Jack & Jack stands (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 31, 2006
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546
Location
Houston, TX
What kind hydralic jacks are u guys using for LC. Like 2 ton or 3 ton. And also jack stands to hold LC without failing... I know LC is 3ton truck but do we need a jack for 3ton as well. I don't think so.
Your input is appriciated
:cheers:
 
I use a 3 1/2 ton jack and 2 pairs of 6 ton stands. You need the height as much as the load carrying capacity.
 
3-ton Lincoln w/ a pr of 6-ton Lincoln stands under the frame up front, one pair of 3-ton lincoln stands under the axle housing in the rear. The Lincoln will lift from 4"-24", so it works well for my sports car, too. Buy a jack that will work for all the foreseeable cars you will own. I think you need 3-ton or better for the 100, as the front end is heavy.
 
- tallest jack possible for your budget (*well* over 20", 30" better). Much more convenient and safe when high lifts needed - don't use spacers.

- sturdiest stand possible for your budget (I went "12 tons" - note some manfufs rate them by the pair, not individually...) Peace of mind is invaluable...
 
After having a couple crapease floor jacks fall apart I finally invested in a Milwaukee floor jack. It's compact, for it's rating (4T), and lifts to 26" (if memory serves me correctly); USA made; 12T floor jacks for height.
 
I use a 3 1/2 ton jack and 2 pairs of 6 ton stands. You need the height as much as the load carrying capacity.

X2.

I have a 2 and a 3.5 ton jack and the 3.5 works much better with the Cruisers weight.
 
have any of you guys used the plastic ramps, I have used it with mild success on most fluid changes. yes i have other jacks and stands, but it was so easy to stick each ramp infront of the tires, put it in low and creep up, got a good 14 inch's of clearnace, enought to slide under. I do however want to go higher, possible 24-36 inch's and I don't think they will work for that. What have you guys used for most of your underbody work
 
3 ton Harbor Freight jack ($40) and two pair 6 ton stands (2x$20).

Yes, its cheap Chinese stuff. But so far it's cheap Chinese stuff that works well.
 
have any of you guys used the plastic ramps, I have used it with mild success on most fluid changes. yes i have other jacks and stands, but it was so easy to stick each ramp infront of the tires, put it in low and creep up, got a good 14 inch's of clearnace, enought to slide under. I do however want to go higher, possible 24-36 inch's and I don't think they will work for that. What have you guys used for most of your underbody work

I use four of those those "Blitz" ramps and love them, for fluid changes and visual inspections. Gets the whole vehicle up in the air in a hurry, now I only break out the jackstands if a wheel has to come off.
 
3 ton jack and 10 ton stands. All chinese-made.

The jack was $60 from (the largest warehouse retail club with the name beginning with S.) I looked for US-made jacks of same size, but they were 5 to 10 times the cost of chinese-made, so what's a poh boy to do?

Had to order the stands from Gra1nger...almost $100 each back in 1999...big stands necessary to get the extra height needed to use all available frame support points.

The stands fooled me - the brand name (Lincoln) and the price implied US-made, but they were actually made in China. (But 10 ton rating probably provides enough safety margin for this application, despite slightly higher probability of defects related to manufacturing origin...:) )
 
If it makes you feel any better, the Chinese stands are probably made from recycled American steel!

I use a 3.5 ton floor jack and haven't had to use stands yet (there is enough clearance for me to get under the vehicle without jacking). When dealing with this height I have been known to stack up cinder blocks and/or 4x4 pressure treated boards. If you have the supply, it is likely more stable than stands.
 
not much simple steel stuff left that is actually made in the US, sadly

my "12 tons" are HF, surely China, so far so good


(and in a pinch (ooops, poor choice of words) remember it's easy to stick a loose wheel and tire underneath as last ditch protection for crawlers)
 
If it makes you feel any better, the Chinese stands are probably made from recycled American steel!

I use a 3.5 ton floor jack and haven't had to use stands yet (there is enough clearance for me to get under the vehicle without jacking). When dealing with this height I have been known to stack up cinder blocks and/or 4x4 pressure treated boards. If you have the supply, it is likely more stable than stands.

It is my moral duty to warn you:

1. NOT a good idea to get underneath the vehicle when the weight is supported only by a jack, without stands.

Jacks can fail and drop the vehicle without warning.

2. I wouldn't recommend using cinder blocks to support the vehicle, either: I have seen cinder blocks fail without warning also, under compressive load without proper support around the sides of the block.

Concrete generally has high compressive strength, but cinder blocks are a special case - they need unyielding (rigid) support around all sides, and broad load area distribution, to support the heavier loads.

3. I've also have seen 4x4 PT lumber fail under compressive load and drop the vehicle, when used as spacer to jack vehicle.

FWIW.
 
It is my moral duty to warn you:

1. NOT a good idea to get underneath the vehicle when the weight is supported only by a jack, without stands.

Jacks can fail and drop the vehicle without warning.

2. I wouldn't recommend using cinder blocks to support the vehicle, either: I have seen cinder blocks fail without warning also, under compressive load without proper support around the sides of the block.

Concrete generally has high compressive strength, but cinder blocks are a special case - they need unyielding (rigid) support around all sides, and broad load area distribution, to support the heavier loads.

3. I've also have seen 4x4 PT lumber fail under compressive load and drop the vehicle, when used as spacer to jack vehicle.

FWIW.

You are correct - I should clarify.

1. I use a jack only for changing out tires or placing stands (not getting under the vehicle). All other repairs in the air are on stands.

2. The cinder blocks I use are solid, never hollow, and always use wood on the contact surface.

3. I was referring to using wood exclusively, not in conjunction with a jack or stand. I have experienced those failures before. When wood is used alone, it is far more than adequate to support a vehicle, provided it is on a stable surface.

Distribution of weight is key. We could use any variety of materials to support the vehicle as long as the pressures are vertical and immobile. If you plan on muscling some sticky bolts or some other heavy pushing and pulling under the vehicle, you should use a lift or try to keep two wheels on the ground for stability.
 

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