M1101 build

[Tex68w]

Well this thing has made it's way back around to me via a buddy. It's a Schutt M1101 trailer like all of the tan/green carc painted ones you see from gov liquidation auctions. This one was never put into service, it was bought as a contract overrun new from the factory and the general use contractor style topper was built for it by a now defunct upfitter. Short of the twin 20# propane bottles on the front and the rear hitch receiver, it's exactly how it was purchased a few years back. Right now it sits on the military standard 37's with double bead-lock wheels and the noisy pintle-lunette setup.

Here are my plans for the build:

• Ditch the 5" drop straight axle in favor of a Timbren Axle-less suspension
• Abandon the hydraulic surge brakes for full electric
• Change the pintle-lunette setup for a Lock-N-Roll hitch
• Add a screened sliding window on the drivers side where the front tilt-up door is
• Build aluminum shelves the depth of the inner wheel well on the passenger side to allow for storage inside the flip-up doors on that side (kitchen/fridge)
• Enclosed trailer style roof rack for use with kayaks and possibly a RTT should it ever be needed
• 270 degree awning on the passenger side to cover the passenger side flip-ups while using the kitchen and it'll cover the rear doors for the entrance into the trailer
• Straight out awning on the drivers side, when combined with the 270 it'll be covered on three full sides
• Water tank beneath the trailer, likely in the 20-30 gallon range, plumbed with a pump for use as a wash down and for the shower
• Shower awning/enclosure on the front passenger side
• The interior will be insulated for sound and thermal and siliconed at all junctures, holes, gaps etc. to limit dirt/dust intrusion and then finished out in some way
• Lights and a two-way fan installed inside, I plan to skip a dedicated battery system and have everything run to my Bluetti portable power station

I hope to get started on this soon and work on it in stages in my free time in hopes of having this completed by years end.

 

[TN LX570]

@Tex68w did you make any progress on this last year? I've got an m1102 sitting in the garage that I'm planning to make my 2024 project.

 

[Tex68w]

@Tex68w did you make any progress on this last year? I've got an m1102 sitting in the garage that I'm planning to make my 2024 project.

A buddy took it off of my hands and then subsequently sold it. I sold the 200 as well and I am now in process of getting a FWC for part time use in my F250 Tremor that replaced the 200. We still have the GX460 and will likely grab the new GX550 Overtrail in year two.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I have one that the rag top is becoming shredded from sitting out in the weather and full of Land Cruiser parts.
When my FJ40 build is complete I will start on converting the trailer and tow with my 40. I hope I can back it it better with it then with my Ram3500. It is easy to move around with my John Deere and the 3point hitch.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I noticed that my tires are rotting and looks like one is sitting on the run flat. The price of 95% take off is about $200. Then not put the run flat donuts back in but would still have to run 2 spares.

I am trying to find the right part numbers for Dexter hub and brake drums so I can convert to 6 x 5.5" and get two more rims to match the rims on my 40 and would not need 2 different spares and cut down on the weight.

 

[Unimogguy]

Here’s the IH8MUD version of the Military Vehicle world:

Trailers

Post up with all your trailer pics, info, and question...

www.steelsoldiers.com

M1101 & M1102 Trailer TM’s:

Updated TM 9-2330-392-13&P M1101 & M1102 trailer TM.

Member mgFray found this updated TM 9-2330-392-13&P. Dated 2012.

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[POPO AGIE]

Thanks,
I am familiar with Steel Solders and through them found H1 tires are rims and how to remove the donut. But it just makes sense to run the same tire and rim as on my Land Cruiser and only need 1 spare as well and reduce the weight.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Here’s the IH8MUD version of the Military Vehicle world:

Trailers

Post up with all your trailer pics, info, and question...

www.steelsoldiers.com

M1101 & M1102 Trailer TM’s:

Updated TM 9-2330-392-13&P M1101 & M1102 trailer TM.

Member mgFray found this updated TM 9-2330-392-13&P. Dated 2012.

www.steelsoldiers.com

Thanks for the link for the manual. GE and Nuke procedures/work packages are much more complicated then the work packages in that manual. I like the Toyota manuals even better it has specs and tolerances and SST numbers.

I was able to find replacement bevel gears for the tongue jack through Steel Solders.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Well this thing has made it's way back around to me via a buddy. It's a Schutt M1101 trailer like all of the tan/green carc painted ones you see from gov liquidation auctions. This one was never put into service, it was bought as a contract overrun new from the factory and the general use contractor style topper was built for it by a now defunct upfitter. Short of the twin 20# propane bottles on the front and the rear hitch receiver, it's exactly how it was purchased a few years back. Right now it sits on the military standard 37's with double bead-lock wheels and the noisy pintle-lunette setup.

