moving v8 forward, anyone move radiator?

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Looking at AA crap

5.25 or 6.75 adapter length, just gave me another reason why i will never buy anything from AA. :D

better off running a doubler for the length and costs.

IT still shows that you have to change out front yoke and crap?

I would look around, try http://www.downeyoff-road.com/Catalog/index.htm click on engine componets then adapters. Look for short adapters. And downey is not the cheapest.

And novak adapters was suppose to be coming out with a 700r4 shaft to make it look like a th350, but at the time i wanted one they would not give me one of the prototypes, booo. AA is having trouble with thier shafts like always.

BTW 4x4 700r4 with i believe a 1.5 spacer and cut output will fit any th350 adapter. :D

I did not purchase my adapter and such it came in a cruiser i purchased as a package deal with another i bought.

Just a suggestion also, maybe the shorter adapter for the th400 is the way to go, or look to install a d18 as i see those adapters and cases are pretty cheap.

I can get pics of my setup to anyone that wants them just send me an email address that can handle pics and i will take some.
 
I was under the impression that Air flow around the motor was altered by moving the motor that far forward..

As I recall it might have caused overheating problems...

Course.. I have a six..

WTH do I know...
 
Miles,
There are several places you can mount a cooler. I run a 5 speed so no tranny cooler, however, I do run a large oil cooler. It's just behind the front bumber laid horizontally flat. I fabbed a cow to flow air into and then down (pics if you want). The set up is great for pulling large amounts of cold air past the cooler and I run a fan under it for stalled traffic. The largest flaw is that a front end collision will wipe out the cooler and I'll have to shut it down immediately. Shouldn't really be an issue since I use an oil pressure kill switch anyway but you get the point.
 
[quote author=HI^C link=board=1;threadid=12297;start=msg113852#msg113852 date=1078254518]
And novak adapters was suppose to be coming out with a 700r4 shaft to make it look like a th350, but at the time i wanted one they would not give me one of the prototypes, booo. AA is having trouble with thier shafts like always.

BTW 4x4 700r4 with i believe a 1.5 spacer and cut output will fit any th350 adapter. :D
[/quote]

The novak page says you need a short shaft (4x4 version), but that depends on the combo of trans and tcase. If yer using a gm auto and toyo trans case w/adapter IIRC you need a longer shaft and it needs to be cut.

The output spline on the th350 and 700r4 are the same.
 
dingle i seen that i went and looked after i posted.

the shaft i am talking about that they must not still be making for sale. is a 700r4 ouput shaft that only sticks out of the case like 3/4" like a th350 4x4 trans. SO you could bolt up any adapter that is made for a th350 to a 700r4.

AA makes this shaft, but is having problems with these and like always most of all their other shafts.

AA uses cores to remake these shafts (i was told this from someone), and dont come out up to par when they are done with them.
 
Always use a shroud if you think there will be cooling concerns. Am going up to work at my shop this weekend (baby's getting a new motor) and will take pics while I'm there. Can post for you Monday morning.
 
I dont understand why go to all this trouble when you can flip the rear springs to get a longer rear shaft and wheel base ?? or am I missing something ...
 
kling yes and no, i set mine up stock, and i am going to spring flip here shortly. But in TJ case his cruiser is to good of condition to spring flip IMO.

flip, front of rear spring now becomes rear of rear spring, search there is more information and i believe pics. Yeilds about 3 or 3 1/2" of rear axle change, i believe. requires clearencing of the rear of the rear wheel opening.
 
i have a sbc 350 700r4 in my 40 it is as far forward as it could be,i have a short pump spacer and a seven blade flex fan.moved the rad forward about an inch or so put a fan shroud on,made a bracket to hold the tranny cooler above the pass side of the motor so the fan blows air on it,never had it overheat offroading or rock crawling.it did heat up a little doing 70 on the hwy.
 
[quote author=milesstarkey link=board=1;threadid=12297;start=msg114455#msg114455 date=1078338218]
is what you are talking about the shackle reversal? most what i have found is just for the front. or can the springs just be taken off, flipped and bolted back on?
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you flip the rear spring in there mounts and since thae center pin is off set to the frt now it offsets to the rear after and you get a 3-4 in longer rear drive shaft and longer wheel base for a better driving cruiser put Jeep TJ flairs like the bottom one and i think you get ALOT cleaner look then regular cut outs
 
I have a 71 FJ40, 327 (TBI), TH350, 1 1/2" AA adapter, 3speed TC with vac shift.
I installed the engine as far fwd as possible. my 4 blade stamp steel fan is on a short spacer with a long waterpump. I went long because I wanted the accy's to mount close to the engine. I slotted the radiator mount holes on the chassis and moved the rad as far fwd as poss (took off the TOYOTA emblem). Rad has been recored to a 5 row, Hi efficiency core. I have my rad cooler attached to the brush guard (behind my winch).

Runs cool, AT temp shows good except for extreeme crawl conditions but never over 200. I tried flex fans, but I overheated. I got an 18" stamped steel fan from an old Chev truck and it works great. I did build a shroud.
Pic is of shroud area before the TBI.
 
kling-on, i'm just trying to understand the spring thing. you have to cut off the mounts and weld them back on, or do you just unbolt the rear springs, flip them and bolt them back in? you wrote 'in their mounts' but i'm confused as to how much of the mount needs to be changed. so, bolt or cut and weld?
 
[quote author=milesstarkey link=board=1;threadid=12297;start=msg114886#msg114886 date=1078407783]
kling-on, i'm just trying to understand the spring thing. you have to cut off the mounts and weld them back on, or do you just unbolt the rear springs, flip them and bolt them back in? you wrote 'in their mounts' but i'm confused as to how much of the mount needs to be changed. so, bolt or cut and weld?
[/quote]

just flip the spring the mounts do not change
 
[quote author=Yoda link=board=1;threadid=12297;start=msg114826#msg114826 date=1078379828]
I have a 71 FJ40, 327 (TBI), TH350, 1 1/2" AA adapter, 3speed TC with vac shift.
I installed the engine as far fwd as possible. my 4 blade stamp steel fan is on a short spacer with a long waterpump. I went long because I wanted the accy's to mount close to the engine. I slotted the radiator mount holes on the chassis and moved the rad as far fwd as poss (took off the TOYOTA emblem). Rad has been recored to a 5 row, Hi efficiency core. I have my rad cooler attached to the brush guard (behind my winch).

Runs cool, AT temp shows good except for extreeme crawl conditions but never over 200. I tried flex fans, but I overheated. I got an 18" stamped steel fan from an old Chev truck and it works great. I did build a shroud.
Pic is of shroud area before the TBI.
[/quote]

Do you know which output shaft was used on that TH350.

Is that the Costco marine battery? Do you like it? I was lookin at the marine one but I would've needed a new tray.
 
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