Land Cruiser HDJ100 1HD-FTE Chugging/honing/droning/strange sound upon medium acceleration (1 Viewer)

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May 30, 2017
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Hello Diesel Specialists.

I've got a Land Cruiser HDJ100 with a 1HD-FTE engine, OEM VNT turbo, OEM swirl flaps, capped EGR (has always been capped since I bought it), and 555555km / 345678miles.
The Injection pump, Injectors and Turbo have been rebuild about 125000km/77777miles ago ago.

I've had this problem for more than a year now but I'd like to sort it out.
Honestly I can't remember when it started, it creeped up on me.

When the car is started in the morning, cold engine, and I accelerate the engine does not sound normal.
When I am between 1200 - 1900 rpm the engine is chugging/stuttering/makes a strange sound as if the RPM's are not constant.
It feels underpowered at that moment. Above 2000rpn there is no sound.

After a few minutes of driving the sound goes away and the car drives like it should, everything feels normal.
Only when the car sits until it is completely cold I have the sound again. That can be in the evening or the next morning.

I daily drive the car 35000km/22000miles per year.

I was worried the compression was low. It cranks and starts up very easy and fast. even when cold.
I did do a compression check: Cylinders: 1-28Bar 2-26.5Bar 3-26.5Bar 4-28.5Bar 5-27Bar 6-30Bar.
I must say this was a very old tester not calibrated in any way, but at least the values are not too far apart

According to service manual compression should be 24 bar or higher and not more that 4.9 bar apart.

Other things I will research:
- Air bubbles in diesel;
- Turbo pressure;
- Things you might come up with, maybe someone recognizes the sound.

I've made a video of the sound and my dash, there's three. Don't mind the AHC light, switched to Ironman Foamcell Pro and didn't pull fuses yet.






Thanks for reading, I hope someone has some input on this problem.
 
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Hi, I have had the exact same problem on same 1HD for 5 years same noise between 1200 and 1900 rpm, and because of your youtube post I decided to try and sort it, and I have by pure fluke.
I have had LC for the last 40 years 100, 80 & 60 series, in fact I just sold my old 80 which I bought new in 1990.
Anyway after looking on youtube I decided to do a Liqui Molly diesel purge with there product, so I called in my local parts shop I always use to get inline filters and some 8mm & 12mm diesel fuel pipe to extend mine to reach the reservoir I was using, but my mate in there said, ( listen you have to buy minimum of a meter of each so don't bother wasting money on fittings just replace your short feed pipe from the filter to the pump with the 1 meter length, then when you have finished either put your old pipe back on or cut the new one to the right length.
So I thought what a good idea and it saves me money.
I set everything up with the new pipes and started the engine with a closed circuit using the liqui molly , WOW cured instantly and I mean straight away as soon as I started the engine, so that molly stuff might be good , BUT defiantly not that good, ITS YOUR FUEL FLOW PIPE BETWEEN FUEL FILTER AND INJECTOR PUMP DRAWING AIR, not the return pipe.
I really hope you have the same problem as me, I have had half a dozen suggestions over the years from mechanics even toyota ones.
By the way I did run it on that moly stuff for a hour but the inline filter was as clean as when I started, so that was not the problem.
Let me know how you get on good luck
 
From what you describe, first thing is look at is air in the fuel system.
If you have a cracked hose, it may allow enough air to sell into the system, break the vacuum in the fuel hoses and allow some fuel to drain back to the tank overnight. After running for a while, it's possible its clearing most the air bubbles and running normally again.

Under acceleration, fuel demand is high, so more chance of sucking a bit of air in through a hose that's damaged.

There's loads of threads about this. Stumbling, running rough, loss of power, and white smoke from the exhaust coinciding with a stumble all indicate air in the fuel system.

It'll cost you pennies to get a bit of clear hose and do some testing
 
Is it definitely engine? A family member had a resonance issue in a HDJ100 that was finally traced to, I think, a front diff mount.
 
Start with a clear hose between IP and pump, if there’s air - keep moving it back till you find none. You have found where the problem is.

If no air it’s something else, report back.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, I was in Scandinavia last week and discovered a swollen hose on the return line from injectors.
I found it thanks to a diesel smell when the car was off, replaced that bit of hose.

While searching for air related problems I also found that sometimes the "Switch, Level Warning - 84461-60050" on the bottom of fuel filter can cause air leaks.

I also ordered new hoses to replace all diesel hose in the engine bay, If problem persists I will try with clear hose.
Goint to change them and report back here.

Thanks!
 
@YvesNL

D you happen to have an update on your truck and the surging? I also have the same issue exactly as you do.
 
Yes. I had similar surging issues that would come and go (mostly there all the time) and checked wiring and other connections. I check fuel lines, fuel filter tower and filter among other areas all to no avail.

I had to replace my Injection Pump in its entirety. Not a real difficult job (although intimidating) if you have an FSM to follow closely, you're patient and have a small steering wheel puller set. Pretty much anything else you need is basic tools and nothing real special.

After replacing the IP, ALL issues have gone away completely. Zero issues, none. Very expensive fix, but it is fixed.
 
Yes. I had similar surging issues that would come and go (mostly there all the time) and checked wiring and other connections. I check fuel lines, fuel filter tower and filter among other areas all to no avail.

I had to replace my Injection Pump in its entirety. Not a real difficult job (although intimidating) if you have an FSM to follow closely, you're patient and have a small steering wheel puller set. Pretty much anything else you need is basic tools and nothing real special.

After replacing the IP, ALL issues have gone away completely. Zero issues, none. Very expensive fix, but it is fixed.
Thank you for help. I have a few things to check before I decide to change the pump. I have a small leak on the return pipe from the injectors. Don't know if that can cause uneven acceleration when cold.

Is there any testes to check if the pump is still performing?
 
Check wires going to the pump and see if wiggling them changes the IP even while engine is at idle. There was a post that a guy said he heard a click when he wiggled the wires to the IP and figured out his wiring was loose/needed fixed. You can also check your fuel system to see if there is air getting into the line. Air will cause hesitation and erratic performance too.
 

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