Mechanic Said RMS

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 22, 2021
Threads
3
Messages
17
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
So, I took my truck to have the timing belt and water pump changed, I will do it myself next time due to the time and jackassery I dealt with in regards to the shop I took my truck. I had an oil leak that was dripping a little bit every day from the typical spot at the bottom of the bell housing. They said Real Main Seal needs replacing but given the status of their other work I don't really trust them.

After doing some reading I found threads talking about the Valve Cover leaks, so I plan on redoing those this weekend. New gaskets and the Toyota sealant in the correct spots.

As i was poking around the truck this evening I finally was able to get some images of the upper portion of the transmission and the bottom end of the engine.

Ill post the pictures below, my main question is, if the valve covers are causing the leak would i see oil on the heads? They are bright silver with no oil to be found.
First photo is a View from the top of the bell housing on the passenger side.
Second is profile view of the meeting of the transmission and the engine. the wet spot from oil is more apparent in this one
IMG_1401.webp

IMG_1403.webp

Please, help me diagnose this before I drop the transmission and change the RMS if it truly isnt needed.
 
My RMS leaks a little but I've never once had to add oil. Until I do, I'm not going to worry about it.
 
With a 10 mm socket and an extension (NO wrench/wrachet) try to tighten the valve cover bolts. Just grasp the extension with one hand and try to turn. probably you'll see those are loose. Always use OEM gaskets and tube seals. I am planning this in the near future and I found each OEM valve cover gasket is $10-11 and a tube seal is $1.55 at partsouq.

What's the mileage in your truck?
 
With a 10 mm socket and an extension (NO wrench/wrachet) try to tighten the valve cover bolts. Just grasp the extension with one hand and try to turn. probably you'll see those are loose. Always use OEM gaskets and tube seals. I am planning this in the near future and I found each OEM valve cover gasket is $10-11 and a tube seal is $1.55 at partsouq.

What's the mileage in your truck?
185K
 
First picture looks greasy but not wet- not a prominent leak in that area.

Second picture is wet, but from the POV it’s impossible to tell where it’s coming from. Need more pictures pulled back a little- wider POV.

Valve covers if leaking should present evidence where they mate to the head.

Have you pulled the flywheel inspection cover on the lower bell housing and had a look ?
 
Once you verify that things are snug, You might try changing the oil to your preferred variant of shell rotella. I read on here a few years back that their seal conditioner additive tends to work better than most others, so I ran it on my 80 series and it dried up a few seeping leaks.
 
First picture looks greasy but not wet- not a prominent leak in that area.

Second picture is wet, but from the POV it’s impossible to tell where it’s coming from. Need more pictures pulled back a little- wider POV.

Valve covers if leaking should present evidence where they mate to the head.

Have you pulled the flywheel inspection cover on the lower bell housing and had a look ?
I will again today. Basically there should be Zero oil there at all correct?
 
I will again today. Basically there should be Zero oil there at all correct?
Right.

If it ends up being the RMS and you can find AT205 you might give that a try before dropping the trans. It might slow the drip.
 
Right.

If it ends up being the RMS and you can find AT205 you might give that a try before dropping the trans. It might slow the drip.
IMG_1421.webp

Opened the access panel. Stuck fingers in there and found some oil. not a lot, but some. I wiped up what i could and im trying to decide if the juice is worth the squeeze on this one. I couldnt find AT 205, So, I used Blue Devil a couple of weeks ago but it doesnt seem to have slowed the drip. Im probably just going to keep wiping it up and monitor the oil level.
 
Ok- some minor evidence in the upper right of your pic on that corner but it’s minimal- not enough to drip- and looking through the flywheel it looks pretty clean. Line is propagating from above the RMS.

I would de-grease the area thoroughly and monitor- keeping an eye on your oil level.

Curious- What is the engine oil type? SYN, Dino, High mileage?
 
Ok- some minor evidence in the upper right of your pic on that corner but it’s minimal- not enough to drip- and looking through the flywheel it looks pretty clean. Line is propagating from above the RMS.

I would de-grease the area thoroughly and monitor- keeping an eye on your oil level.

Curious- What is the engine oil type? SYN, Dino, High mileage?
Conventional 5w30 Considering a switch to high mileage but reading on here makes the decison more conflicted. Some act like its the problem, others act like it might be the solution. And Will do regarding the wipe down and monitor.
 
Back
Top Bottom