where is the best place to get the rear disc conversion brackets for my 60?
Just a quick question about rear disc conversion
- Thread starter tonyota
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #2
OK. I got that answer already.
Now for my next question.
What all is involved in this swap? I'm coming to find its more involved than I thought.
Anyone have a link to a thread about this?
Is there a thread about rear disc swaps for 60s?
Now for my next question.
What all is involved in this swap? I'm coming to find its more involved than I thought.
Anyone have a link to a thread about this?
Is there a thread about rear disc swaps for 60s?
there got to be 50 threads about this.
your first question should be: Do I really need this?
as has been said many, many times before-this is an upgrade that is rather involved if done correctly, needs quite some knowledge about brakes, and is not required unless you are running ginormous tires or want to rock-crawl.
If your brakes don't work well on your truck, the problem is not the lack of rear disks, usually.
cheers,
J
- Thread starter
- #4
Brakes work great. I just like the idea.....Drums fill with muddy water & such when wheelin. Have 35s on the rig & 2 of my buddies did the swap & it does make a difference in stopping power.
The trick is to get rotors that fit over the axle pilot. You have likely read about that, they must be machined from late eighties GM four-wheel drive extra cab truck front rotors. I have the old school, 1970s truck fron rotors on the rear of my rig. Boy does it stop! But there were (and are) issues with this. They take much more fluid volume than your drums. You will end up pumping the pedal every time. The cure is to replace the stock MC with a larger diameter MC from a 4-runner or FJ 80. Then your front brakes will not work right so you will need to replace those with the larger 4-runner calipers. A proportioning valve is a must, easy to do. One other approach would be to find a smaller GM (or Toyota) caliper that will work properly on the volume of fluid you will give it without all these changes. I'm putting on T-100 MC and front calipers this weekend as a matter of fact, to get rig of all the issue I just spelled out. I still do not have an E-brake, and the Eldorado calipers really don't work well.
Last edited:
The root cause of most problems with rear disc conversions is that the calipers used in the rear have too large a piston. Frequently the piston's area is greater than the sum of the front piston areas when it really needs to be less than the front piston area.
I'm still looking for an OE fixed caliper with a small enough piston area. The Exploder and the Supra sliding calipers have been used in some kits. I've no idea what their piston area is, but the Exploder rear discs have worked very well for a couple of EB owning friends.
I'm still looking for an OE fixed caliper with a small enough piston area. The Exploder and the Supra sliding calipers have been used in some kits. I've no idea what their piston area is, but the Exploder rear discs have worked very well for a couple of EB owning friends.
- Thread starter
- #7
Interesting information...tell me more.
I haven't taken anything apart yet, but I have gathered most of the parts. So nothing is etched in stone as far as the actual swap.
I haven't taken anything apart yet, but I have gathered most of the parts. So nothing is etched in stone as far as the actual swap.
Not sure how valuable this info is, but I have GM (S-10) rear discs and I love them. Of course they were on the rig when I bought it so I didn't have to worry about the conversion. Just follow all the good advice on here and you'll be fine. The e-brake issue is a downside though. I'm still considering the t-case solution.
- Thread starter
- #10
I have a line lock park brake....but no e-brake I know I shouldn't say this, but I have never needed an emergency brake in my almost 30 years of driving. And hope I never need one. The line lock park brake is great & will hold the vehicle on a steep incline.
Seeing as how noone has the brackets for the calipers anymore anyway..at least not currently..I think I will be putting this project on the back burner for a while.
Anyone need a brand new in box, Jegs adjustable proportioning valve?
Seeing as how noone has the brackets for the calipers anymore anyway..at least not currently..I think I will be putting this project on the back burner for a while.
Anyone need a brand new in box, Jegs adjustable proportioning valve?
