Is this a common failure?

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Joined
Sep 10, 2024
Threads
4
Messages
27
Location
Lexington, VA
Good morning all,

1997 LX 450 185k miles
Bought this vehicle in 2023 with 150k miles since purchase I did a lot of baselining items that are cooling system related but the only suspension parts I replaced where the sagging springs and leaking shocks with OME stock height + tokico. I have been driving it a lot for work lately and decided last weekend to take it along with a few friends up to Nashville from Pensacola Florida. Drive up there went well, everything was normal. The next day I drive it to a local park, pull into a parking spot. We get out, go for a hike, when we come back, I get in the car, back it up out of the spot, turn to the right, hear a loud thump and lose all steering. Tie rod snapped right off. Took a look here on the forum and didn't see anything like this. Everyone appeared to have had tie rod failures only while trying to remove them or from a car accident. My question is why did this happen and why were there no symptoms? I did a tire rotation at 181k and found no play in the wheels when I did the usual 9 and 3 o clock wiggle of the wheels. Experienced no abnormal play in the steering leading up to that. Had the usual vibrations above 70mph but so does everyone right? Feeling stupid I didn't catch this earlier and just wondering if some other underlying issue caused this. As you can see in the photo the boot is likely ripped slightly but I have seen and driven on worse for much longer. Tried fixing it in the parking lot but needed a torch to get the old one off and didn't have it with me and there were no shops in the area working on Labor Day weekend. Had it towed to a gentleman that was recommended on ih8mud in the Nashville area where I am waiting to hear from him. Had to leave it up there and fly home for work.

tie rod fail.webp
 
Vibrations above 70 are not a given. Not at all.

Your TRE failure is not a common thing.

The vibrations*may* have a causational connection to the failure

What do the surfaces of the break look like? Mainly sharp crisp crystalline still or is part (or even most) of the surface rubbed/peened smoth? Smooth surfaces indicate that the failure was a crack that grew and spread over time. *IF* it is ALL crystalline then it was a sudden immediate (or damn close to immediate) failure.

Mark...
 
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I have no vibration at any speed with all 3 of mine.....and that's including 85mph.

That tie rod probably original. Doesn't matter of the mileage, its still 30yr old. I replaced mine when I did the suspension lifts.
 
I have no vibration at any speed with all 3 of mine.....and that's including 85mph.

That tie rod probably original. Doesn't matter of the mileage, its still 30yr old. I replaced mine when I did the suspension lifts.
Yep, I have three FZJs at the moment. 3 other FZJs in the past and a couple of FJ80s too. The only time any of them had vibrations was due to tire issues or suspension/steering issues.

Talking about tire/steering "vibrations" here. Drive train vibrations are another subject entirely. ;)


Mark...
 
That kind of TRE failure isn't a normal/common event, but on a 30-year-old truck the original steering linkage deserves age-based scrutiny even if a 9-and-3 check feels tight. The vibration above 70 is a clue worth treating as separate until proven otherwise: verify tire/wheel balance and runout, then inspect wheel bearings, knuckle-side joints, drag link/TREs, and alignment. Once the truck is recovered, look closely at the break surface and the mating taper for corrosion/pitting, witness marks, a loose taper/nut, or evidence of a crack that grew over time. Replace the failed end with a quality OEM-spec part and check the rest of the linkage before driving; a parking-lot wiggle test won't catch every failure. Hope the recovery is straightforward—we work on these trucks daily in Hagerstown and are happy to help if needed.
 
OK thanks for the replies. Hoping to get the vehicle back in a week or 2. Ill keep the thread posted when I know more. I don't recall what the break looked like other than I remember saying that it looked like it cleanly sheared off. Spent the rest of the day that day using whatever tools I had in my trunk to remove the drag link and try to put in a duralast tie rod just to get home but failed to remove the broken one. I have reason to believe that the tie rod may have been aftermarket as the castle nut was a 22mm.
 
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