Here are my plans for the build:

• Ditch the 5" drop straight axle in favor of a Timbren Axle-less suspension
• Abandon the hydraulic surge brakes for full electric
• Change the pintle-lunette setup for a Lock-N-Roll hitch
• Add a screened sliding window on the drivers side where the front tilt-up door is
• Build aluminum shelves the depth of the inner wheel well on the passenger side to allow for storage inside the flip-up doors on that side (kitchen/fridge)
• Enclosed trailer style roof rack for use with kayaks and possibly a RTT should it ever be needed
• 270 degree awning on the passenger side to cover the passenger side flip-ups while using the kitchen and it'll cover the rear doors for the entrance into the trailer
• Straight out awning on the drivers side, when combined with the 270 it'll be covered on three full sides
• Water tank beneath the trailer, likely in the 20-30 gallon range, plumbed with a pump for use as a wash down and for the shower
• Shower awning/enclosure on the front passenger side
• The interior will be insulated for sound and thermal and siliconed at all junctures, holes, gaps etc. to limit dirt/dust intrusion and then finished out in some way
• Lights and a two-way fan installed inside, I plan to skip a dedicated battery system and have everything run to my Bluetti portable power station

I hope to get started on this soon and work on it in stages in my free time in hopes of having this completed by years end.

I have a M1101/2 trailer that I want to convert to a camper and tow with my RJ40. Where did you get the cap?

 

[Tex68w]

I have a M1101/2 trailer that I want to convert to a camper and tow with my RJ40. Where did you get the cap?

Company that made them in California for a hot minute; they are long gone and no longer in business.

 

[POPO AGIE]

There just is not a market for toppers for these trailers. I was thinking about making a telescopic frame and a roof top tent but don't want to be bear bate.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Last night the Wife and I searched the internet for replacement tires for the M1102 trailer to get the the best condition and price. Found 2 in Wisconsin and FedEx will deliver.

This morning I ordered bearings and seals from Amazon with this list I found on Steel Solders.
Timken 25520 Tapered Roller Bearing Outer Race Cup, Steel, Inch, 3.265" Outer Diameter, 0.7500" Cup Width
Timken 14276 Tapered Roller Bearing Outer Race Cup, Steel, Inch, 2.717" Outer Diameter, 0.6250" Cup Width
Timken 14124 Bearing this part number has been updated to Timken 14124A and did a search they are the same application.
Timken 25580 Axle Bearing

Just make sense I going through all the work to pull the tires and replace get the maintenance done and hope the brake shoes are in good condition.

I also ordered 4 valve stems from Amazon. They came in a set of 4 but I only needed 2 and I am not going to worry about my third spare. To heavy to mess with and theses tries are very robust. My just carry a repair kit.

I went to a site in Vegas Hummer Products and bought 2 O-rings to seal the two piece rim again. I will break down the rims in the barn and get rid of the old tires and run flat donuts and not even try to separate them from the old tires and then install in the replacement tires.

I did consider replacing the hubs to 6x5.5 and run the same tire and rim as the 40 but the parts were running up, then considered changing the rims to 17x9 3/4 or 1 ton rims to get cheaper tires and a different size. The pilot hole and the back set was a problem I could find the right pilot size or larger but the truck back set would have moved the center line of the tires out of sync with the bearings.. So the price of the tires from Wisconsin with shipping just made the most sense.

I also did some investigation on how to convert the trailer to a camping trailer. I have found the military's S-250 comms shelters are low enough in weight and will fit in the tub of the M1101/2 trailers. They seem to still be available and cost is not to bad and are not that hard to convert.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I was looking for YouTube videos for breaking down the tires and reassembly and since it has been a couple of years since I had looked into this. I saw that since I am not going to run the run flat donuts I needed PVC hummer wheel inserts from Trail Worth Fab so the tire and rims will seal.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I kept searching on YouTube for a method to separate the rim from the bead and break the seal on the O-ring and saw short video for breaking down an MRAP tire and he used a spoon and hammer to get the front section apart after removing the nuts. Then used chocks and flapped the tire over and dropped on the chocks to help loosen the back bead. Then used the spoon and hammer. Looks safer then using an engine hoist.