More Rust Repair, Back of Tub

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Fast Eddy

Fast Eddy

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This was there when I bought it. This one had almost no change after 2.5 years. One of the four along the back did get bigger.

This one is right below the 4wd emblem on the right rear of the tub, '78.
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I used a high-tech metal bonding agent :coughjbweldcough: instead of welding. There would always be some exposed metal between the layers of the tub after welding. No moisture can get between the panels this way. I do have to use a little bondo to make it come out perfect. :meh:

I didn't take a picture of the repair before bonding. It was clean and shiny inside, and as far around the cut as I could reach with a dremel cut-off wheel. Then I coat all surfaces with bonding agent and use JB Weld putty to space the new piece out if necessary. This repair has a bit of putty on the left, but none on the right.

The 2nd and 3rd photos are of the repairs on the other side before and after some grinding. I hope the one on the right comes out as perfect as the one on the left. You can see my first repair in the first picture. I saved the largest and most-exposed repair for last. It was the first repair I had to use non-Toyota sheet metal.

I suppose I should've waited for finish shots before posting. After using this method to restore my bib, I'm confident this will look perfect and last longer than a welded repair. Credit for all the crappy gray primer to my PO.
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Looks like a nice temporary fix, Ed. What did you do (if anything) on the inside of the sill? Will you match with rattle can or what. When I replaced my apron (remember my apron) I used some Ace Hardware/match stuff, a roller and a rattle-can satin clear on top. Stuck a new emblem on and I don't even notice the mismatch anymore (looks the worst in the camera flash). I think I'm sort of in the same place you are, liking the original paint I have, trying to fix what I can and saving the major body decisions/stuff for down the road.

You really call this is winter? :) Did you notice Sunnyvale Toyota is pushing that yellow 80 they have on Craig's list again - still $30+k? :rolleyes:
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beaufort-fj60 said:
does jbwelb absorb moisture? I have never messed with the stuff, just wondering.
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Party pooper. :flipoff2: I have no idea. It's pretty similar to epoxy, so I would think not. I'll post up next time I get the grinder out back there, but I'm thinking that it will be good for at least 5 years.
 
Gusb said:
Looks like a nice temporary fix, Ed. What did you do (if anything) on the inside of the sill? Will you match with rattle can or what.
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Temporary? :hillbilly: I've got a nice paint gun. I'll get a dryer like this:

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

and some real paint. I need to paint this repair, the bib, the windshield frame, my half doors and my amby doors. Not a huge amount of painting, but enough to use proper tools.

There was a fairly significant issue on one end of the sill. My solution was too ugly to post. It would need a new sill before putting any real money into paint.

Your apron looks good. I'd use Ace paint, but the cost difference isn't that much and I'm afraid it would fade. :confused:

Gusb said:
You really call this is winter? :) Did you notice Sunnyvale Toyota is pushing that yellow 80 they have on Craig's list again - still $30+k? :rolleyes:
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Yup. This is it. It still sucks. I still haven't figure out folks who spend good money to go to where it's cold like this.

I have seen Sunnyvale's FJ40. They should have put it on ebay before the economy tanked.
 
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