Just throwing a few parts together

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Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Threads
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I'm posting this over here because i'm looking for constructive criticism instead of flamed or no comments at all. Well i was sick of the CJ never being just the way I wanted it so i thought i would tear it down and use the parts to build just a little something.


I was fixing it more than driving it, and i wanted something easier to work on with more shoulder room.

Here's a short list of parts that are being reused:
Front: Chevy 60 front w/ 35 spline chromos, drive flanges, Detroit, 5.13's and 1/2" armor over 3/8" diff cover
Rear: 14 bolt, discs, full spool, 5.13's and 1/2" armor over 3/8" diff cover
PSC 2.5" full hydro, double ended with highsteer arms made for stock offset H1's
2.0 FOA coilovers in front and 2.0 fox airshocks in rear all are 16" travel
2 Hunsaker Suspension seats
39.5 PBR's on stock center H1's with rock rings
6-6" KC daylighters

Here's the list of new to me parts going in:
stock 22re, w56, and doubler with 2.28/4.7 all 23 spline and heavy outputs
rear mounted stock rad with electric fan
Triple sticks from J-Rat on pirate (awesome)
and just a few misc items here and there

Now here's the part were i cheated a little. I went to AZrockcrawler and spent the money and bought the plans for a Hellraiser II buggy. It's th e exact style i wanted with very few changes and it is already a proven design for him and it works. If your looking for DIY buggy plans I do recommend them

AZ Rockcrawler.com

I started about 3.5 months ago only getting after work and MAYBE 1 weekend day a month.

Here's what i have so far:

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I'm shooting for a 110" wheelbase and 22" of belly at ride height with 5" uptravel. All of these numbers at this point seem easy to do.
I'm ready to start mocking up front and rear 4 link on calculators for squat, roll and everthing else. Im using Rusty's offroad 2.5" forged and rebuildable end links. They should be strong enough for a less than 3000 lb buggy.
The chassis mock up is about 75-80% done. I have only tacked everything so far and will only final weld when EVERYTHING is right.
I know i still have a long way to go and i'm trying to find a little motivation and ideas to make sure everything is right. I've still have gussets, seat frames, tank mounts, plumbing etc to do and hydro mounts etc to REdo but if you guys see something that is wrong please let me know so we can discuss and make it right. I'm in no time frame as long as it's right. I work on this at least 1 hour every single day. it doesn't sound llike much but that's my cool down from work, so i enjoy it.

I look foward to your comments and criticisms you jackasses:flipoff2:

Later

Crasher
 
looks good, am interested to see the final project as i was looking to do pretty much the same thing, but don't have the coin to do so, :)
 
I forgot to tell you guys that I'm building all of this in my barn. That has an uneven dirt floor and no power. I have to run 100 feet of 110v, 220v, and air hose each from the garage anytime I want to work.

And with where I live I wouldn't change a thing. Wife says I may get permanent power to barn in 2013. Fingers are crossed.

Later

Crasher
 
I admire your priorities, block the mower in with a steel burnin project!

I like dirty metal, I like the dirt floor, I like the jump in and get it done attack. I like the toy running gear and REAL axles.

Thanks for not posting a 72 page long thread titled, "how would the web build a buggy?" and then spend 40 years trying to build the most blingtanium, expensive, everything the never wheeling internet minions told ya to build kinda build thread.


I luvs the shock hoop skidder.

Happy :wrench:ing. Looks like you got it handled. Its refreshing to see a buggy in the hardcore section. :cheers:
 
I like it, nice and short. Good use of the gussets. Are you worried about power with that 22RE?

What are you notching with?
 
Im with chopshop, love that its a straight up realistic build instead of some pimped out hoopty too pretty to get used.
 
