Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

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I haven't yet fitted that Kinugawa actuator. I'm still running a 22psi crimped shut Ebay one.

I suspect your EGT creep would be the intercooler & piping heat-soaking. I don't have an IC and my EGT is stable after maybe 10 seconds. Were those high numbers before or after you fixed the fan shroud?
 
Dougal said:
I haven't yet fitted that Kinugawa actuator. I'm still running a 22psi crimped shut Ebay one.

I suspect your EGT creep would be the intercooler & piping heat-soaking. I don't have an IC and my EGT is stable after maybe 10 seconds. Were those high numbers before or after you fixed the fan shroud?
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Possibly intercooler heat soak, I thought to get a true EGT reading it needs to be done over minutes not seconds. Plus I would hope at 17psi im not dealing with heat soak at thoes levels.

All the numbers I have quoted are with a fan shroud fit.

My next test when I get back will be to wire the wastegate shut and see if that is my issue.
 
Sucks that the test kit showed a false negative. I know its worked in the past as a positive when there has been HG issues. I've not followed the full thread, but best wishes your way; you are a patient man. Sounds like you are on the road to getting it figured.

gb
 
I've read parts before but finally read your whole thread from start to finish. You've got fantastic tenacity! Good job for keeping at it and figuring out the issues that have come your way. I can relate to the ups and downs these swaps can provide but as posted in a previous post we are basically re-engineering these rigs. Since we don't typically have a team of engineers (Mud does help with that) or million dollar budgets to get all the testing done we get to do it over a longer time scale as we fit this hobby into our busy lives. I look forward to reading more of your successes and trials as you master this build. Just lending a pat on the back and hoping you stick with it. Lots of great tech here.
 
This thread had been a roller coaster for sure, I hope wiring the gate shut shows something positive!
 
boots4 said:
I've read parts before but finally read your whole thread from start to finish. You've got fantastic tenacity! Good job for keeping at it and figuring out the issues that have come your way. I can relate to the ups and downs these swaps can provide but as posted in a previous post we are basically re-engineering these rigs. Since we don't typically have a team of engineers (Mud does help with that) or million dollar budgets to get all the testing done we get to do it over a longer time scale as we fit this hobby into our busy lives. I look forward to reading more of your successes and trials as you master this build. Just lending a pat on the back and hoping you stick with it. Lots of great tech here.
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Thank you very much! I read yiu thread and knew I wanted a 4cyl diesel year's ago. I actuaĺy had a 4bt p pump and a nv4500 to swap into a 60 series. Could not find a clean 60 and had to sell the 4bt.

You are an insparation and a roll modle for thoes on a rollercoaster such as myself.


warezdog said:
This thread had been a roller coaster for sure, I hope wiring the gate shut shows something positive!
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Thanks, my 20 day work stint is almost done. I get to head hone in a week and am taking a week off. Plan to rest for a few days and spend time with my wife. Then work on the truck more.
 
Seeing the truck in person today she looks damn good!... Oh and sounds nice too!

Nice job bud!

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1424670228.780315.webp
 
Got my truck on the dyno tonight. I also used a snap-on smoke machine used the test pipes for leaks. I had two leaks one was where I had put a drill through the intercooler.....ops and one was a slightly loose hose clamp. Driving it after the boost leak fix resulted in no improvement in boost or power.

On the dyno we watched the waste gate and its not opening with the wastegate line pulled. It peaked boost at 2700rpm then started falling after that. Peak boost was 22psi for just a split second. EGT's are safe but the dyno pulls are only 20ish seconds. Loaded in 3rd gear with the converter locked it made 115whp and 225ft/tq at the wheels. So power is very simalar to the 1fz but the power band on the 4bd is about 1/2 what it was.

Somthing must be up with this turbo, I have never driven a diesel or gas engine that has had such a lazy boosting turbo. At 23psi I have 35psi drive so there is not lack of energy in the exhaust.
 
I think you need to check pressures right through to find what is holding up your boost.
Vacuum pre-turbo.
Boost post turbo
Boost post intercooler/manifold.


But aside from the boost, you should have enough fuel to create still hot EGT at 23psi.
Fuel blockage?
Just to throw some numbers at it.
180cc/1000 shots at 2000rpm requires 150 litres air/second at 18:1 A/F.
To fit that into a 3.9 diesel with an awesome intercooler needs ~28 psi boost and gives decently hot EGT

What rpm and EGT was that boost/drive measurement taken?
 
Your turbo problems really started with the 6cm housing? You did mention it was loose for a while. Any chance the turbine or housing got damaged or for some strange reason they don't fit?

Just so you know, I have put my money where my spreadsheets are. I bought a TD04HL-15T with the 5cm Saab housing. Plus a Kinugawa 19T wheel and housing (billet extended tip) and will pick up a 6cm saab housing later on.
I did it the Saab way because I wanted interchange between the 5 and 6cm housings so I can see how the 5cm goes at almost 2000m altitude.
 
The turbo is coming off and going in for inspection and testing. The problem was present with the 7cm housing as well. When I threw a ton of fuel at it it woukd make 28psi but it would quickly go north of 1400f EGT.

Pre and post intercooler boost pressure is within 1psi at 23psi. I have no boost leaks and the exhaust is not creating any back pressure post turbo. I do not have an intake vacume guage, but the filter is good and all the inlet piping is 3+" to the turbo.

