Intermittent Brake Wobble (1 Viewer)

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C6H12O6

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 23, 2004
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Beaverton, Oregon
I've been reading old threads for a while and taking bits and pieces from many of them, but haven't found much with my blend of symptoms. Here is the scoop:

1995 FZJ80. Got hit a couple years ago from the side and bent a bunch of steering components. Had the steering gear box replaced with new OEM unit, tie rods replaced with Slee rods and new OEM ends, and alignment. No weird tire wear, no wobbles or vibrations while driving. No issues for a few years. Went through the front end shortly afterward. New everything except axles/birfs, including new OEM rotors and 100-series pads. No issues after for a couple years.

Now, I'm having a slight pulsing when braking. Sometimes. At it's worst, the steering wheel wobbles back and forth a couple inches and gets pretty scary when coming down from moderate speed (<45 mph). It wobbles really hard between maybe 30 mph down to 15 mph, then settles down. No issues with high speed braking so far, but gets pretty violent at times when you are in the zone. Seems to be worse when going downhill and almost always seems to be brought on by downhill braking at stuck-in-traffic speeds. No warning, it just happens.

I can sometimes feel the brakes sort of pulsing under normal braking at very slow speeds (<10 mph) just before a stop, but without any sort of wobble of the steering wheel. Nothing I really feel in the pedal, exactly, but it just sort of feels like the brakes are braking, then easing off, then braking, then easing off. Not ABS pulse. Much slower than that.

The weird part is that if I come to a complete stop and push on the brake pedal as hard as I can, it goes away. Sometimes, I'll have a little residual pulsing, but I can almost always get the hard wobble to disappear by slowly stomping on the pedal. It always goes away eventually and when it's gone, it drives fine. Even when it is wobbling really badly and it seems like I'm not going to stop, extra pressure makes it go away.

The only other brake issue is really poor stopping power overall. Pads look fine. Plenty of life there, and didn't look like any strange wear. Just have to push the pedal really hard. At a stop, pedal is pretty soft. Not spongy like air in the lines, just not much stopping power and a long throw to get any pressure. I can pump the brake pedal a couple times and get a little more stiffness, but the pedal will eventually sink back down a bit. Not all the way to the floor, but a bit.

Getting a little scary. OEM rubber hoses are cracked, but not leaking. Fluid is shot–looks like maple syrup. Both are on the list. Was getting ready to just put in new/reman calipers as a "while I'm in there" at 245,000 miles, but didn't want to just throw money at this problem. Going to at least do new rubber lines, full fluid exchange, and check the pads. Seems like I might as well do the calipers while I'm at it.

Cursory check for wheel bearing clunks/looseness don't given any hint of a problem there. I haven't pulled the front apart to really check them, but no issues other than this weird braking issue that seem like loose wheel bearings. No bad tire wear, no noises. No "warped rotor" feeling when driving around normally. When it's fine, it's fine. Just got new tires. No change. Not a wheel balance issue. No loose bolts on the front end last time I checked. I should check again. Just so strange that when it isn't acting up, it drives fine. Ok, it wanders a little. Some of the bushings could be replaced. The rears were horrible and were replaced last year. The fronts are in a box in the garage.

Man, that's a lot to read. Sorry. Seems like I probably have more than one thing going on here. Would love to sort this out soon. Any help is appreciated.
 
The fact that you hold the pedal down hard while stopped indicates to me either:
1) wheel bearings (worn spindle?)
2) bad calipers (if they've never been changed in 245K.
3) Worn trunnion bearings, as the braking will cause the wheel to speed up/slow down and give the sensation of pulsing, even though the caplier and wheel are still in synch with each other.

Good luck!

Also check:
Drag link (steering gear to RF)
Track bar bushings
Tie Rod ends
steering arm bolts on bottom of knuckle
radius arm bushings
tire pressures
Flucculator Calibration
 
I had a similar problem. I'd bet your brake pads aren't the right temp./hardness for our heavy rigs. The pads are leaving deposits on the rotors.
 
Were the brakes properly bedded in? Do a search here on proper "brake bedding". I think @LFD2037 is onto something.
 
Also check the rotors and make sure the none of vent slots are blocked with mud. This happened to me and gave similar symptoms. The PS rotor would not heat evenly around its circumference because some of the vents were plugged with mud. Even after I got all the mud out and the problem was markedly improved, I still had some residual wheel wobble when the brakes got hot. I attributed this to pad material not having been evenly transferred on to the rotor, like is supposed to happen when you initially bed in new pads.
 
I just ordered a 54mm socket, so I'll check the bearings as soon as that shows up.

OEM rotors, so no slots or holes. OEM 100-series pads, so no issues with wrong match there. It's hard to explain, anyway. The pulsing is a much slower, longer pulse. I've had brake pad transfer issues before (different truck), but this doesn't feel like that.

