Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 23, 2017
Threads
24
Messages
557
Location
Toronto
Hello!


Reason to replace AHC:

Flushing AHC with new fluids before the trip helped improve the ride a bit but still rough. In Jasper, Alberta, the system started acting up and would raise the front to EXTRA H and back at N. I had to take the fuse out many time to reset it, but it ends up in the same position again.

I think it was the sensors, but I figured the cost of new sensors + labour will be close to a new lift kit, and in addition, the ride was rough anyhow, so I decided to replace AHC, it is 15 years old and could die any moment.

Options:
OME is a proven product, but the technology was old. My research on this forum showed that a few who made the switch from OME to Foam Cell Pro liked it. Did not want to spend on expensive set-ups like the Icons.
The price was close to $400 difference between the 2 models, $950 vs 1,350.
However, I got mine for $1,050 (sale price) as the container arrived late to Portland, OR, and I had to wait there for close to 3 weeks until it arrived.
Thank you MetalTech4x4 :)

Facts:
The tires are TOYO Open Country E rated.
Tire pressure: 45psi
No 3rd row seats, however, I have a drawer system with all camping and recovery gears.


Ride Quality:
The difference was immediately noticeable as I drove the car away from the garage, which charged me close to 45% less than other "specialized" shops in the area :)

Gone the jittery ride of AHC!
The suspension limits body roll, feels solid, compliant, but it is not rough.
You definitely get small cracks on the road transferred to the cabin, but it is tolerable.
On big bumps, the Foam Cells soak them beautifully!

On rough back roads of Oregon heading to the coast, and along the coast, the ride was unberable as everything in the car was shaking as I was driving on small and big potholes. I can not compare it to stock setup of the landcruiser as I never had one.
Maybe the shoks are not broken in yet?!

Changed the PSI to 40, and the ride improved :)
However, 50psi on AHC gave me the best HWY mileage.

I just crossed the Mojave desert with a local group, and the suspension was great. Soaking up road imperfections very well, however, I dont think the front shocks retract fast enough.

On gravel road (mostly small stones) it is very rough, reminded me of the AHC ride, but the Foam Cells excells on bumpy dirt and sand trails.

I know most of you might not want to hear this, but I think the best thing about this suspension is the ride quality I experienced on twisty back roads of Oregon and Northern California.

It reminds me of driving the Porsche Cayenne and Infinity FX, of course without the sharp turn-in of the Porsche, but I really enjoyed driving the LX470 (although it is heavy) on the twisty roads the best ever since I put the new suspension.

It transformed the driving dynamics, they are better than Sport Mode. ,,, however, I wish the turn-in was sharper, but this is not what the LX was designed for. Good thing I have good breaks LOL :)

Caster is not perfect as I did not replace the UCA. They are OEM.


I told the garage that installed the lift kit to drain all fluids from the driveline before they start the installation of the kit so the fluids takes its time to drain. I did the flush because might as well, since the car is on the hoist. PO told me it was done 50k miles ago.

I got Mobil 1 75w-90 from Amazon, $10, 7 Liters.
I got Redline DT4 (I think) from them for $17 dollars/Liter. They tell me 4.5L was put it to replace the fluid that came out. My transmission shifted silky buttery smooth before, but after the Redline, is even smoother on 1st and 2nd :)

Amazon missed my ACDelco Lower Ball Joint shipment, so I had to buy Sankei 555 form NAPA.
After 6 hours on the phone with Amazon, got a refund + $100 credit.
I bought Viair 88p + radio + ARB deflator with it :)

The cover of the LBJ on driver side is squished, unlike the other side, which is perfect, is there a problem with that? will it get torn sooner?



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Let me know if you have any questions!

My LX is for sale after the trip is over, so DM me if you are interested ;)
Only 158k miles as of today, 2003.

Thank you!!
Tareq
 
Front looks almost higher than rear in some photos, maybe that's why it seems so stiff? In other IM 2" kit install threads it seems common that people have had to back off on the TBs to get some rake which made the front end less stiff. Has anything changed over time, i.e. are you more happy with the ride after putting some miles on?

