Market - question on 2008 Value (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gomotomoto
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- #22
I don't think Mixelplix meant covering up the rust. I think he was suggesting knocking off whatever you can with a wire wheel and spraying the film to prevent further corrosion. Fluid film is just that, a film that coats and protects from further rusting. You can still see what's going on with the metal underneath it. You don't actually hide anything, which is a better solution than POR 15.
I climbed under the truck with a knife. Can't dig in anywhere on the frame, welds, axles & bolts. It's 99% surface rust which is no big deal on these things. The frames as most know are beefier and mostly everything else is overbuilt. I mean has anyone ever seen perferations in a 200 series frame? I highly doubt it. Thing is just too thick.
Personally, I'd much rather have some surface rust on a truck that's never been wheeled or seen a trail. In a perfect world, you'd have a truck that's never been wheeled and has no rust, but then your back over 30k for a truck like that.
All feedback, even negative is appreciated. It let's me know what I'm looking out in the marketplace. Not stressed about it, it's an awesome truck, someone will want to pick it up at this price. Thanks again.
I'm familiar with Fluid Film. If you spray Fluid Film on a semi-rusty undercarriage, it's much harder to distinguish between the coating and the beginning of corrosion.
The frame isn't a concern as much as the fasteners are. Three frame can take a beating. Snapping fasteners is much more of a dick pain to deal with.
The frame isn't a concern as much as the fasteners are. Three frame can take a beating. Snapping fasteners is much more of a dick pain to deal with.
From someone who has been in the car business...you can ignore “trade in value” on edmunds, kbb, and the like. A dealer isn’t going to refer to those. They are going to refer to what they think that vehicle will actually bring on their lot, minus a solid $6K. And if they aren’t keeping the car, they are going to call around and get bids for the car from wholesalers.
If you are unable to readily sell it at $26,500, a retail dealer or wholesaler knows this full well, and isn’t going to give you $24K because some book says so.
If the retail market value of the car is a true $26,500, you’ll be lucky to get $20K trade in. That sounds outrageous, but dealers have a ton of risk and expenses and have to post a profit to stay in business.
If you are unable to readily sell it at $26,500, a retail dealer or wholesaler knows this full well, and isn’t going to give you $24K because some book says so.
If the retail market value of the car is a true $26,500, you’ll be lucky to get $20K trade in. That sounds outrageous, but dealers have a ton of risk and expenses and have to post a profit to stay in business.
I plugged in your car’s info into Manheim MMR and it says $21,800 is what a unit like the brings at auction. So dealers are going to offer you from $20-22K, depending on how much they want it.
I'm sorry if it came off as if I were trying to promote deception. I wasn't.
I just thought that if I were a buyer (and I recently was) I would be more likely to consider a truck that has had recent rust treatment and prevention than one that was actively rusting.
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- #28
I know nothing about the auctions. Q: if auctionshows 21.8, why would a dealer give me 22? Local car buyer has offered $22 in cash, but I believe I'm leaving $ on the table.
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- Thread starter
- #29
Going to drop it down to move....
Gomotomoto I just totaled my much loved 05 lx on Friday, I'm looking for a 200 series to replace. I live like 30 miles west of Boston, I'm gonna check your classified ad now.
Patrick
Patrick
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- #31
