Mileage with stock geared 80 on 36's .. uggh (1 Viewer)

[T Y L E R]

to start just pull up on the handle in the cab. If there is more than say 5mm of free play then the e-brake bell cranks are probably seized and holding the e-brake on which would tend to slow you down.

Well when I tugged on it today, it felt like slack for at least an inch or two. IOW's for that much of the arc, I felt no resistance at all.

Not sure why it would be seized on when I never use the ebrake.



TY

 

[landtank]

Doesn't matter, them babies are stuck on. You can release the hand break and crawl under the truck and hammer them back into place to release the pads for now. I replaced evreything and greased it liberally with white lithium over 100k ago with still no issues. You'll need some shoes by now I'm sure. Maybe one of Christo's engineers pulled them on out of habit.

 

[T Y L E R]

I'll climb under it and look after I pull my manual and ID the location

Engineers are a finicky bunch. You never know what they'll do ..



TY

 

[T Y L E R]

ebrake looks good Rick .. unless those rubber pads are supposed to be rotated closer. What about the springs; they look ok, or too compressed? Not sure what I should be looking for really, but I could articulate them both by hand.

 

[landtank]

the rubber pads should be touching the backing plate when released. It looks to like there is a gap there which would indicate that they are stuck on. Take a hammer and hit the bellcrank (the piece with the rubber pad on it) so the pads touch down on that plate. The wheels need to be torn down and serviced.

 

[T Y L E R]

the rubber pads should be touching the backing plate when released. It looks to like there is a gap there which would indicate that they are stuck on. Take a hammer and hit the bellcrank (the piece with the rubber pad on it) so the pads touch down on that plate. The wheels need to be torn down and serviced.

Damn .. ok. See what an asset you are?

can I spray some grease on the springs or something to help loosen things up?

Why do the wheels need to be torn down and serviced. I don't really understand how the ebrake works to be honest, or why servicing is required now VS just a BFH and some lube.

 

[Jason Andrews]

gas mileage

Just looking over my initial VISA bill upon which I bought all my return fuel from Golden Co, and it looks like I may have been running below 10MPG. Mind you I may have bought a few snacks with some of the fuel, and I used an average of $2.25USD for pricing .. 1200 miles and change took $290 USD. FWIW I stayed at the speed limits, in cruise, and always tapped the OD off on hills .. and ran the PWR button the whole trip plus I have a Truspeed recallibrator installed.


This about right for a lite 80 running the equipment in my sig line?


Man, that sucks!


Just how much would 4:88's help here??

ok, remember that not only does the tire size matter but the weight can make alot of difference. The 4.88's will only make it better. Your rpm's are lower, but that doesn't mean the engine is running in its peak economy/efficiency zone. My truck gets the same mileage as it did 5.5 years ago with no lift and some 265/75/16 Michelins on it as it does now. It could quite possibly be better. Now with 6+" and 35's, regeared it is 12/14. MPG will drop with bigger heavier tires but with the gears mine is consistent. My mileage was the same from stock to a OME 3" and the Michelins, and still 12/14 with 33's. When I put on the 35's it lowered a little. I checked the odometer for trueness between different tire heights by checking on mile markers on the highway, when I had the 33's and 35's before changing to 4.88's.

 

[concretejungle]

--> MoJ rethinking the 35's he was going to order today.

hahaha, just do it man!!

 

[concretejungle]

Tyler,
Thats why I plan on sticking with 33 for road and picking up some 35 SS for trail only. It does not take long to pay for itself. But hey your rig looks great.

I'm right there with you on that. I think it's the best of both worlds. Keep the 33s on the aluminum wheels and stick the SS's on some steel wheels. Not only that, but when you do go wheelin' your SS's will still have plenty of tread and not be ruined by driving around WS all day.

 

[landtank]

TY, it's way more F'd up than what a little wonder lube will do. First the pivot point of the bellcrank is seized from corrosion, second the pivot point of the internal cable is most likely seized and not pulling staright to the e-brake lever. So you need to tear down the rear brakes and clean, grease or replace as needed. Since the shoes have been jambed against the rotor for who knows how long they are toast as well as the rotor might be warped from the heat generated by the dragging shoes.

Every Toyota truck I've owned has had this problem but I usually catch it before it gets this far. When I did my LC 5 years ago the e-brake had a hard time holding the truck in place on it's own, after I was done it holds the truck just fine and has worked flawless since.

Once you beat the arms back into place the pads should release and you'll be ok until the next time you or another person pulls on that handle.