Jeep M38A1 "penrose" build thread

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Roastchestnuts

TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 15, 2019
Threads
101
Messages
2,955
Location
Ocracoke island North Carolina
I Picked this m38a1 willys on Saturday from a buddy of mine for a friends and family price. Its a 1952, Has a pinto 2.3L with the stock t90 and dana 18 tcase with the stock dana 25 and 44 front and rear axles.

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I believe this Jeep was a fire department brush jeep or something. has that wierd green yellow they would paint stuff and red in a-lot of places. and the silly reflector tape.
This thing needs alot of work. quite a few patches I need to burn in. typical rust in the rockers, the passenger pan is some sign or something self tapped in, and the rear floor pans have rust in them. the battery box bottom is shot as well but its All fixable. The biggest thing I need to source body wise is the upper windshield hinges. mine are pretty shot looks like I can find a right one but not the left. if anybody knows where to get a left let me know. I guess I could get 2 right ones and cut and weld something up. also does anybody know - the split window, does it have metal in between the two panes or is it just gasket? if its just gasket I might just replace the whole frame and hinges.

The biggest thing I gotta do is dig into the front axle. something is wrong in there as the Tcase spins the drive shaft but not the wheels. Hubs are locked. Kinda hopeing a hub or an axle is busted and not the ring and pinion. Those 5:38 gears are pricy. planning on taking the front cover off sometime this week and seeing if its the worst case scenario. I guess it could be spider gears too. (towed it everything in neutral and with the hubs unlocked)



Yesterday was spent cleaning and OSPHO ing and Commit washing. I used some temporary patina preserve at the end but I think I am going to clear it.
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Originally I was going to see about buying a new body for the m38a1 but the patina is sooooo good and really shines after some work. if patina is your kind of thing, this jeep is amazing!


Below a close up of the ART that was created from 74 years of use!
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I also got the little pony engine going. It needed a new fuel pump. slapped that in and now it starts first crank.
I want to make this thing a fun daily summer driver for where I live (ocracoke island)
SO I am going to make a check list of things to go through on here.
1. Dana 25 repair
2. Battery box replacement/repair.
3. Rockers
4. floor pans
5. Muffler (something is loose inside making some crazy noises. like a baffle came loose)
6. Tail lights. I think I want to go original
7. front turn signals I want to do the black out turn signal conversion
8 passenger head light repair.
9. factory ish Gages - I have 2 after market gages oil pressure and amp. both work at least and has gobbs of oil pressure. (have some gages coming and a gage bezel thing)
10. seats (bought Big WIllys seat cover and foam from the jeepsterman.com) and I need a factory rear seat set up. )
11. Gas tank pan. pretty sure mine is roached. I might be able to weld it up without replacing the whole thing. I just need to pull the tank to look.
12. windshield gasket and hinge repair.

I am sure more things will come up as I go on this project but this is my initial list.

I will update as I go.
 
I don't know if you've checked Kaiser Willys, but they might have what you're looking for

already have done lots of shopping there but they don't have it in stock either. they are great though! Ill probably get a canvas soft top from them eventually too.
 
Yesterday with Margot supervising I dove into the front Dana 25 and to why the drive shaft would spin but not the tires. Well I jacked the front end up, locked the hubs and spun the tires. It was not good. it made some crunching/grinding noises coming from the center.... it also bound up a few times. I knew it was not good. Margot just giggled when I asked her what she thought.

I decided to rip the bandaid off and pull the front diff cover off. Then I found the carnage.

At first glance it didn't look to bad. I mean the ring gear is not good looking... but it gets worse the more you look at it.
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Looking on the inside of the diff cover I found lots of glitter and a few small chunks....
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Then I found the spider gears.... or whats left of them.

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then there is more.... I found this crack in the carrier.
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Long story short Jonathan and I think that the carrier was cracked in the spot above prior and it was just not visible because he already replaced those gears once and did less than 30 miles off road. I think in those miles the crack got worse causing to much play in those gears causing them to eat themselves.

I went ahead and bought a whole new ring and pinion, carrier, and spider gears used below. not too bad at 300$ with shipping. I gotta get some of that yellow stuff to figure out my teeth engagement and a shim kit too. I will be blowing this front axle apart here soon I guess.
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Started getting some fun parts in! my NOS brake peddle came in and some military tail lights came in.


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This bent thing just bugged me. it also has a rust hole through it.
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Going to be installing these! should be better than what was in it!
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Took the roll bar off since I noticed it was not really reinforced anyway. also started looking at the wiring behind the dash.... scary scary. I gotta find a speedo cable for this! IDK why but the one that is still in it does not reach the area it needs too. I gotta look more into it and check if its just routed poorly.
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Updates - I got some bday gifts for the Heep project. I got some gages, and seat covers and cusions from thejeepsterman. I got their big willy seat covers. they should be here Friday.
https://thejeepsterman.com/products...2a-cj3a-cj3b-m38-m38a1?variant=45370008764653
Big Willy Canvas Front Seat Cover & Cushion Set, (1945-1971) Willys Je - https://thejeepsterman.com/products/big-willy-condura-canvas-front-seat-cover-cushion-set-1945-1971-willys-jeep-cj2a-cj3a-cj3b-m38-m38a1?variant=45370008764653

I purchesed the instrument panel Dzus studs and retainers. (apparently its a quick release type of fastner so you can easily access behind the panel. https://shop.midwestmilitary.com/product/instrument-panel-dzus-stud-kit/

I also purchased a NOS speedo cable because the one in the jeep was disconnected for a long time and full of grime and didnt spin. Hoping this will fix my problem.

