CJ, didn't you have a lot of grinding on the arms to get the tie rod to not hit?
lift, castor and spring bind..what if adding more lift?
- Thread starter concretejungle
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- Thread starter
- #22
I did grind, but not much at all. Maybe 1/4 inch in a small area of the arm.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=63979&page=4
Look at post #100
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Concrete,
If I remember right castor changes -1.7 per inche of height increase so you are basically at 3" right now (2.5" OME-medium = .5" spacer)
Your castor is at +5 so if you leave everything else the way it is and raise it then you get:
4" - Castor = +3.3
5" - Castor = +1.6
With an ARB bumber and winch you want it will come down an inch and the castor will go back up =1.7
Either of these will work and you already have the DC, so you don't have anything to worry about drive shaft wise.
So you just need springs, shocks, brake lines, adjustable pan-hard, adj draglink, misc drop blocks/brackets.
You path to no grr has been set
If I remember right castor changes -1.7 per inche of height increase so you are basically at 3" right now (2.5" OME-medium = .5" spacer)
Your castor is at +5 so if you leave everything else the way it is and raise it then you get:
4" - Castor = +3.3
5" - Castor = +1.6
With an ARB bumber and winch you want it will come down an inch and the castor will go back up =1.7
Either of these will work and you already have the DC, so you don't have anything to worry about drive shaft wise.
So you just need springs, shocks, brake lines, adjustable pan-hard, adj draglink, misc drop blocks/brackets.
You path to no grr has been set
From what I got is that he has some vibs now when the DC shaft is installed. Raising the truck won't help that I'm afraid. This is do to the fact that the drive shaft and arms are close in their movement and there won't be a big change at the diff flange as far as drive angles goes.
If you want the truck to run smooth you need to measure that front drive angle and then correct that.
If you want the truck to run smooth you need to measure that front drive angle and then correct that.
- Thread starter
- #25
tank, i've kicked the idea around all day to order slee's 3degree bushings, take measurements of my front drive angle and then have you set me up a template. Then sell the plates to my roommy with his jlift.
From the two guys at this point who have used my template when installing Slee's blue bushing their caster came in just short of 1.5* and no drive line vibs with a stock shaft.
The one variable here is what their height actually is. You can't base it on springs used as it's also load dependent.
This is really what we need to do. Standardize a way of measuring our height and then catalogue correction methods and results at those heights. But that's another thread.