Well, here is an update to the post I made on this thread last week. I put on a set of wrecking-yard calipers and MC from a T-100. The calipers have larger piston diameters (parts sources have these listed as the same caliper as a 4-runner or FJ80) and the MC is a 1" bore verses the 13/16" of the stock MC. (This also lists as the same MC as a 4-runner or non-ABS FJ80) This was to try and balance out the system running the HUGE GM calipers in the back, which had resulted in excessive pedal travel and an overall mushy sensation on the fist push of the pedal. The second application of brake pedal would stop the rig in a hurry, but I didn't care for all the pedal pumping, I have a mountain bike for that. Today the pedal is nice and firm and the brakes are super strong and very progressive feeling. This is a terrific combination, very nicely balanced. Fortunately, I was able to obtain the MC and both rotors with almost new pads in them for $40.00 at a Pick and Pull. Nice that it works, even nicer that it was cheap, the parts cleaned up perfectly.
I'm not sure to whom you are directing that question, but I currently don't have one. That will be a summer project; fabricating a driveline brake for my NP241. Parts Mike has the caliper and a rotor that will work (I need a big rotor to clear my huge CV joint and flange) for around $100. There will be an afternoon under the Cruiser with a welder. Again.
Post pics of that, please. I'll eventually be in the same boat - needing a p-brake on the rear of an NP241. I recall reading that you made a SYE or that the t/c came that way?
Some bad info floating in this thread.
I have done more rear disc conversions than I can recall at the moment....
The GM calipers do NOT result in a soft pedal or one that need to be pumps. You do not need to replace your MC. The FJ60 brackets are available, at least as of the last time I checked. There is nothing complicated about the swap. You will loose your axle based parking brake. A line lock works great as a parking brake. You do need to used an adjustable proportioning vlve along with your OEM proportioning valve. You need to remove the residual valve from the rear circuit of your M/C. An inline 2 pound residual valve is a good thing to include.
Mark...
I have done more rear disc conversions than I can recall at the moment....
The GM calipers do NOT result in a soft pedal or one that need to be pumps. You do not need to replace your MC. The FJ60 brackets are available, at least as of the last time I checked. There is nothing complicated about the swap. You will loose your axle based parking brake. A line lock works great as a parking brake. You do need to used an adjustable proportioning vlve along with your OEM proportioning valve. You need to remove the residual valve from the rear circuit of your M/C. An inline 2 pound residual valve is a good thing to include.
Mark...
My T-case came from a Dodge 1/2 ton. Up through 1993, these trucks used an NP241 with a passenger side front drop, a fixed yoke output and a mechanical speedo drive. It's a sweet wrecking yard find for $100, the SLE was about four times that when I went looking.
- Thread starter
- #17
Wow. An interesting turn of events. I have a line lock. Where do I get the brackets???? And where do I get the residule valve?? I have everything else waiting in the truck to be installed. Can you help me with this info , Mark??
Thanks.
Tony
You're right about the pumping thing, but it is dependant upon the fluid volume of the calipers you choose. I tried to make that clear. Having not considered this before hand, I used calipers that were used on the front of 1970s Chevy 1/2 ton four wheel drive trucks. These take huge amounts of fluid, and yes, pedal pumping was pretty much necessary. That's all fixed now. It would have been easier to find a caliper better suited for this with a lower fluid volume requirement, but I was already past that point. So, the moral to the story is get a smaller caliper to begin with and you won't have to jump through all the hoops that I did. And as far a line locks go, that's a fine way to hold it in the driveway, but in the event of a brake system failure, you would be screwed. That's why I would rather go for an independant system, although a line lock is better than what I currently have which is nothing at all.
Those calipers that lehiguy used are most likely those with the 2-15/16" OD pistons. The "S-10" or "Metric" or "D-154" (FMSI pad number) calipers use a 2.5" piston. Doesn't seem like a lot, but that's a 27.6% difference in piston area. Which would roughly translate into a 27.6% lower fluid volume need.
The "Caddy" calipers came in either size depending on the donor. De Villes used the larger while the Sevilles and Eldo's used the smaller. The smaller are the more common p-brake type GM rear caliper.
The "Caddy" calipers came in either size depending on the donor. De Villes used the larger while the Sevilles and Eldo's used the smaller. The smaller are the more common p-brake type GM rear caliper.
when I install the TSM rear eldo calipers .. with my factory 60 series MC it's was braking well but not excelent as it should .. so I swap to a 80 series MC and then the braking go from good to phenomenal ..