Interesting Saga

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Joined
Mar 13, 2024
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Location
NY
Thought I'd share this for some of you who are also nerds about this sort of thing.
Background - 2003 LX470. 275,000 miles
A year ago, I did the valve cover gaskets. About a month after, I started getting P0420 code. A few months after, the P0430 code came in as well. Catalyst below efficiency.

I wasn't able to find anything obvious that would cause this, not that I looked very hard, so I just kept driving with it. I did notice that in the summertime, when I'd go on lengthy highway drives, the code would clear itself. But when I resumed my normal daily city driving, it came back. Hint #1?

Another thing I noticed in the last month or two is that the oil filler neck, where it gets bolted on to the engine, was seeping oil. I took the two nuts off and cleaned up the mating surfaces and gasket, but it still seems to be leaking a bit. Hint #2?

Yesterday, I decided to look at the PCV valve. The valve appeared to be fine, and I could hear it rattle when I shook it around. However, the hose was brittle and cracked. Hint #3?

I'm thinking that the hose was disconnected when the valve covers were being replaced and that cracked the hose. Therefore, there was a vacuum leak between the throttle body and the PCV valve. The engine was getting unmetered air that wasn't going through the MAF, and it was throwing off the fuel trims, messing up the readings from the O2 sensors and ultimately confusing the computer into thinking that the catalysts aren't doing their job. Also, because of the absense of a vacuum, there was no vacuum to pull the PCV valve open to relieve pressure, so the built up pressure in the crank case found its next weakest point, the brittle gasket of the oil filler neck.

After replacing the brittle PCV valve hose and clamps, the next morning, I started the car and it immediately stalled. Twice. On the third try, it started up and ran OK. Drove 5 minutes to a parking lot and turned it off. Started it up again and it stalled. Re-started and it runs fine now. Hint #4?
I'm thinking the computer was used to excessive air coming in through the leak and is used to running way more fuel through the engine to compensate for it. Now, all of a sudden it's getting way less O2 than usual, so it starts out giving it the usual amount of fuel, and because of the excessively rich mixture, it stalls until the computer tries to reduce the fuel.

Do my analyses make sense or are there other factors I'm missing?
Curious about your thoughts.
 
Perhaps do the ol' disconnect battery for 20-30 minutes dealio to reset ECU?
 
I do agree that these ECU’s take some time to re-learn once the mechanical issue is sorted out.
 
Just to update. So at the end of the day yesterday, after the car would stall almost every time right after initially starting it, and then driving fine. I got home. Popped the hood.....and....found the MAF sensor plug disconnected. I forgot to reconnect it after cleaning the MAF the previous night. Went ahead and reconnected it. While I was there, I replaced the cracked breather hose that went from the PS valve cover to the air box, and better sealed up some of the other vacuum hoses. Cleaned the throttle body too. Had the battery disconnected for about an hour.

Reconnected the battery and started her up. Immediately no check engine light - I didn't clear it and I don't think simply keeping battery disconnected for an hour would clear it. Watched it warm up and re-learn idle. Short term fuel trims on both sides sat at -0.82 and long term were both -0.04.

I guess my problem is solved?
 
I absolutely hate to revive this, but need to give an update. The P0420 and P0430 codes came back yesterday....I thought I had her fixed. I checked the freezeframe data and it shows decent fuel trims. Both long term and short term on both banks are within 3% of 0.

When I went into the catalyst efficiency monitor section of Techstream, it said bank 1 test value is 0.772 and bank 2 is 0.830. Max is 0.499.

I watched the O2 sensor voltages for a while while I had the engine running. Both bank upstream sensors switched from high values around 0.8v to lower ones under 0.1. For the sensor 2 (downstream) sensors however, I noticed that they also generally switched quite a bit. And then at one point the B1 S2 sensor stayed at like 0.135 for 10-15 seconds without changing at all. The B2S2 switched almost as much as S1.

I guess I'm really disappointed that I didn't actually solve the problem like I thought I did, and am in a little disbelief that both cats are bad. I would REALLY hate going through buying and installing two new cats and then still get these codes.

Any ideas of anything else I could try? I have a new downstream sensor I might try to put on the B1S2 just to see if the voltage values look any different. Of course I'm worried everything is super rusty there and I'll have a hard time just switching things out.
 
Definitely start by switching out the sensor and cleaning the connector, as that's a common failure point.
 
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