Last water pump impediment

[moiremusic]

Trying to pull my water pump out, and I'm down to one last blocker. I can't figure out how get it around this pulley arm. How much of the whole a/c compressor mount has to come out and what do I need to do to remove it? The FSM doesn't really mention this part and I'm stumped. FJ62.

 

[sbelinge]

You don't really need to remove that pulley. If you reach around behind the a/c bracket you can undo the hose clamp (the hose attaches to a metal connector pipe then to another hose to the radiator) and just pull it put. It is tricky getting everything aligned when reinstalling but, I thought it was easier than trying to remove the a/c mounting bracket and compressor. If you get under your rig you can see the parts. Pay close attention to how the hose clamps are installed to give yourself good access for tightening the clamps. It's a PITA for sure.

 

[moiremusic]

You don't really need to remove that pulley. If you reach around behind the a/c bracket you can undo the hose clamp (the hose attaches to a metal connector pipe then to another hose to the radiator) and just pull it put.

Thanks for the advice sbelinge, but the hose doesn't seem to be the problem. Maybe this will explain better:

 

[moiremusic]

Yep, totally stumped. I took the idle pulley off, and still can't get the pump out. The slot that the idle pulley is attached to is part of the larger mounting bracket. It seems like the only way to get it out of the way is to remove the a/c compressor, steering fluid reservoir, and the mounting bracket, but no one else seems to have done this. I must be missing something obvious.

 

[sbelinge]

I just looked at some photos I took of my water pump removal and, I removed those studs. I don't remember if that was the "right" way to do it but I didn't have any issues with it after doing so.

 

[moiremusic]

I just looked at some photos I took of my water pump removal and, I removed those studs.

What are you calling studs, sbelinge? The bolts that hold the pump on?

 

[moiremusic]

Well, if you are, then that won't work for me. Those things aren't budging, and I'm not sure even how you're supposed to remove them. I'll take any advice on that. I'm losing my mind trying to get to that pump.

Looks like I'm draining and removing my AC compressor this weekend. I can't believe I have to remove that whole mounting bracket to get the water pump out.

 

[micruz60]

If you used two nuts on the stud, tightned to ea. other, then you can try to back that stud out of the block....
HTH

 

[moiremusic]

If you used two nuts on the stud, tightned to ea. other, then you can try to back that stud out of the block....
HTH

Thanks, Micruz60. Will definitely be trying this tonight.

 

[roma042987]

wow totally different than an 87 fj60. im finishing up mine tonight. my water pump has bolts instead of studs. also doesn't have that idler there either.

 

[micruz60]

Sure is totally different.... Amazing to see the various setups for alt, powersteer, a/c, air pump on these engines over the years. I am surprised that someone else has not had the same problem, other than sbelinge. And he solved it.

 

[sbelinge]

@moiremusic do what @micruz60 suggests, when I removed my water pump the studs (there are a combination of studs and bolts holding the pump on) came off when I was removing the nuts (there's a good joke in there somewhere). To reinstall I did exactly what @micruze60 described basically adding a bolt head to the stud temporarily. It was pretty easy but, one thing Ive learned from this forum is no two rigs are exactly alike.

 

[Output Shaft]

It sounds like you were being impatient by wanting to do it "the easy way".
No offense. I know the feeling well.

Obviously the water pump mounting is an asinine design & obviously the AC bracket was installed after the water pump. Once you get those studs out (if you are going to do that) you could replace them with bolts. They look like M10X1.25 studs.. but I don't have a 62 so can't say for sure.

There are other things on the cruiser that can be like that. Often, just because something LOOKS like it should just come off easily with the removal of a few bolts, doesn't mean that it will.... and sometimes it might require the removal of 3 or more difficult things to get at it. Your water pump looks like it falls into that category. The problem always is lack of patience (or time) and not accepting the reality of the situation... always hoping (and trying) to do it easier than is possible.
That route inevitably is the most difficult and frustrating one.

But...

Water pump replacement is something that is done maybe every 10 years or so. You will probably never have to do it again.

 

[moiremusic]

If you used two nuts on the stud, tightned to ea. other, then you can try to back that stud out of the block....
HTH

when I removed my water pump the studs (there are a combination of studs and bolts holding the pump on) came off when I was removing the nuts (there's a good joke in there somewhere). To reinstall I did exactly what @micruze60 described basically adding a bolt head to the stud temporarily.

Oh my god you guys are saints. I used two nuts to ease out those studs. Now I can finally put the thing back together. Good weather down here this week so I hope I can get it done in a few days. Thanks!

 

[micruz60]

Do the bolts like OS mentioned.
Glad it worked for ya!

 

[moiremusic]

Once you get those studs out (if you are going to do that) you could replace them with bolts. They look like M10X1.25 studs.

Do the bolts like OS mentioned.
Glad it worked for ya!

So the length of the bolt... Would the head of the bolt be tight against the pump, or would I still use nuts to do that? I've never looked for metric bolts around here locally... not sure where to start.

 

[micruz60]

No nuts, heh.

Take one of the studs with you to any hardware store thats worth a darm... Ace, or local auto parts. They should have a fixed board with all metric / sae nuts referencing sizes , then you browse the drawers for the ones you need
I'm not sure about length, you might eyeball one of the studs in place on waterpump, where you are able to see where it sat , if they're not already cleaned up...
HTH

 

[moiremusic]

They should have a fixed board with all metric / sae nuts referencing sizes , then you browse the drawers for the ones you need

So can I just use regular ol' galvanized steel? Or is there a particular type of bolt better suited for this type of use?

 

[Output Shaft]

Zinc plated steel bolt is what is available in the USA. Corrosion resistance of zinc plating is minimal.

Better yet,

If you want Cadmium plated steel, like all the fasteners that are on the Toyota for the best rust protection, find an original Toyota bolt on the car that will fit for the stud, then get that bolt from Toyota. If you can't find the part number, members here on Mud can find the PN for you and see if it is still available.... If you can describe it well enough. Or find a zinc plated bolt at your hardware store that will fit, then measure it and let us know it's length, we may be able to find a similar Toyota Cad plated bolt on our 60s in our parts stash... with the PN.

 

[micruz60]

Or you could reinstall wat ya got... Should last a good while. Mr. T had some glitches in design phase... I wonder what the shop protocol was for this job, does the fsm mention a sequence?