Rotors, pads, trunion bearings and wheel bearings both replaced when I did the front end a couple years ago. Not that many miles, either. Spindles looked ok. A little wear, but nothing bad enough to keep the bearing races from seating. I'll start with the bearing preload again. I supposed they could have just settled in after I replaced them. I don't put many miles on this truck, so two years isn't as long as it sounds.

Thanks, everybody.
 
Drag link: Replaced with Slee HD rod
Track bar bushings: In the garage. Need to figure out a bearing press.
Tie Rod ends: New OEM ends all the way around.
steering arm bolts on bottom of knuckle: I'll check again. Torque was fine last time I checked them.
radius arm bushings: Again, in the garage. Need to figure out a bearing press.
tire pressures: New Cooper AT/3 tires. No change.
Flucculator Calibration: ?? Flux Capacitor?
 
I had a bad death wobble the other day... Wondered if I needed to go under and tighten all the linkages. Just for poops and giggles I shook the front wheels and felt play in the bearings. Going to snug it down tomorrow while I have the tools out preparing for a timing belt swap...
 
I had an intermittent brake pulsation issue a couple of years ago. It wasn't due to loose bearings or any other bearing or steering component. I was going to change the brake pads even though they weren't worn, but then the problem went away and hasn't come back.
 
Ok, wheel bearings adjusted a la Landtank. The driver's side was fine, but the passenger side was loose. Looks like I bent one of the star washer tabs down to lock the inner nut, but forgot to bend one outward to lock the locknut. Rookie mistake.

Drives much better. No wandering, not catching grooves in the pavement, etc. Also got new tires, so that could be some of the improvement, but noticeably better handling. Brake pulsing is pretty much gone. First test drive I hit the big hill by our house where I can usually get it to wobble pretty good. Only slight shimmy. Much better, but still not gone. Nothing since, so maybe the brake pads were just jiggling back into place. We'll see.

In preparation for replacing the calipers and hoses, I wanted to flush some of the fluid through while I had everything apart. Didn't want to replace the hoses and calipers with the maple syrup fluid in there. Just flushed/bled the passenger side, then ran out of time to keep going on the DS and already a big improvement in pedal feel. I ordered some Napa calipers while they had their 20% off sale going. Now starting to second guess that. Since the OEM calipers (245K miles) weren't the culprit with the wobble, is it worth replacing them as PM when I do the brake hoses?
 
On a side note, the steering stabilizer was missing one mounting bold and the other was hanging by about two threads. I'm sure that didn't help with the wobbling. Need to order new bolts when I call for the brake hoses.
 
Well, drove over the mountains this weekend and the problem was just as bad as it ever was, maybe worse.

Seems to really be worse going downhill. If I am going over 55 mph, it isn't as bad, but noticeable. The worst is when I'm going 45-50 mph and hit the brakes. Starts off bad and just gets worse and worse as you slow down. The worst was on a pretty steep downhill. It seriously felt like I had two oval wheels that were out of phase. There isn't any pushback felt in the brake pedal, but the steering wheel was violently shaking back and forth. As I came to a stop at the bottom of the hill, the truck was wobbling so badly that the truck was rocking back and forth.

Only issue I ran into doing the wheel bearing adjustment was noticing the star washer wasn't tabbed in to keep the outer nut from loosening. I fixed that on this attempt, but have been thinking about it more. The spindles looked fine, but the thrust washers both had some pretty good grooves worn into them where they contact the wheel bearings. I'm assuming that's from being too loose? Would these grooves cause any problems? I was going to replace the thrust washers and adjust again. I might not have cleaned all the grease off the bearing surface where it contacts the thrust washers, either, so the torque could be off. I'm stumped. Grasping at straws.
 
Jack the front up & see if they're loose again.
 
Yeah, on the list. Just got home from a hunting trip to thunder, lightning and pouring rain. I'll check it tomorrow, but it's wandering again and you can hear/feel a little clunk when you hit potholes in the road.
 
...
OEM rotors, so no slots or holes...

The slots I'm talking about are the slots between one disc surface and the other. I.e., in between the two discs making up each rotor. There are slots there that allow for cooling of the "back side" of each disc surface. If some of those get plugged with mud then the discs are not cooled evenly around their entire circumference, leading to hot spots and different friction coefficients at that part of the rotor. That said, it sounds like your problem is not when the brakes get hot, but rather only when traveling at certain speeds. So I don't plugged slots are your problem.
 
I'm betting if you bed in the pads again it will go away
 
Not sure why I'd need to bed the pads in again. Would they not settle back in to their grooves when you drive? Thought that was more for matching the friction surface of a new pad up to a used rotor.

I did notice that the 100-series pads were extending a bit below the rotor surface and the pads were a little tricky to pull out, due to a ~1/16" chunk of pad material that was unworn/thicker than the rest of the pad. Thought I remember somebody recommending taking a dremel tool to the bottom of the 100-series pad to prevent this.
 

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