Im glad to see you got a turbo, not going to be quite a apple to apple test with a billet ET compressor and 5cm housing but im intrested to see the outcome.

Im not sure if im fighting a bad turbo right now or a s*** engine.
 
I've been chasing fuel and tuning for some time on my 4bt hx30 6cm. I had some of the same 20-27 boost numbers but my max tended to jump around but all the sudden high egts even in the low 20's.

I went a redid my intercooler tubing made sure to have good bead roles on all my soft joints and eliminated as many soft joints as possible. Now I am not running into spiking egts and very consistent top end boost. I do not have the waist gate actuator tubes up to boost and so signs that drive pressure is pushing it open, it's an external WG open to the engine bay currently I can hear it open of I hook the boost reference to it.

I didn't think I had any boost leaks either but under pressurize with the heat the clamps and silicon acts a touch different than a static test. I'm consistently getting 30psi an about 1000F with short pulls. no long hills in Kansas to really get a top end egt heat soak value
 
cjmoon said:
I've been chasing fuel and tuning for some time on my 4bt hx30 6cm. I had some of the same 20-27 boost numbers but my max tended to jump around but all the sudden high egts even in the low 20's.

I went a redid my intercooler tubing made sure to have good bead roles on all my soft joints and eliminated as many soft joints as possible. Now I am not running into spiking egts and very consistent top end boost. I do not have the waist gate actuator tubes up to boost and so signs that drive pressure is pushing it open, it's an external WG open to the engine bay currently I can hear it open of I hook the boost reference to it.

I didn't think I had any boost leaks either but under pressurize with the heat the clamps and silicon acts a touch different than a static test. I'm consistently getting 30psi an about 1000F with short pulls. no long hills in Kansas to really get a top end egt heat soak value
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Yeah I tested all my intercooler pipes yesterday and fixed two leaks. I have 3 silicone joints in the system and all are bead rolled and not leaking.

My issue is when I acceletate boost builds slowly from 10-20psi somthi does not feel right. When I put my foot down I should have almost instant boost not 15psi followed by a slow lazy creep up to 20psi. With a turbo of this size and a 6cm turbine running with a locked shut wastegate it should be building insane boost. But the most im getting is 24psi, on the dyno it only got 21psi.

To be honest its a total disapointment.
 
What's the fuel line situation like?

Any remaining filters or screens from the old petrol system?

With 180cc of diesel you should be able to wind that egt gauge to stops.

A fuel delivery problem will cause a boost problem.
 
Dougal said:
What's the fuel line situation like?

Any remaining filters or screens from the old petrol system?

With 180cc of diesel you should be able to wind that egt gauge to stops.

A fuel delivery problem will cause a boost problem.
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No issues with fuel delivery. All factory filters and strainers removed. I have a 120mu inline filter then a 10mu in the water separator and the factory filter at the engine.

I have no issues with the fuel, I could and can wind it right out the issue is there is not enough air to comensate for the fuel added. Right now at 23psi max my EGT's climb to a point im not comfortavle with 1250+f with in 10sec. I can add more fuel and make more boost with the added fuel issue is the EGT's jump that much quiker and get that much hotter.

On most the mountain passes around here that I usually drive this over it will melt this engine down running that hot. Im spending on some cases 20min at the time with my foot to the floor and 1250+f after 10sec will just get worse and worse.

At this point I do not feel adding more fuel is the fix. I can but and will try today but I think I know what the results will be.
 
Wheelingnoob said:
No issues with fuel delivery. All factory filters and strainers removed. I have a 120mu inline filter then a 10mu in the water separator and the factory filter at the engine.

I have no issues with the fuel, I could and can wind it right out the issue is there is not enough air to comensate for the fuel added. Right now at 23psi max my EGT's climb to a point im not comfortavle with 1250+f with in 10sec. I can add more fuel and make more boost with the added fuel issue is the EGT's jump that much quiker and get that much hotter.

On most the mountain passes around here that I usually drive this over it will melt this engine down running that hot. Im spending on some cases 20min at the time with my foot to the floor and 1250+f after 10sec will just get worse and worse.

At this point I do not feel adding more fuel is the fix. I can but and will try today but I think I know what the results will be.
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I can understand your caution, but you're not going to melt this engine with 1250F. You're not going to melt it with 1450F. I know because I've tried.

I have run 750C (1400F) sustained for several minutes at altitude. I've also seen 900C in moments of inattention.
I have pulled the head of after ~40,000km of this and the pistons had no thermal damage.

If you do find an issue with your turbo, in addition to replacement TD04HL parts, you can get an HE221 CHRA that'll bolt straight into your turbine and only require some profiling of the compressor cover.
 
What purpose do the springs retaining the intake manifold serve? Over boost control? Dougal do you think this could be an issue? I replaced mine with normal bolts when the engine went in.
 
fabmec said:
What purpose do the springs retaining the intake manifold serve? Over boost control? Dougal do you think this could be an issue? I replaced mine with normal bolts when the engine went in.
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Mine are eliminated, I used washers to pre load them.
 
More testing done, backed fuel screw all tge way out. Did run visably more haze but not black clouds. Boost peaked at 25psi again but drive was 40psi or maybe a touch more. Boost still feels slow to build.
 
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