Lift wrap up help

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Feb 13, 2020
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Chandler, AZ
Well it’s been an all weekend odyssey but I’m wrapping up the rear end. Got a few last minute questions if you guys have a min.

Torque specs I can’t seem to find:
Sway bar end links front (where they attach to the control arm)
Pan hard bar

Any know if it matters which end I put the adjustable link in my new panhard bar? Ironman had no instructions on install at all. I just set it 1/8” longer than stock for now (2” lift).
 
Send the adjustable bar back and put your stocker in. No need for a 2" lift.

Torque specs on sway bar? Just get it tight. Over time you get a feel for adequate tightness on bolts. Don't overdo it. I save my torque wrench for parts that move or see a lot of heat cycles, like the water pump/etc. No need for suspension parts just don't overdo it.
 
Send the adjustable bar back and put your stocker in. No need for a 2" lift.

Torque specs on sway bar? Just get it tight. Over time you get a feel for adequate tightness on bolts. Don't overdo it. I save my torque wrench for parts that move or see a lot of heat cycles, like the water pump/etc. No need for suspension parts just don't overdo it.
I agree. When I was young, I felt like I had to gorilla tighten everything. As a kid, don't know how many time I've stripped and sheared bolts. I think I was still learning my own strength. Now I have that feel of just when it's tight enough for the type of bolt and application. Had to teach one of my daughters old boy friends the same thing. Big guy, and he'd just muscle everything down. Had to show him how to give it one good last bit of torque without continually bearing down on it until something breaks or strips. He learned well.
But I do still use my torque wrench when required, e.g. lug nuts and like you said other moving parts.
 
I agree. When I was young, I felt like I had to gorilla tighten everything. As a kid, don't know how many time I've stripped and sheared bolts. I think I was still learning my own strength. Now I have that feel of just when it's tight enough for the type of bolt and application. Had to teach one of my daughters old boy friends the same thing. Big guy, and he'd just muscle everything down. Had to show him how to give it one good last bit of torque without continually bearing down on it until something breaks or strips. He learned well.
But I do still use my torque wrench when required, e.g. lug nuts and like you said other moving parts.
Send the adjustable bar back and put your stocker in. No need for a 2" lift.

Torque specs on sway bar? Just get it tight. Over time you get a feel for adequate tightness on bolts. Don't overdo it. I save my torque wrench for parts that move or see a lot of heat cycles, like the water pump/etc. No need for suspension parts just don't overdo it.
Copy. Torqued em to spec anyway since this was my first foray under the car in a couple decades. I kept the pan hard bar in because... well because it was already in by the time I read that. I appreciate the insight.
 
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My personal decision as to whether to use a torque wrench, or just wing it, is usally governed by the consequences of potential failure... "If this bolt backs out while I'm on the freeway, what is going to happen?" Along those lines, I've also started using a lot more thread locker lately.

Sway bar bolt comes loose? Nothing major happens. A bit more body roll and a flopping end link until you fix it. Pan hard? Maybe a little more serious implications if you lose one end of that while driving. I'll disagree with @jiggletits generalization about "all" suspension parts not needing proper torque. Upper control arm through bolt being a perfect example. If that nut backs off while driving and the bolt backs out (which it will, ask me how I know), bad, bad things happen.
 
Congratulations on the DIY install. Other than the Ironman video, any tips for those about to undertake the journey?
Yeah, have someone else do it. J/k. It wasn't easy though and they dont have comprehensive instructions. The airbag delete video only covers the 470. The kit doesn’t have bolts that works for the 460, you have to cut .25” off the linger ones… and oh yeah, dont drop the spring seat as soon as you open the kit, or add an hour or so of careful filing to fix the threads.

I’ll do a comprehensive video that covers everything they missed here - wastingtimeinthewoods.com in about 3-4 weeks.
 
Another Ironman gripe....their rear shock instructions for the 470 aren't accurate. They tell you to use all 4 washers and 2 rubber bushings for the upper mount. The stock 470 shocks use an upper-top washer, no lower-top washers, and then both an upper- and lower-bottom washer (3 total). I followed their instructions and the shock would not seat as the top-lower washer is too big to fit in the 470 frame hole. After trading a few emails with their tech support (who initially assured me I needed all 4 washers before he talked to their installer) they finally said the 470 only needs 3 washers :rolleyes:. I then asked if they could send me some new bushings and a locknut since mine had been ran that way kind of tweaked and not seated for months. They said they don't keep them outside of the complete kits and referred me to a hardware store.

