Kipa 21100-61021 -- inexpensive aftermarket carburetor for the 2F (1 Viewer)

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FishTacos

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There is a thread about these Chinese made aftermarket carbs going on the 40/45/55 forum. Quite inexpensive when compared to the OEM rebuilds. Here is a link to that thread:

Anyone use one of those $80 carbs off of amazon?

The second post has a link to the amazon page. If that link is broken just copy the manufacturers part number into a search field and several listings at various prices pop up on eBay as well.

I ordered one at about 8:00 PM Saturday from amazon for ~$80 and it was on my doorstep Monday morning. I need to rebuild one of my spares so I'm going to install this on my 60 so that it can remain in service. Maybe I'll send mine out to one of the carb whisperers here on Mud. Either way, if it works well I can do that at my leisure.

I took off the air horn to inspect the casting and check for debris and finish on the brass parts. I'll post pics shortly.
 
Pics:

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There are more pics of the light dismantling that I performed on the 40 series thread linked above.
 
A few initial thoughts:

First, this carb lacks both a choke breaker and a choke opener. It has one wire for the fuel cut solenoid. There is only one vac port on the base on the side that points toward the valve cover. Sorry, California, but I don't think this meets smog compliance.

The listing, and in fact the manufacturers own literature, says that this is a direct replacement for '69-87 2F engines.

Hmmm..... :hmm:

It is linkage style....

It is a 2 barrel design....

No CB & and no CO....

AND...the 2F engine was first released in the 1975 model year iirc.

Direct replacement for '75-'78 is my guess but smarter cruiserheads than I might be able to provide a more accurate assessment.

Now for install....
 
I bought one, probably from the same factory, it worked except at idle. It would just die unless I kept it above 1000 rpm no matter the adjustment. I hope you have better luck than I did. -Matt
 
Fish, first thing, put 12v to the idle solenoid wire (ground body) and make sure ICS is working (clicks)
 
Fish, first thing, put 12v to the idle solenoid wire (ground body) and make sure ICS is working (clicks)
After install I assume?

Or I guess I could ground the carb base to a known good battery terminal (-), attach a wire to the terminal on the ICS, and touch the other end of the wire to the positive battery terminal with a probe?

I had to replace my rear brake shoes today and it was a bit of a bear so i haven't gotten around to swapping carbs. Snowy here and the backside and knees of my quilted carharts are soaked....back hurts...sucks getting old(er). And sucks not having a lift in a bay at my shop space.
 
Or I guess I could ground the carb base to a known good battery terminal (-), attach a wire to the terminal on the ICS, and touch the other end of the wire to the positive battery terminal with a probe?

THIS ^^

I had to replace my rear brake shoes today and it was a bit of a bear so i haven't gotten around to swapping carbs. Snowy here and the backside and knees of my quilted carharts are soaked....back hurts...sucks getting old(er). And sucks not having a lift in a bay at my shop space.

Yeah, I hate working on the truck when it's cold --- Murder on the back.
 
I know someone who had a guy go through his Chinese carb that wasn't working properly and it ran great afterward, so who knows.
 
I don’t feel that you should have to go to through an off the shelf carburetor.

I had a carb from a vendor on here that was full of shavings out of the box. I had so many issues with that carb. Never again.


City racer, or a new rest of world oem Toyota for new. Marks or JimC if you want a rebuilt unit.
 
I bought one, probably from the same factory, it worked except at idle. It would just die unless I kept it above 1000 rpm no matter the adjustment. I hope you have better luck than I did. -Matt
I am having that same problem with mine right now. And it has a bit of a whistle too.
 

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