Lx450 Deflare (1 Viewer)

[Gunner56]

So the Lexus is significantly more aerodynamic now....

anybody ever bondo the holes? I would really like to weld, but the rust on the back, time involved, and possibility of warping the panel is putting me off. I know people have used tape with good success as well but I can’t help but feeling that a stray twig or 3year old finger would wind up causing headache. thoughts?
Fyi I will be Monstalining in either Pyro or Rolling coal.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

That's a lot of holes ... Maybe I'm not quite ready to de-flare The Bean.

 

[Gunner56]

Disregard.... fond the threads I was looking for that cover this extensively.

 

[EvanD]

Damn!

On trips I've ripped off 3/4 wheel flares and was hoping to do the same.

But as a previous poster said, that's a lot of holes!

I also have no welding skills/don't want to pay a pro and was considering the metal tape route. I didn't foresee any future issues (and was also figuring a similar coating). If it rips off somehow just slap some more on and spray that area again.

Then again, I care way more about function over form compared to many.

Curious to see the input here.

Edit -

Further thoughts on Bondo:

-Would probably work just fine although I'm curious about issues with backing. It's pretty thin stock so I'm not sure it would grab very well.
-A bunch of people will tell you it will kill resale/not work. The former are def prob right. I'm curious about the latter.

 

[clx16]

what about this to lessen the number of holes?

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[Gunner56]

I believe I’m going to go the steel stick route backed with either mesh or tape. That will at least provide some durability over bondo and still be sandable smooth

 

[Rusty Marlin]

What happens with this marker light after deflare? does it just get mounted to the body, or does a new marker light need to be soured?

 

[rolliges]

what about this to shorten lessen the number of holes?

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I like this route and the look is good too (especially on a white body).
May have to fill the holes in behind the strips though.

 

[clx16]

What happens with this marker light after deflare? does it just get mounted to the body, or does a new marker light need to be soured?
View attachment 2231734

You need a Lc marker light as that one will be too thick since it is made to stand out through the thickness of the plastic

 

[Gunner56]

That’s good info, I was wondering that myself

You need a Lc marker light as that one will be too thick since it is made to stand out through the thickness of the plastic

 

[sxp]

You can reuse the rear light. It just sticks out a bit. Stay away from using tape on the outside. The Monstaliner will eventually come off of it, and you will get blow through once the tape is exposed. I need to redo mine, and plan to use a combination of backing tape, JB Weld, and plastic plugs. I'm just not sure what is going where yet. I did my roof with JB Weld, and it has held up great.

If you buy the rub strips, post up pics. I'd like to see what they look like installed on top of Monstaliner.

 

[fjbj40]

Why not just cut up beer cans into 1.5” squares, butter them up with JB and put them inside. Once JB has set sand smooth and add more JB as required to get smooth.
The beer can will make it way stronger than tape or mesh.

 

[LandLocked93]

You could source doors not equipped with all the holes. But the p&b adds up quick there.

 

[sxp]

Why not just cut up beer cans into 1.5” squares, butter them up with JB and put them inside. Once JB has set sand smooth and add more JB as required to get smooth.
The beer can will make it way stronger than tape or mesh.

You could probably just glue the squares to the inside and JB from the outside.

 

[Gunner56]

Why not just cut up beer cans into 1.5” squares, butter them up with JB and put them inside. Once JB has set sand smooth and add more JB as required to get smooth.
The beer can will make it way stronger than tape or mesh.

That is an outstanding idea. I had some scrap steel laying around that I was thinking of using but it’s way too thick.

 

[fjbj40]

You could probably just glue the squares to the inside and JB from the outside.

The reason for butter-up for the inside is the cans are aluminum and the JB will prevent dissimilar metal corrosion, secondly it will be way stronger with the butter-up!

 

[sxp]

The reason for butter-up for the inside is the cans are aluminum and the JB will prevent dissimilar metal corrosion, secondly it will be way stronger with the butter-up!

You could be right, I'm not sure. I don't recall JB being very user friendly when it comes to spreadability. Perhaps they offer a different product that works better than the stick?

 

[fjbj40]

You could be right, I'm not sure. I don't recall JB being very user friendly when it comes to spreadability. Perhaps they offer a different product that works better than the stick?

The tubes of JB are spreadable.

 

[FJsapper]

I used bondo with the fiberglass stuff impregnated. Put it over drywall tape. Held up for 3 years now. I did the lighter stuff on a few spots and it cracked. I planed to use monstaliner but haven’t gotten to it yet.

 

[FJsapper]