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I put the military style rear turnsignal lamps in the back. Its what the jeep would have had. The trailer lights that were in it were god awful! they were also just siliconed glued in... hate that.
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Drove it to work and some on saturday. found out it kept loosing power to the coil. I think it was a loose wire on the ignition switch. crossing my fingers I figured that out.
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Got the Mig welder out and cut the old muffler out and welded in a new one.
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while the mig welder was out I repaired this hole from where a mirror broke off. I think they had bolted on a mirror here and then ran it into somthing and broke it off. Going to pull that antenna off and weld that hole up too soon.

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Well I got sent two amp gauges instead of a oil pressure gauge with my gauge kit. womp womp..... I emailed thejeepsterman.com and we will see if I can exchange one.
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Yes the oil pressure gage is upside down... its the one that was already in the jeep. Ill swap it out once I get a new one. everything works on there except the fuel gauge and the spedometer needs a new cable. even the backlights on the gages light up!

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The rest of my front axle stuff should start showing up this week soon too. Ill be sure to update as I install and repair!
 
Here for the show! :popcorn:

That's quite the patina! Make sure your tetanus shot is up to date.
Has Salted Pork started to show some jealousy?
 
Here for the show! :popcorn:

That's quite the patina! Make sure your tetanus shot is up to date.
Has Salted Pork started to show some jealousy?
It has caused some distraction from salted pork for sure... but its going to be a fun summer ride! Salted pork will get some new paintwork soon though!
 
I should have taken more photos but I pulled the hubs and axle shafts out. they are of the bendix variety.
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This is a feature that I really like. after you pull the hub, You can pull the drum backing plate with the pad assembly all together! takes no time at all! then you just pull the spindle off and pull the axle shafts out. I think I could probably pull each axle shaft on driver and passenger side side in 20 min now that I know what I am doing. One thing to note is driver side has reverse thread lug studs. I knew prior but if you don't know and you go uggadugging you will break those studs.
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these bendix axle shafts are weird! giant ball bearings kinda like a cv axle on a tacoma or somthing.
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Then a little more carnage... was kinda hoping the axle shafts were fine. this one is the drivers side one. the passengerside is fine with no issues. but the drivers side has 3 out of its 10 splines broken. after chewing on it all day I broke down and bought a new used one. I bought a used spicer one so there is a brass bushing I need to pull out of the axle tube and I will have to pull the knuckle off that side too. (what the internet is telling me) read the Note in the description on this site: Front Spicer Axle Shaft Assembly for Drivers Side (LH) Fits 41-71 Jeep & Willys with Dana 25 (10 Spline) - https://www.kaiserwillys.com/products/front-spicer-axle-shaft-assembly-for-drivers-side-lh-fits-41-71-jeep-willys-with-dana-25-10-spline/

this all brings me to my next note... I could not get leverage with the axle housing still attached so I am going to pull the whole thing out sometime this week. Ill take the time to clean it up and replace whats necessary. I have most all the seals to replace. I am going to keep the bearings though. they seemed newer temikins.


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I also ordered a new battery box bottom and some tie rod ends! I went ahead and blew the tirods apart too. Going to do the bell crank and the draglink too while I am in the area.
 
Alot has happened since I last posted. So below. the carrier was completely cracked and expanded causing it to be stuck in the housing. I had to take a cut off wheel and carefully cut the carrier in half to get it out. lots of missing teeth and carnage!

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Think I can still use this spider gear? hahaha
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It was nice having it all torn apart. I took time and cleaned it. removed the inner axle seals and installed new ones.
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I pressure washed everything, did some rust reform paint then I sprayed it with rustoleum satin black. I think it turned out nice.
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Installed the carrier and I had to remove and reinstall several times... I need a case spreader if I am going to do all that again. I finally got (not pictured) acceptable tooth engagement after 2 different shimmings.
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reinstalled the Dana 25. Did you know the Dana 25 fully assembled weighs about 170 to 200 lbs? I did this one by myself in the summer heat. but next time I may ask for help.
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It took me 2 trys to find the correct tie rods! Military jeeps use a 3/4 size threaded tie rod. one set came with the jeep but unfortunutly they were 11/16ths size threads. Then I ordered one from a reputable online retailer and they sent me 11/16s and then finally I ordered a set from Kaiser WIllys and they sent me the correct 3/4 inch size! Osha footwear
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Power washed wire-wheeled regreased painted and assymbled passenger side. I am waiting on a bendix axle shaft to complete the drivers side.
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This is where I stopped to enjoy My first fathers day!
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We took an off island trip for fathers day and It was amazing seeing Margot see the water from the window of the ferry.
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SO what do I have left LOTS... but I got a plate for it on monday. I need to finish up the drivers side and then bleed breaks. put gear oil in the diff, then I need to tune the carb. it was dumping fuel into the berral. I think its a fuel pressure thing. My land cruiser one did that untill I put one of those cheep regulators on it. It also has a new fuel pump since Its been running again. It also could be some needle and seat thing. I also just purchased a hand brake kit from Midwestmilitary so that will be nice to get that cool hand brake working. More to come!
 
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