went through the same thing. They said i needed a new TB, but Mud said different. All i needed to replace was the TPS.
$300 later and good as new.
$300 later and good as new.
loss of power!
- Thread starter AFRIKANZ
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- Thread starter
- #22
Have replaced the TPS...........
Have you considered replacing the APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor)? The problem in the 98 and 99s was often in the APPS even though the code read "TPS problem".
Quoting myself from the FAQ
Toyota upgraded the APPS part# 4 times IRRC, but the TPS part number has been unchanged. The APPS is a more expensive part but if replaced will most likely fix the problem and is still much cheaper than an entire TB.
The TB needs cleaned at the flap as "gunk" build-up can result in CEL codes as is well covered in the FAQ thread on the subject.
Quoting myself from the FAQ
Repeated occurrences are usually solved by the replacement of the APPS (~$270) and sometimes the TPS. (~$70). R&R covered in the FSM SF-35.
Toyota upgraded the APPS part# 4 times IRRC, but the TPS part number has been unchanged. The APPS is a more expensive part but if replaced will most likely fix the problem and is still much cheaper than an entire TB.
The TB needs cleaned at the flap as "gunk" build-up can result in CEL codes as is well covered in the FAQ thread on the subject.
actually, APPS is what i meant, not TPS. I inittally thought it was the TPS, but i finally got a good Toyota tech that said not to bother with the TPS it will not solve your problem....replace the APPS and clean your TB......
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks for the insight. Am assuming te APPS is the one where the cable connects to, circular plack- opposite end to TPS?
Brings me back to prpblem #1- Cannot locate the plug for the disgnostic. It is not in the position as shown in above. Need to find this to diagnose. Only plug I could locate was under the bonnet, need airbox.
Car is booked in at another dealer for Tuesday but from my last experience with last dealer, I'd rather do it at home.
Brings me back to prpblem #1- Cannot locate the plug for the disgnostic. It is not in the position as shown in above. Need to find this to diagnose. Only plug I could locate was under the bonnet, need airbox.
Car is booked in at another dealer for Tuesday but from my last experience with last dealer, I'd rather do it at home.
- Thread starter
- #27
it's RHD
- Thread starter
- #28
Dealer says it keeps throwing the TPS fault. Could the APPS be doing this?
Dealer wants 4hrs to investigate, means £400+
PLEASE HELP!!
Dealer wants 4hrs to investigate, means £400+
PLEASE HELP!!
£400 = $781 
The twits are paid well enough! I'd hate to see what they charge when they know what to fix.
Yes - thats it. A throttle-cable reel-looking device.
You can measure the resistance of the APPS between terminals VC and E2 at the APPS and it should be 1.25-2.35 kohms at 20 deg C (68 deg F). If other than that the manual says to replace it.
Yes - Many problems seen presenting TPS codes were only resolved with replacement of the APPS. Replacing the APPS is very easy according to those who have done it and the part should be well under £400. If I were in your position I'd do it myself.
Per my MaxEllery manual you can check codes by shorting the TE1 and E1 terminals in your check connector (called DLC1) and then read the flashes of the CEL to read the code.
- do this with engine at operating temp, transmission in neutral,all accessories off and throttle closed
- turn ignition switch to on (not start)
- short TE1 and E1 (or alternatively CG[4] and TC[13] depending on what diagnostic link connector you have)
- now the CEL will flash with the code
- blinks every half second for the first digit then 1.5 second pause second digit, if there is a second code there is a 2.5 second pause then second code, followed by a 4.5 second pause after all codes have been displayed. Then the codes will repeat.
I don't have the chart to convert these codes to a Diagnostic Trouble Code but others on here do.
The twits are paid well enough! I'd hate to see what they charge when they know what to fix. Yes - thats it. A throttle-cable reel-looking device.
You can measure the resistance of the APPS between terminals VC and E2 at the APPS and it should be 1.25-2.35 kohms at 20 deg C (68 deg F). If other than that the manual says to replace it.
Yes - Many problems seen presenting TPS codes were only resolved with replacement of the APPS. Replacing the APPS is very easy according to those who have done it and the part should be well under £400. If I were in your position I'd do it myself.
Per my MaxEllery manual you can check codes by shorting the TE1 and E1 terminals in your check connector (called DLC1) and then read the flashes of the CEL to read the code.
- do this with engine at operating temp, transmission in neutral,all accessories off and throttle closed
- turn ignition switch to on (not start)
- short TE1 and E1 (or alternatively CG[4] and TC[13] depending on what diagnostic link connector you have)
- now the CEL will flash with the code
- blinks every half second for the first digit then 1.5 second pause second digit, if there is a second code there is a 2.5 second pause then second code, followed by a 4.5 second pause after all codes have been displayed. Then the codes will repeat.
I don't have the chart to convert these codes to a Diagnostic Trouble Code but others on here do.
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- Thread starter
- #30
Excellent, thanks for the info! I've ordered the APPS which should be here tomorrow. Paid £215 Thought I'd do that first, myself before paying the £400 to find the fault. "If" the APPS doesn't cure the problem, then guuess I'll need to find the £400!
