MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor replacement

[IndecentExposur]

I've searched and researched this forum and others about replacing both a MAF and TPS sensors (I only spent an hour searching and learning) Although it seems pretty straight forward, my mechanic skills lack, and I usually end up screwing up things. So, here's my question:

I'm getting codes P0100 and P0110, which based on my research, has to do with a MAF sensor. Is fixing this as simple as changing a MAF sensor?

Is there a forum thread that clearly defines these codes and if a MAF sensor fixes it? if not, is be happy to thoroughly document this event.

 

[bajaphile]

The MAF's generally do not fail, at least from my experience from reading around on the forum. Ironically mine was replaced about 5 years ago.

Those codes are definitely MAF related, or wiring to the MAF related. You should carefully check the wiring harness that goes to the MAF (on the intake tube) and trace it back to the main harness branch. It does travel close to the exhaust manifold. Ensure there aren't any melted wires or damage. Unplug the connector to the back of the MAF and ensure the connections are clean, and ensure that the harness connector attaches well. I've seen a few where the connection locking tab has broken, so you just need to push it back in and use some electrical tape to hold it on (unless you want to splice in a new connector, which is best, but not required).

If all those things check out visually, you should learn how to use a multimeter and check the MAF via the factory service manual procedure. It really isn't that difficult. You're just checking the resistance values across a few of the connections and then verifying that the signal reaches the computer unit (wires are in tact).

You can also try buying some CRC Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner and spray the inside of the MAF down, let dry completely and see if that helps, but I wouldn't hold my breath for that.

 

[Tedward]

A new air mass flow sensor is over $600.00.
Perhaps you can use that as motivation to check the connector, wires, clean it and test it before you replace it.
Check your air intake tube very carefully for cracks as well.

 

[IndecentExposur]

I do have electrical skills, but I don't have an FSM. I'll order that. I can ring out the harness.

As of yesterday, the MAF from parts stores were about 130 bucks. I called Toyota, and they want $1000. Yikes. For 130, I don't mind giving it a shot.

Can someone take a pic of the wires and locations I can check?

 

[Tools R Us]

I do have electrical skills, but I don't have an FSM. I'll order that. I can ring out the harness.
...

For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

 

[Malleus]

Those are good (because they're free), but the TIS has the most updated material, plus information that was never included in any FSM:
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInf...urce_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F

 

[Malleus]

 

[Malleus]

 

[IndecentExposur]

OMG! Thank you so much!
How much does the TIS cost?

 

[Redclayrob]

Fyi, there is a guy on ebay that rebuilds the units for $119.
Warrenty for a year also.
Just look up MAF for 90's land cruiser and you should find him.
Think his user name is pullnparts4ya.

 

[Malleus]

OMG! Thank you so much!
How much does the TIS cost?

$15 for 48 hours. I downloaded two separate years, along with all the tech bulletins, collision reports and service bulletins. I had hours to spare.

 

[IndecentExposur]

So I rang out the harnesses and sensors. Everything checked out. The codes weren't updating though.

I cleared the codes, and then re-ran the diagnostics. No codes! Apparently these were older codes stored in the system? I jumped the closed circuit to get a temp high reading across terminals 3 and 4 for code P0110. It read correctly. So, I went back and clears the codes again, drove it and everything stayed clear.

I'm new to this, but I should've cleared the codes prior to all of this to begin with.

The cheap, wifi code reader was worth its weight in gold.

The truck does run and shift better, but I still could use an extra 100hp.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

So I rang out the harnesses and sensors. Everything checked out. The codes weren't updating though.

I cleared the codes, and then re-ran the diagnostics. No codes! Apparently these were older codes stored in the system? I jumped the closed circuit to get a temp high reading across terminals 3 and 4 for code P0110. It read correctly. So, I went back and clears the codes again, drove it and everything stayed clear.

I'm new to this, but I should've cleared the codes prior to all of this to begin with.

The cheap, wifi code reader was worth its weight in gold.

The truck does run and shift better, but I still could use an extra 100hp.

hi all.
old thread but i am trying to address this. can anyone clarify what is meant by "i rang out the harnesses and sensors"? i'm going to read the uploaded service manual pics but want to make sure i am not missing anything.
THANKS
jon

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Its a check for continuity, the meter (is so equipped) will make an audible tone if there is continuity.
It hearkens back to the day when electricians would use a bell with solenoid to check for continuity and it would ring.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Its a check for continuity, the meter (is so equipped) will make an audible tone if there is continuity.
It hearkens back to the day when electricians would use a bell with solenoid to check for continuity and it would ring.

ok. THANKS. so i picked up a fluke MM at a pawn shop while i try to bootstrap myself into some electrical knowledge.
so presumably i have some kind of continuity setting for volts (?) or amps or something and can just prove the leads as described in the uploaded service manual pictures?

 

[ppc]

Continuity is not amps or volts but the resistance measurement at zero or near zero means there is a proper connection. On your meter that is the 12 o'clock setting. In that mode the meter has a 9 volt battery that powers the meter readings. When taking the measurement there should not be any power to the circuit and any components disconnected that are not part of the test.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Continuity is not amps or volts but the resistance measurement at zero or near zero means there is a proper connection. On your meter that is the 12 o'clock setting. In that mode the meter has a 9 volt battery that powers the meter readings. When taking the measurement there should not be any power to the circuit and any components disconnected that are not part of the test.

thanks man. yeah. so ohms. i think i have a sound alert here somewhere. i will have to check.

anyway, basically i want to see 0?
and no power to the circuit or components basically just means key out or on off setting?

the deal is i can blow the meter by running power through the Ohm settting is that right?(!)

THA KA

 

[ppc]

May not blow the meter but certainly won't give you a proper reading. Zero is desired. Before making a resistance check you normally touch both probes together to confirm a zero reading to make sure the meter is functioning properly. Some meters have a zero calibration adjustment. Best thing to do is open up the meter you bought and change the battery.

You need to follow the test procedures in the FSM or the Electrical Manuals. It will indicate the setup.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

May not blow the meter but certainly won't give you a proper reading. Zero is desired. Before making a resistance check you normally touch both probes together to confirm a zero reading to make sure the meter is functioning properly. Some meters have a zero calibration adjustment. Best thing to do is open up the meter you bought and change the battery.

You need to follow the test procedures in the FSM or the Electrical Manuals. It will indicate the setup.

thanks...

 

[notathomie]

Just an FYI: I just bought a MAF sensor for US$220 (C130,000) direct from the agency here in Costa Rica for my 97. This does not include the MAF body, just the sensor. (Naturally, it turns out my MAF was fine. What I needed was US$15 fusible links.)