Nice .. one of those days I would like to do something like with 1FZ-FE and auto trans .. ( yeah I know .. soo long drivetrain )
 
I like it, nice and short. Good use of the gussets. Are you worried about power with that 22RE?
In stock form my 22re has 105hp new. My bet is I get 40-50 hp to ground now. I'll probably do a rebuild on it. I can get entire kit for $300 or so. I don't go to fast anyway and with gears I should be ok for crawling.
What are you notching with?
P.O.S. Harbor freight I'm on my 2nd one.

looks good, am interested to see the final project as i was looking to do pretty much the same thing, but don't have the coin to do so, :)
Since I'm recycling the Heep I've essentially been collecting parts for about 5 yrs. So cost has been spread out over time. Just for the tubing though I'll have less than $400 in material, $100 in plans and free labor. I save like $40-$50 a week for buggy whatever so in less than 3 mos your ready to build entire chassis. Start saving and get out there.

I admire your priorities, block the mower in with a
steel burnin project!
That way when she says to mow I can say all right I'll go and try and dig the mower out and 3 hrs later I go in all dirty with no grass mowed and say "sorry honey I just couldn't move buggy yet. So the quicker I get it done the quicker I
get it moved and get the mower out" she usually just rolls her eyes at me.

I like dirty metal, I like the dirt floor, I like the jump in and get it done attack. I
like the toy running gear and REAL axles.

I have less than a grand in entire drivetrain with doubler, 4.7 and triple sticks. The rest was Craigslist. And I recycled the axles.


I luvs the shock hoop skidder.
Recycling helps the environment

Im with chopshop, love that its a straight up realistic build instead of some pimped out hoopty too pretty to get used.
We's Hoosiers not smert enuff to stuff pertty make?

Nice .. one of those days I would like to do something like with 1FZ-FE and auto trans .. ( yeah I know .. soo long drivetrain )
I wanted an auto and I have a good one but couldn't mate a doubler when I built mine. Haven't checked lately if now someone makes doubler kit for it. My 5 spd was free when I bought a $10 radiator and shifts smooth so far. If you come get it you can HAVE the auto just to get it out of my way. But if you come over I'll put you to work on buggy.
 
2 things I'm mentally working on now are hydro ram mount and beefing up "sliders".
I want to put ram on pinion side of axle not cover side. That way it's completely protected by axle but space is limited. (imagine that) so a very small truss will be needed to get upper links raised to just clear top of ram.

Next is sliders all of the tubing is 1.5" .120 wall so my idea is to cut a piece of PIPE I have that is 1.5" ID with a 1/4" wall length ways and put 1 half under each slider. Then when you need your sliders your riding or bouncing or grinding on 3/8" thick wall tube but only half the weight of complete tube. I thought of even gun drilling the outer tube only for fun and looks but not sure if the speed holes would weaken it and/or catch on rocks Let me know if that makes sense. If not I'll find a pic of the idea I thieved from someone else.

My goal is to have ram and links on axle and sliders done this weekend. And of course pics to follow

Later
 
I found the slider pics

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Im sure this wil be plenty strong but do you guys thing the holes will catch on stuff?

Later

Crasher
 
I found the slider pics

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Im sure this wil be plenty strong but do you guys thing the holes will catch on stuff?

Later

Crasher


I wouldn't worry about it. They're smaller holes, I don't think they can grab too much.
 
Drill holes for pleasure? screw that.

Drill holes that might cause trial friction? screw that.

One popular thing I see alot of is guys just adding a 1/4 or 3/8 solid round rod to the outer edge of the sliders tubes to beef it up. No prep, just weld it on and keep building. Gives it a nice wear edge.
 
So I've made a little progress.
I got the 4 link mocked up I think it looks pretty good just needs some reinforcement. The extra brackets you see on the axle are from the old single triangulated 4 link the sucked. I ran out of oxygen so I couldn't cut them off yet. I still need to work on shock placement also. End joints are rustys off road 2.5" forged ends. High quality with low price
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I think for finished links I'll just sleeve some mire PVC over these mockups and run it.
Both sides look the same for these boatsides so only showing one side. This section will bolt on but the front and back section will weld on. Also the bolts you see will be countersunk and flush so safe on rocks. I do think it's decent ground clearance though. The finished floor and seats will go straight on top of these.
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