They xall it the "accelerator lever" or something along the lines when I ordered it.
Ho do I reset the CEL using the above technique?
Also, anyone have list of codes please?
IH8MUD ROCKS!
They xall it the "accelerator lever" or something along the lines when I ordered it.
Ho do I reset the CEL using the above technique?
Also, anyone have list of codes please?
IH8MUD ROCKS!
Pull the EFI fuse for a minute or so.
Last edited:
Just thought I would add, that someone tried this recently on the 80' forum, and did it incorrectly. I believe he got lucky and just blew a fuse, but do this with caution, and make sure you have the right terminals, otherwise you may have end up causing some electrical issues.
This link has the codes and instructions on how to pull codes on a OBD1 system.
Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical
OBD1 Codes
1 Normal Condition.
2 Air Flow Meter signal.
3 Ignition signal.
4 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
5 Oxygen Sensor.
6 RPM signal (Crank Angle Pulse).
7 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
8 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
9 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
10 Starter signal.
11 Switch signal.
11 ECU/ECM.
12 Knock Control Sensor signal.
12 RPM signal.
13 Knock Control CPU (ECM).
13 RPM signal.
14 Turbocharger Pressure.
14 Ignition signal.
21 Oxygen Sensor.
22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
23 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
24 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
25 Air-Fuel Ratio Lean.
26 Air-Fuel Ratio Rich.
27 Sub Oxygen Sensor signal.
28 No. 2 Oxygen Sensor signal.
31 Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal).
32 Air Flow Meter signal.
34 Turbocharger Pressure signal.
35 Turbocharger Pressure Sensor signal.
35 HAC Sensor signal.
41 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
42 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
43 Starter signal.
51 Switch signal.
52 Knock Sensor signal.
53 Knock Sensor signal.
54 Inter-cooler ECM signal.
71 EGR System.
72 Fuel Cut Solenoid signal.
78 Fuel Pump Control signal.
81 TCM Communication.
83 TCM Communication.
84 TCM Communication.
85 TCM Communication.
Notice that the OBD1 does not differentiate between TPS/APPS problems the way that OBD2 codes do.
Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical
OBD1 Codes
1 Normal Condition.
2 Air Flow Meter signal.
3 Ignition signal.
4 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
5 Oxygen Sensor.
6 RPM signal (Crank Angle Pulse).
7 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
8 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
9 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
10 Starter signal.
11 Switch signal.
11 ECU/ECM.
12 Knock Control Sensor signal.
12 RPM signal.
13 Knock Control CPU (ECM).
13 RPM signal.
14 Turbocharger Pressure.
14 Ignition signal.
21 Oxygen Sensor.
22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
23 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
24 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
25 Air-Fuel Ratio Lean.
26 Air-Fuel Ratio Rich.
27 Sub Oxygen Sensor signal.
28 No. 2 Oxygen Sensor signal.
31 Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal).
32 Air Flow Meter signal.
34 Turbocharger Pressure signal.
35 Turbocharger Pressure Sensor signal.
35 HAC Sensor signal.
41 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
42 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
43 Starter signal.
51 Switch signal.
52 Knock Sensor signal.
53 Knock Sensor signal.
54 Inter-cooler ECM signal.
71 EGR System.
72 Fuel Cut Solenoid signal.
78 Fuel Pump Control signal.
81 TCM Communication.
83 TCM Communication.
84 TCM Communication.
85 TCM Communication.
Notice that the OBD1 does not differentiate between TPS/APPS problems the way that OBD2 codes do.
- Thread starter
- #34
Waiting for post today, hopefully, APPS lands today! Have been without the car for 2 weeks, miss her terribly!
Thankls for the additional info guys! Priceless!
I disconnected the battery the other day to see if the CEL would reset. Car had trouble starting afterwards, think maybe the immobiliser kicked in? Took a good 15 mins to start............
Thankls for the additional info guys! Priceless!
I disconnected the battery the other day to see if the CEL would reset. Car had trouble starting afterwards, think maybe the immobiliser kicked in? Took a good 15 mins to start............
- Thread starter
- #35
put APPS on, removed efi fuse, replaced fuse, started car............. still no joy...........
even cleaned throttle body
With the car runnimng, disconnecting the APPS makes no difference.
WHAT'S GOPING ON? sob.............
And, no TE1 and E1 (or alternatively CG[4] and TC[13] ...................... no "plug/wire" where TE1 should be.............
even cleaned throttle body
With the car runnimng, disconnecting the APPS makes no difference.
WHAT'S GOPING ON? sob.............
And, no TE1 and E1 (or alternatively CG[4] and TC[13] ...................... no "plug/wire" where TE1 should be.............
damn, that really sucks. Everything you described pointed to APPS. Did you install yourself?
- Thread starter
- #37
How is the throttle driven? Is that a motor? Could that have a fault?...........
- Thread starter
- #38
just done it, wasn't terribly hard to do, 3 screw and it slots in............
if i remember correctly you have to have a tool to align it properly. If it is slightly off it aint gonna work.....
that is if i remember correctly...
- Thread starter
- #40
Alright, anyone with more info on this?
It looked like it just slotted straighit in...............