Mechanic in Scottsdale/NE Phoenix area?

[DoctorJay]

Looking for someone to do a pre-purchase inspection. Rig is owned by a fellow MUD member, and serviced at Camelback Toyota. I'd like to get it to another shop, since I'm looking at a long-distance purchase. I've seen some really good reports about the place in Mesa, but that may be a bit far.

TIA for advice/recommendations!

Alex

 

[bkgee]

Big Two Toyota of Chandler is where my LC was serviced previous to my purchase. I met the mechanic named Marco, he seemed legit and mild mannered. I can't give him the full recommendation though as I have never actually done business with him. Good luck!

I think Mesa would be closer to Cammelback though.

 

[BManning`]

Toyo Motors, Bell Rd & 28th Street, 602-971-8137.

Can't remember the owner's name, but he drives a beautiful lifted 80 that you'll see out front. They did a lot of work on my 1991 FJ80 when I had it and never let me down; they also seem to be able to get nice pricing on Toyota parts.

They are a small independent, as you may have guessed, but they will also save you some $$ over running to the open arms (jaws?) of the dealership.

I haven't needed them for my 100 (watch, now that I've said that...) but I'd take it there with confidence if a situation came up.

PS- located about 15-20min from Camelback Toyota-- 51 North, Bell Rd. exit, turn left, drive about a mile & they're on the right.

 

[DoctorJay]

Thanks guys. BManning that sounds like it's in the neighborhood. I'm not looking for a LTR, just a pre-purchase inspection. I always like the indy guys better than the dealerships anyway...

 

[hoch]

Got nothing to add, but didn't you just sell your 100?

Good luck with the purchase.

 

[DoctorJay]

I did. Through a long process, which will likely be the topic of a future thread, I've decided that the best replacement is probably another 100.

 

[MNFJ62]

Resurrecting a 15 year old thread. I am looking for some who is knowledgeable about the 100 series. The orignal factory radiator on my 2005 LX470, has finally started to leak and needs to be replaced.

Are there any credible smaller shops that work on these or any members running a mobile repair busienss?

I contacted one well known shop in the Valley and was quite surprised by the quote?

Any and all help sourcing a shop or member who works on these would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Snow Wagon]

Hello MNFJ62,
Just wondering, but are close to needing a Timing Belt / Water Pump service?
If not, replacing the Rad in a 100 Series is a pretty easy job.

I'd consider replacing the upper and lower rad hoses and clamps as well if they haven't been done recently.

Upper Radiator Hose 16571-50150
Lower Radiator Hose 16572-50150
(3) Hose Clamps, (2) for Upper, (1) for Lower 90466-41008
(1) Hose Clamps for Lower Part of Lower Hose 90467-43002

Process

Remove Engine Cover
- (2) Nuts and (2) Bolts. 10mm Socket
- Unclip Hose

Remove Air Box
- Disconnect (4) Clips for Engine Air Filter Cover
- Disconnect MAF Sensor Electrical Connection
- Loosen Hose Clamp at Intake. 10mm Socket
- Disconnect (4) Vacuum Hoses
- Remove (2) Bolts. 10mm Socket.

Remove Front Skid Plate
- (6) Bolts. 12mm Socket.
- Note: You may be able to access the Draincock to Drain the Coolant without Removing the Skid Plate.

Drain Coolant from Radiator
- Open Draincock on Passenger Side into Bucket

Disconnect Overflow Hose at Radiator

Remove Upper and Lower Engine Coolant Hoses
- Lower Hose is Clipped to the Fan Shroud

Clamp (so Fluid doesn't leak out...), then Disconnect, (2) Transmission Cooler Hoses from the Bottom of the Radiator

Remove Radiator Overflow Tank
- Remove (2) Bolts. 12mm Socket.
- Remove (1) Electrical Clip

Loosen (2) AC / Electrical Wiring Brackets at Top of Radiator
- Remove (2) Bolts. 12mm Socket.
- Rotate Brackets Up

Loosen Fan Shroud
- Remove (3) Bolts. 12mm Socket.
- Lift the Shroud Up to Remove it from the Lower Slots and Push it Towards the Engine

Remove (2) Radiator Nuts and (2) Radiator Bolts. 12mm Socket.
- Turn the Top Nuts from in Front of the Radiator. You may need to hold the Back with a Large Adjustable Wrench.
- Turn the Bottom Bolts from inside the Engine Compartment, Looking Down. The Nuts are Captive. If Rust is Present, Spray the Bottom Side of the Bolts w/ Penetrating Fluid and Use a Wire Brush to Clean the Threads.

Rotate (2) AC / Electrical Wiring Brackets Down

Lift Out Radiator (much easier with 2 people)

I always do this during a Timing Belt / Water Pump Service, and I always remove the Battery for that Service.
Removing the Battery would give you more room to maneuver the Radiator out.

If you decide to do it yourself, send me a message and I'll send you the Torque Specs for when you are installing the new rad.

Good luck.
Tom