LHD BJ73 - OME Leaf Spring Correction (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 15, 2019
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Location
Colorado
'89 LHD BJ73 w/ 3BII - I'm posting this to inform my fellow LHD BJ73 owners of my findings with OME suspension lifts.

Yesterday I finally managed to level out my BJ73 with a leaf spring swap on the rear passenger side.

The problem stems from being sold an Old Man Emu lift kit by a very reputable outfitter, and taking their suggestion of either two "A" springs or two "B" springs for the rear, the latter resulting in slightly less rake. I went with the first to achieve more rake for loading ability.

* I will add that my land cruiser has no heavy aftermarket mods (front and rear bumper are stock, no winch, no spare tank, no drawers, no fridge, nothin!) *

After installing the two "A" springs in the rear (as well as new front springs and hardware all around) my cruiser had a pronounced lean to the driver's side (left). I drove like this for a few thousand miles with no settling - the lean persisted. A bit of research revealed that OME actually recommends an A/B combo - an A for the drivers side and a B for the passenger side.

1629130043146.png


After swapping the rear passenger "A" for a "B", the truck was finally level! To some, this may seem obvious (duh, OME said so!), but I found a lot of misinformation out there - both on the forums and from VERY reputable retailers. 60 series experts will be quick to tell you that you need an A/B combo on the rear for those vehicles, but the MWB 70 series seems to be ambiguous, so I hope my experience gives some clarification.

Again, my vehicle does not have any heavy mods, so if yours does, then this may not apply. Because I am working with a stock setup (other than suspension), I believe my experience is a pretty good baseline for other LHD BJ73 owners.

It would be great to hear the OME lift experience from other owners of BJ73's. Perhaps the RHD versions have enough weight on the right side to balance the vehicle with identical rear springs? Maybe this is only a LHD thing?
 
I have a 2” kit waiting to go into my 94 FZJ73. Are you aware of the “+”, “0” and “-“ stenciled on the innermost leaf? The marks are next to the arrow that points to the fixed end of the spring. They have to do with wether they are slightly above, at, or below height spec.
 
My BJ73 has an OME setup with A and B springs in the rear ... and it leans to the left. I drove it that way about 4000km now and it is not settling in.
Thus, I doubt using A and B springs actually does the trick.
There are some more aspects to consider:
There are +, - and O rated springs, as @thebill correctly pointed out.
There is also a vague statement from the manufacturer, which spring goes on what side: The indication is 'passenger / driver side'.
I interpreted 'driver side' to be the right side, as the countries of the cars manufacturer (JP) as well as the OME springs (AUS) are both RHD countries.
But I also found reports of working setups where that had been put the other way around, intentionally or due to a different interpretation on LHD vehicles. From my research on the matter I got the impression, one should test a few spring combos to find the right setup.
But who can afford to easily swap out springs? Which vendor supports this? Not to consider the pita to do the install?
My learning:
I would recommend to have OME springs to be installed by a professinal workshop with the vendor. It would be the workshops issue then to sort the leaning.
As this comes with extra costs, I would maybe not go for OMEs again at all, just due to this mess.
But happy to hear your rig is level now!
Enjoy it.
 
I have a 2” kit waiting to go into my 94 FZJ73. Are you aware of the “+”, “0” and “-“ stenciled on the innermost leaf? The marks are next to the arrow that points to the fixed end of the spring. They have to do with wether they are slightly above, at, or below height spec.
Yep, my retailer supplied me with two "matched" CS017RA springs for the rear, both "+" spec. The (combined) difference in height between "+" and "-" on these springs is no more than 6mm (tolerance is +/- 3mm according to OME). My vehicle needed ~ 20mm of correction based on hub to wheel arch measurement, so although a mixed tolerance setup would help, it would not get me to level stance. Plus, tolerance can only be picked from a vendor who has collection to choose from, they come random from OME if ordered directly.

The difference between a CS017RA and CS017RB, however, is 20mm (+/- 6mm) with the A being the higher of the two - exactly what the doctor ordered in my case. Luckily my B spring came as a "+" spec, same tolerance mark as my existing A spring.

1629741117428.png


@Felde I'm curious; what orientation vehicle do you own, LHD or RHD? Which side did you place the A spring? Do you have any heavy mods?

My understanding (and what checks out from my experience) is that the higher spring (A in this case) should go on the driver's side. For example, mine is LHD, so the A goes on the left. When thinking about it this way, manufactured world area doesn't matter, just put the tall spring on the driver's side! This is to compensate for the added weight of the driver, steering column assembly, and probably a few more orientation-related components.

FYI, here is a link to OME's application guide: ARB 4x4 Accessories - Old Man Emu International Application Catalogue | Edition 45 - Page 1 - https://view.publitas.com/arb-4x4-accessories-1/old-man-emu-international-application-catalogue-edition-36/page/1
 
@Felde I'm curious; what orientation vehicle do you own, LHD or RHD? Which side did you place the A spring? Do you have any heavy mods?