So it seems like they kind of lumped some 460/470 things together in this kit and don't really explain it in their instructions. They could have easily clarified the 470/460 rear shock mount differences in the instructions/video, and could have easily included a 460 and 470 set of bolts for the rear coil conversion and noted it in their instructions as well. I suggested they update their instructions - perhaps you should do the same with the rear coil conversation bolts.

Otherwise....it is a great kit and the quality is really good. I bombed down lots of rutted/potholed gravel yesterday in mine and it put a big smile on my face with how well the GX rides and how controlled it is. I've also been impressed when towing with it.
 
Another Ironman gripe....their rear shock instructions for the 470 aren't accurate. They tell you to use all 4 washers and 2 rubber bushings for the upper mount. The stock 470 shocks use an upper-top washer, no lower-top washers, and then both an upper- and lower-bottom washer (3 total). I followed their instructions and the shock would not seat as the top-lower washer is too big to fit in the 470 frame hole. After trading a few emails with their tech support (who initially assured me I needed all 4 washers before he talked to their installer) they finally said the 470 only needs 3 washers :rolleyes:. I then asked if they could send me some new bushings and a locknut since mine had been ran that way kind of tweaked and not seated for months. They said they don't keep them outside of the complete kits and referred me to a hardware store.

So it seems like they kind of lumped some 460/470 things together in this kit and don't really explain it in their instructions. They could have easily clarified the 470/460 rear shock mount differences in the instructions/video, and could have easily included a 460 and 470 set of bolts for the rear coil conversion and noted it in their instructions as well. I suggested they update their instructions - perhaps you should do the same with the rear coil conversation bolts.

Otherwise....it is a great kit and the quality is really good. I bombed down lots of rutted/potholed gravel yesterday in mine and it put a big smile on my face with how well the GX rides and how controlled it is. I've also been impressed when towing with it.
They sponsored my lift and the video Im going to make so I’ll make sure to bring this and my issues to their attention. Probably won’t help but maybe they’ll listen a little closer knowing Im about to make their video.
 
They sponsored my lift and the video Im going to make so I’ll make sure to bring this and my issues to their attention. Probably won’t help but maybe they’ll listen a little closer knowing Im about to make their video.
I should start making videos! :) Will watch yours when it gets posted.

I'll be curious on if my suggestion regarding the 460/470 rear upper shock mounts made it up the chain.
 
Last edited:
Well it’s been an all weekend odyssey but I’m wrapping up the rear end. Got a few last minute questions if you guys have a min.

Torque specs I can’t seem to find:
Sway bar end links front (where they attach to the control arm)
Pan hard bar

Any know if it matters which end I put the adjustable link in my new panhard bar? Ironman had no instructions on install at all. I just set it 1/8” longer than stock for now (2” lift).

Rule of thumb is to add 1/16” in length for every inch of lift. So you should be good at 1/8”.

Do not send the Ironman panhard back and put the stock one back in as suggested above. The bends in the bar along with the spacers will allow the kdss sway bar to clear the panhard when in full droop.
 
Congratulations on the DIY install. Other than the Ironman video, any tips for those about to undertake the journey?
The video is good but make sure to disconnect the front sway bar… and for the love of god, disconnect both front and rear from the piston and static rod. Do not remove them at the front lca and rear axle… you’ll wrestle all day trying to them lined back up and bolted back in.
 
You guys all f***ing rock. Thank you for all the help. It was a way bigger job than I anticipated but managed not to kill myself thanks to you. Going to do one more post on the main forum with after lift questions so I can get as many eyeballs and opinions as possible.
 
You guys all f***ing rock. Thank you for all the help. It was a way bigger job than I anticipated but managed not to kill myself thanks to you. Going to do one more post on the main forum with after lift questions so I can get as many eyeballs and opinions as possible.
Everyone, put in your beer requests with Jake!!!
Again, I'll take mine as described above. ;)
Seriously, really glad it all came off good for you, along with all the experience taken in!
 

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