My AHC failed

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No, you can't just use the switches or techstream it's a procedure for bleeding the ahc system. I found this online.

Are these the correct steps to bleed the ahc system?
1. Park on level surface mark 'N' fluid level
2. Put vehicle suspension in 'L' mode mark fluid level
3. Turn off vehicle
4. Extract all old fluid from reservoir
5. Fill reservoir to the top with new AHC fluid
6. Remove all 4 rubber caps at each bleeder screw
7. Bleed driver side front actuator by loosening bleeder, when suspension bottoms out, immediately tighten bleeder screw.
8. Start vehicle and wait for the suspension to automatically level itself, then turn off vehicle.
9. Check fluid level
10. Repeat Step 7 and 9 for the passenger side front actuator.
11. Repeat Step 7 and 9 for the driver side rear actuator.
12. Repeat Step 7 and 9 for the passenger side rear actuator.

Always check the fluid level in the reservoir, don't let it get
The car is already bottomed out is the problem.
 
Fill the reservoir a bit past max, clear the code, turn on the truck and let it raise, then do the regular bleed procedure. Make sure you never run out of fluid in the reservoir
Thanks! I successfully changed the pipe, bleed the system, and refilled the reservoir. The LX is happy once again.
Thanks All!
 
A few questions for NYC570 and/or UCrazyKid - in order to get to and remove and replace the No. 5 line that crosses above the rear axle, do you have to loosen and drop the tailpipe assembly for access? If so are you reusing the clamp and gasket when reassembling? Are there any specific references in the FSM that detail access and replacement on these lines? Looking for any tips as it is extremely tight in there.
 
A few questions for NYC570 and/or UCrazyKid - in order to get to and remove and replace the No. 5 line that crosses above the rear axle, do you have to loosen and drop the tailpipe assembly for access? If so are you reusing the clamp and gasket when reassembling? Are there any specific references in the FSM that detail access and replacement on these lines? Looking for any tips as it is extremely tight in there.
I dropped the spare, I didn’t drop the exhaust and don’t think it would be necessary. The clips that hold the line are brittle and mine broke with removal. My car is all rusty underneath so it wasn’t worth my time to try and get the bolts out and replace the mounts/clips. I’m not concerned as the line is up and out of the way and stable from the connections at either end. You will want a set of “shorty” wrenches.

On the passenger side connection, I could not get good leverage on the line fitting ( the one replacing) and didn’t want to over stress the receiving line that I need to keep, so I used an air saw to cut the old line up agains the end fitting that is hex shaped. Once that was cut, I could fit a deep well socket over the end. I had to use about 36” of extensions and a swivel to get the right angle to engage it. Once that was good, I put a wrench on the firing in the line that we are not removing to hold it steady while I backed off the remaining end of the old line.

I also recommend juicing up everything with PB Blaster before working on it.
 
A few questions for NYC570 and/or UCrazyKid - in order to get to and remove and replace the No. 5 line that crosses above the rear axle, do you have to loosen and drop the tailpipe assembly for access? If so are you reusing the clamp and gasket when reassembling? Are there any specific references in the FSM that detail access and replacement on these lines? Looking for any tips as it is extremely tight in there.

Once I had the line free, I only unhooked the exhaust from the rear hangers to let it drop a bit to allow the line to come out easier, no need to loosen the exhaust. I used a jack stand to hold the exhaust to not let it drop too much.
 
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