LX Subwoofer Replacement

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Source the audio from a speaker nearby or run it all the way to the head unit? I wonder if my head unit even has an output for it.
You'll want to source from a full range speaker, typically thats the rear doors. The line output convertor will give you the amp connection you need to give signal to the amp.
 
@Sajan what year do you have? The 08 09 10 are super easy and already have a full range line out/ 2V output at the amp or behind the HU.
 
@Sajan what year do you have? The 08 09 10 are super easy and already have a full range line out/ 2V output at the amp or behind the HU.
mine's a 2018. i have no clue how the back of the unit looks. i would guess it's similar??

I think the ML radio looks like this:

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In the 2013+ I believe that the audio framework for signal between the amp and HU changed to a CAN system and the full range low level L and R signal isn’t available anymore. It is hazy recollection as I don’t pay total attention to the generations beyond 1, so maybe search for some threads on that, there are a couple.
If your amp is still working then the best signal to grab is the existing high level sub output, and then add an amp with bass processing restoration such as the AudioControl Epicenter functionality.
 
Quick update...I was able to swap out my ML sub for a Rockford Fosgate R2D4-10 Prime R2 4-Ohm DVC 10” Subwoofer. Mine didn't have anything in it about a break-in period. Sound is good for the kind of music I like (rock/metal). I wasn't looking for a massive upgrade. Thanks so much for all of the information on this very niche bit of LX570 functionality!
My sub is blown as well in my 2011. I'm looking at sourcing that same fosgate driver. Did you do anything with a spacer and or new terminals?

I haven't opened anything up back there
 
Not a whole lot documented on the subject of sub replacement. Lots of guesses or "this is what you could do" so I figured I'd share my project.

Sub replacement on 08 LX with ML. I went fairly cheap to make sure I could get it to work first. Let me start by saying I'm no audiophile. Maybe I'll tear it down again and go with a shallow audiocontrol sub and port the box for a little more rumble than punchy, but I'm content for now.

The LX uses a 10" 8ohm sub compared to the 8" that the LC uses (cant remember the ohm on LC). I initially tried this cheap 10" dual voice coil 4ohm sub wired to 8ohm and it sounded like garbage on stock amp/wiring. I then jumped down the rabbit hole of piggy backing an amp fed by line output converter. I used an Audio control LC1i to grab rear door signal from the factory amp under driver seat. Used that to convert signal to the RCAs going to the Recoil DI600.1 amp. I was able to fit the LOC and amp on a 3d printed mount in front of the sub box. I did give up the cupholder and storage area for the right side 3rd row, which is not installed anyways, but I'll repurpose the holes with 3d printed cover plates with some USB's and aux power for the rear. I mounted the remote bass control knob in the ash tray so its tucked away, will print a cover plate for that as well.

Overall I'm very happy with this basic setup.

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I just ordered a 1 inch spacer ringand it looks from your picture as if i could even stack two if needed. I have a Resonix Gus 10 on the way and I was concerned it wouldnt fit.
 
I just ordered a 1 inch spacer ringand it looks from your picture as if i could even stack two if needed. I have a Resonix Gus 10 on the way and I was concerned it wouldnt fit.
Great! One spacer ring should work fine, two may start to interfere with the ribs and backing of the sub grille portion of the panel but that's just a guess after having mine apart!
 
Great! One spacer ring should work fine, two may start to interfere with the ribs and backing of the sub grille portion of the panel but that's just a guess after having mine apart!
I had to use the dremel a but to make space but now the Sub will fit.

Any idea how many cubic feet this enclosure is?

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If your amp is still working then the best signal to grab is the existing high level sub output, and then add an amp with bass processing restoration such as the AudioControl Epicenter functionality.
Maybe I missed something but why didn't the OP start this way? Tapping subwoofer speaker level signal and properly re-amping can give some amazing results. And easier access for the speaker lead as well.
 
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