My understanding (and what checks out from my experience) is that the higher spring (A in this case) should go on the driver's side. For example, mine is LHD, so the A goes on the left. When thinking about it this way, manufactured world area doesn't matter, just put the tall spring on the driver's side! This is to compensate for the added weight of the driver, steering column assembly, and probably a few more orientation-related components.
I have a LHD 1985 3b BJ73, no heavy mods except for a winch.
My rear A-spring is on the right side, 'RHD driver side'.
I heard that argument of drivers weight, driver side oriented distribution etc. before. It makes sense to me in the front. (I once owned a UK brand 4x4 with different springs in the front, but mainly because the engine being off center).
I never understood why LC BJs have same springs in front (where all the orientation related differences are located), but different springs only in the back.
I actually did some research on the A/B side problem prior to my insrall, as I wasn't (and still aren't) sure about the manufacturers intention.
'Driver's weight' I actually regard to be a nonsense argument. Why are two or even 3 front seats fitted? If the vehicle needs a special spring setup for one driver to be level, one or two passengers would then put it off level again... ?
My arguments for A to the right were
- A is indicated as 'driver side' by the manufacturer from a RHD country for a vehicle of a manufacturer also from a RHD country.
- With diffs (unsprung mass) and T-case on the right, general weight distribution on the LC appears to me to be oriented to the right side (mostly independent of the driver side orientation). Hard to estimate, though. Did anybody ever put the BJ73 on wheel scales?
Well, maybe I was wrong. Once I find the time I may swap the springs and will see the difference.

But thank you for your insights, thoughts and the link.
Good luck with your approach. I'm curious on the result. You are lucky to have a supplier who is willing to get it right. When I ask my supplier, all I got was 'RTFM'.
Cheers
Ralf
 
I have a LHD 1985 3b BJ73, no heavy mods except for a winch.
My rear A-spring is on the right side, 'RHD driver side'.
I heard that argument of drivers weight, driver side oriented distribution etc. before. It makes sense to me in the front. (I once owned a UK brand 4x4 with different springs in the front, but mainly because the engine being off center).
I never understood why LC BJs have same springs in front (where all the orientation related differences are located), but different springs only in the back.
I actually did some research on the A/B side problem prior to my insrall, as I wasn't (and still aren't) sure about the manufacturers intention.
'Driver's weight' I actually regard to be a nonsense argument. Why are two or even 3 front seats fitted? If the vehicle needs a special spring setup for one driver to be level, one or two passengers would then put it off level again... ?
My arguments for A to the right were
- A is indicated as 'driver side' by the manufacturer from a RHD country for a vehicle of a manufacturer also from a RHD country.
- With diffs (unsprung mass) and T-case on the right, general weight distribution on the LC appears to me to be oriented to the right side (mostly independent of the driver side orientation). Hard to estimate, though. Did anybody ever put the BJ73 on wheel scales?
Well, maybe I was wrong. Once I find the time I may swap the springs and will see the difference.

But thank you for your insights, thoughts and the link.
Good luck with your approach. I'm curious on the result. You are lucky to have a supplier who is willing to get it right. When I ask my supplier, all I got was 'RTFM'.
Cheers
Ralf

Yes I agree that intuitively;

1) It doesn't make sense for the driver to add any significant lean to a heavy duty vehicle!
2) You would think that uneven weight distribution in the front would be corrected by front springs. Maybe that would mess with handling too much or something (?) so they stick to the rear end for correcting the stance
3) Looks like heavy drive line components are oriented to the right

However, I have completed the install of the "B" spec on the right passenger side while leaving the "A" spring on the left driver's side. The result is a completely level truck. (this was all done prior to writing this post, and my success is the reason for writing this post)

Actually, my retailer did not help at all, they only got it wrong from the start (with identical rear A springs). When I told them it was leaning they said "oh yeah that can happen" and didn't give any solid direction for a fix... Frustrated, I went directly to an OME supplier and bought a B spring based on the application guide notes and my own hypothesis. I'm so glad I did!

I suggest swapping your rear springs next time you have a chance. I can almost guarantee it will correct your lean based on your vehicle, spring kit, and my own experience (we almost have the same rig). But before you do, measure the hub to wheel well distance on both sides on level ground. I'm guessing the difference is greater than 2 cm? I'm glad this post found you because the information out there is SO convoluted and confusing. ESPECIALLY for the LHD owners.

Let me know if you want any tips on leaf spring swap for these vehicles and I'll write something up for you.

🍻
 
I interpreted 'driver side' to be the right side
The drivers side is which ever side your steering wheel is on. These companies do a considerable amount of export, so they are acutely aware that there are LH models.
 
t doesn't make sense for the driver to add any significant lean to a heavy duty vehicle!

They have been doing this for 30-40 years. The drivers weight is there permanently, its always 60-100kg heavier on the drivers side.
 
Thank you, guys. I will swap the springs that coming winter. There are quite a few more things to sort on the truck.
I like this forum particularly for peoples quick response and open mind. Appreciate it.
 
I suggest swapping your rear springs next time you have a chance. I can almost guarantee it will correct your lean based on your vehicle, spring kit, and my own experience (we almost have the same rig).
🍻
I swapped the rear springs today...
Verdict: The A-spring to the driver side WHEREVER THAT IS.
No lean an more 😀
Before:
IMG-20211002-WA0003-1.jpg

After:
IMG-20211002-WA0004.jpg
 
So on an unrelated note. Where did you find a red back up light lens for the rear?
just noticed.
 
That's actually a rear foglight. This setup is quite common in Europe with any brand. It came that way when I bought the truck.
 

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