My Aussies!

[liljlandon]

Have yet to get em in my truck. Plan to get the rear in saturday, and the front in next saturday.

Yey!
Sorry for the low res camera phone pics, camera batterys are dead..

Total was 579.35 For 2 lockers, 2 pinion seals, 3qts (2pictured) of Royal Purple for the rear and 3qts of PX3 Synthetic (Oreillys brand) for the front. Gaskets are due in 2morrow.

I have red (Hi heat, hi strength) loc-tite and every metric sized tool youll ever need.

Anything Else I need?

I have no idea how to measure shim, etc. I have an electric micrometer.

Any tips? Or advice?

Thanks,
liljlandon

 

[Man Jerk]

I believe you will need to grind the carrier in order to fit the locker in.

 

[liljlandon]

I believe you will need to grind the carrier in order to fit the locker in.

From what i understand its just in a few cases, some clear, some dont. I do have a grinder, so I am still set!

 

[83 chif]

cool

sounds exciting, and that's a sweet color truck, any chance we could get a pic of the whole rig?

 

[KLF]

Are these going into 4-cyl or 6-cyl diffs? If 4-cyl, you'll have to remove the ring gear from the carrier. But unless the pinion seal is leaking, you don't need to pull it out, so you didn't need the new seals. If you ARE replacing the pinion seals, then you'll also need new crush sleeves and pinion stake nuts.

So many "ifs"...

 

[liljlandon]

4cyl. looks like i get5 mmoney back for the seals then.

ring gear hard to remove?

 

[WristPin]

since you have never done this job, you need to either learn fast from the FSM, and learn good, Or have someone help you do it. It is easy but tricky to set and keep the carrier bearing preload when you are settin backlash.

you need to copy the pages and print them from the 92 FSM linked in the FAQ.

 

[KLF]

Getting the ring gear off is pretty easy. What I do is put the carrier in a big vise, gear teeth point down, with a rag under it. Ding the carrier with a center punch and scratch the gear, so you can put the gear back on in the same position. After you unstake and remove the ring gear bolts, take a stout brass drift and a BFH, tap around the gear and it will slowly start to come off. Go a little bit at a time, try to keep it parallel to the mounting surface. It should come right off.

Getting it back on is another story. I've tried to press/pound them back on, but it's a pain. The FSM shows heating the gear so it will expand and go back on, but it warns about not overheating it (VERY important). What I do now is use an old electric skillet full of water, and my DVM with a temp probe to monitor the temp. Get everything ready, carrier in a vise flange side up, clean the flange off with a big flat file to get rid of any burrs, and have the bolts handy. Set the gear into the water, let it heat up, when it gets up to about 180-190deg I pull it out (wearing gloves), give it a quick blast of air to get rid of any trapped water, then it will drop right onto the carrier and spin easily so you can get the bolts started. I quickly put 2-3 bolts in and snug them with the impact gun to get the alignment set, then I put the rest in with Locktite. Pull the first ones back out and Loctite them in. By the time you get them all snugged and torqued, it will be cooled enough that it will have a good grip on the carrier and will have self-centered.

I have heard about people heating them on a gas grill in a pan of water, if you don't have a good temp probe then just look for the water to be almost boiling. Don't let the water boil, and don't use a torch.

Setting the carrier preload isn't that hard, but it really helps to have a good spanner tool for tightening the adjusters. I made mine.

 

[liljlandon]

What is a spanner tool? I feel pretty retarded right now. But I am trying to learn everything I can about this so Ill know what to do later when i come up to this by my lonesome!

KLF; did you ever get those lines in the mail?

 

[KLF]

Here's a pic of my crude booty-fab diff building stand, you can see my homemade spanner tools sitting on the workmate. Basically a chunk of 1/4" barstock with a couple of bolts welded in and the threads cut off so only a small pin is left to stick into the holes of the adjusters. That's a hi-pinion e-locker in the stand now, the Y-shaped spanner is required for the cog-side adjuster.

Hoses were mailed out yesterday, USPS Priority. Cost was $9.55.

 

[liljlandon]

There are some pictures for 83chif!