a square of the fabric large enough to wrap around the grille leaving the original material. There are 2 alignment pins that I folded the material over to hold it in place while placing the grille on the door panel working the rest of the material until pleased with the fit. Pull the material to the desired tension from the backside and tighten. Then trim the excess with an exacto knife.
Finished my first one this morning! Was concerned about the stretch and hold technique but the results speak for themselves. I agree that fabric is really nice. Great tip! Thanks!
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- #53
The passenger door lock wasn’t working so I pulled the assembly and replaced with a new motor. I found that it helped to unbolt the lower window channel to move out of the way. Also, I found that liquid electrical tape seems to match the original adhesive pretty closely and works well. Just use a tiny paint brush to fill the channel before reassembly.
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- #54
The white plastic cable cover did not want to stay in place so I used a step down bit to cut a clean hole where I could use a plastic press in retainer. Works great.
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- #55
Finished up the speaker rebuild, speaker grille upholstery, door lock repair and window channel silicone project today. I’ve found the rear passenger side door grill takes the biggest beating from kids getting in and out but everything looks so much better now and the sound system is not that bad.
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- #57
4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - FC-280PT-22125 | eBay
4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - Automotive Lock Actuator Motors FC-280PT-22125. Popular motors used in many cars to operate door locks and mirrors. Electric DC motors.
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- #58
Update on the door lock motor. Not too long after installation I started hearing a noise when unlocking. Pulled the motor apart to find one side of the cover popped up. Strange thing was that the other side was difficult to come apart. I’m thinking the problem may have been too little use of adhesive and install in cold weather so I pulled it apart, cleaned, and liberally applied the adhesive. Not sure of the curing time as the bottle doesn’t say, but going to try to keep it in the house longer for drying time as it only went up to 34 today.
- Thread starter
- #59
Last pic shows a hint of what I’ve been working on this past week with friends and family. Just haven’t had time to get all the pictures together. Stay tuned...
Hmm, liquid electric tape might be your problem. Use epoxy, used it on my lock and no problems for the couple months since now.
