Kickdown Cable Tension

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So, I'm adjusting the kickdown cable on my 1996 FZJ80. The FSM says this:

Kickdown.JPG


However, my cable has a lot of slack in this range. You don't really get rid of the slack until the stopper it's adjusted nearly all the way out:

Kickdown Actual.JPG


I have a supercharger, not sure if that makes a difference. Doesn't seem like relocating the throttle body would change the tension. Anyway, what are your thoughts? Adjust it so the stopper is in the right place or adjust it until I just barely remove the slack? Anything damage that could occur running it like it's shown here?
 

dogfishlake

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That's a good question. I get that the cable can stretch, but that would be like 3+ mm of stretch. Kind of a lot it seems. I honestly don't know where mine is at. I've got a SC too, I'll try to look directly at my cable.
 

george_tlc

 
 
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I've got a S/C and I just adjust till it's barely slack. You can feel it kick down more aggressively if you have it too tight.

It's a long cable, goes to the transmission, so a few mm over that length over 20 years isn't to much of a stretch :)

cheers,
george.
 

landtank

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There really isn't much tension on the cable and I have to think stretching is minimum. During my SC install I fought with the routing of that cable to ensure that it wouldn't bind with in the casing. The return spring at the valve body isn't that strong.
 
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Did a test run. Seemed a little better. Pedal felt firmer, but idle was ok which I assume means I got rid of the slack but it's not too tight. Didn't notice much on the shifts but wasn't able to push it too hard. I'll run this way for awhile and see how it goes.
 
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Throttle cable also adjusts off idle down shifts. I prefer to apply a little more accelerator input before a jerky downshift occurs in the neighborhood or in traffic.

For instance creeping in traffic, then the light turns green. You lightly roll into the the accelerator pedal, the throttle cable determines how likely the transmission will "kick-down" into 1st.

I vote to leave some slack. At 230k I have about 3/4 of my stopper showing.
 
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The "kick down" cable only adjusts shift firmness, or lack there of, so adjust for the feel that you prefer.
Based on driving this morning, it seems like this is the correct answer. I didn't really notice any difference in shift points, just that they seemed a bit firmer.
 

Tools R Us

 
 
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Throttle cable also adjusts off idle down shifts. I prefer to apply a little more accelerator input before a jerky downshift occurs in the neighborhood or in traffic.

For instance creeping in traffic, then the light turns green. You lightly roll into the the accelerator pedal, the throttle cable determines how likely the transmission will "kick-down" into 1st.

I vote to leave some slack. At 230k I have about 3/4 of my stopper showing.
This is true on older transmissions, the thread subject is an A343, fully ECU shifted.
 
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Why do they even have a cable on the A343? Seems like it's basically just telegraphing the throttle position, but couldn't that just be done with the TPS?
 

Rivman1243

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Why do they even have a cable on the A343? Seems like it's basically just telegraphing the throttle position, but couldn't that just be done with the TPS?
You are correct. It could be done with the tps but I think its a fail safe so the tranny can operate with limited electrical input
 

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Why do they even have a cable on the A343? Seems like it's basically just telegraphing the throttle position, but couldn't that just be done with the TPS?
On the next generation of the A340 it is electronic/solenoid controlled. At least on ours, we can still adjust the shift firmness.
 
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