Thanks for sharing the install details. I am also going to have a small non-4x4 specialized shop install my IM 2" FCP kit. Seems that Metaltech's sale forced many Mudders into buying the kit, it was a sweet deal!
 
Front looks almost higher than rear in some photos, maybe that's why it seems so stiff? In other IM 2" kit install threads it seems common that people have had to back off on the TBs to get some rake which made the front end less stiff. Has anything changed over time, i.e. are you more happy with the ride after putting some miles on?

Thanks for sharing the install details. I am also going to have a small non-4x4 specialized shop install my IM 2" FCP kit. Seems that Metaltech's sale forced many Mudders into buying the kit, it was a sweet deal!

Sweet deal indeed!
The shocks look really beefy :)

I only have about 1000 miles since i installed them so they are pretty much new still.
As I said, lowering the psi to 40 improved the ride very much!

With regards to front end height, i have had this comment before, but in reality they look leveled.

What do i need to adjust the TB lower?
Do i need to do alignment again after lowering them a bit?

Are u doing a diff drop wth yours?
 
Sweet deal indeed!
The shocks look really beefy :)

I only have about 1000 miles since i installed them so they are pretty much new still.
As I said, lowering the psi to 40 improved the ride very much!

With regards to front end height, i have had this comment before, but in reality they look leveled.

What do i need to adjust the TB lower?
Do i need to do alignment again after lowering them a bit?

Are u doing a diff drop wth yours?

Just de-tension the torsion bars. On a non-AHC truck, the torsion bar will create lift by being tensioned more. Doubt you'll need to re-index. Just reverse crank maybe 2 turns on each side and measure to make sure they are cross-balanced. You're looking for a 1-1.5" rake from rear to front.
 
^ That, and yes I think you ideally should get an alignment any time the front height is adjusted. The bars are turned using a 32 (?) 30 mm socket, counter clockwise to lower.

I'll be using a Slee diff drop kit.
 
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What are u buying next??
 
Just de-tension the torsion bars. On a non-AHC truck, the torsion bar will create lift by being tensioned more. Doubt you'll need to re-index. Just reverse crank maybe 2 turns on each side and measure to make sure they are cross-balanced. You're looking for a 1-1.5" rake from rear to front.

Very helpful, thanks, but what does "rake" mean?

^ That, and yes I think you ideally should get an alignment any time the front height is adjusted. The bars are turned using a 32 (?) mm socket, counter clockwise to lower.

I'll be using a Slee diff drop kit.

Thank you!
I have a tool box, if the 32mm is there, I will definitely give it a try!

What are u buying next??

Nothing, I wanna sell the car after the trip is over.

If I become an overlander for the long haul, I would rather import my dad's Y61 Patrol:
1) solid axels
2) 2 gas tanks = 36 gallons total
3) 4.8 I6 as powerful as our 4.7 V8
4) exclusive => cool ;)
5) Tiptronic 5-speed auto

It is not Lexus quality, but it will be a trail rig, not DD


But ,,, if I wasnt able to sell it for my asking price, I will happily keep it as a weekend expedition vehicle, it should last me a looong time, however, at that point I will definitely get 35s as the LX looks like a bodybuilder who skips leg days with those 33s after the lift haha!

Slee front bumper would be great too :)
 
well when you get that patrol and come to seattle again I request a drive
 
Very helpful, thanks, but what does "rake" mean?

Rake, AKA Stinkbug, is the state of having the front suspension lifted less than the rear. Especially on these IFS suspension 100s, when the truck is on level ground, the rear should look higher than the front. People usually measure the distance from the center of the wheel/axle to the bottom lip of the fender. The front measurement should be about 1 to 1 1/2" less than the rear measurement.
 
Rake, AKA Stinkbug, is the state of having the front suspension lifted less than the rear. Especially on these IFS suspension 100s, when the truck is on level ground, the rear should look higher than the front. People usually measure the distance from the center of the wheel/axle to the bottom lip of the fender. The front measurement should be about 1 to 1 1/2" less than the rear measurement.

Thank you, I will check if i have the 32mm first, then get a marker and do it.
It seems counter intuitive to lower it after a lift, but wont hurt to see if it improves ride quality!
I like it as is with 40psi anyhow,,,
 

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