Installing Bilsteins

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Joined
Jan 28, 2012
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121
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3,202
Location
Palo Alto, CA
Got Bilsteins for Xmas. Tried to install it, but for the life of me can't get the rod through the bushings. Already scratched it up trying to squeeze it in with a C-clamp. What's the trick here? Would it be better to get the bushing out and use OEM 2-piece bushings instead? The OEM bushings are so easy to take on and off. Great design by Toyota. I might just have to stay stock...

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I don't think they'll work...while I'm in your area, I'll swing by and take them off your hands.

x2 socket should work
 
I just installed the 5125 shocks last night and had no issue getting them on. Might be a different bushing on the ones you got? I did use a bit of moly grease too.
 
I got the rear ones on, but it got dark so the fronts are still on OEM. No question Bilsteins provide a better ride even with just the rears; however, the OEM are so much easier to get on and off. If I'm on the trail with a blown shock, that's the one with better serviceability.
 
I got the rear ones on, but it got dark so the fronts are still on OEM. No question Bilsteins provide a better ride even with just the rears; however, the OEM are so much easier to get on and off. If I'm on the trail with a blown shock, that's the one with better serviceability.

Yeah, but with Bilsteins you're not likely to be on the trail with a blown shock.

It'll go on. From your photo it looks like you had it almost to the point where you could grab a thread with a nut and then take it on in with a ratchet. If you have a tap and die set it might help to grind a nut flat on one side so it can better engage the shock mount threads. Retap after grinding so the threads are good and smooth right out to the flat side. That nut is your installation tool - take it off and use the castellated original like you otherwise would.
 
I agree with Sarge, all shock boots are poo poo, but at least Billy boots don't wire tie to the shock body where they hold trapped water and let the shafts rust up (translation=rusty shafts wipe out the oil seals at the top of the oil can).
 
I agree with Sarge, all shock boots are poo poo, but at least Billy boots don't wire tie to the shock body where they hold trapped water and let the shafts rust up (translation=rusty shafts wipe out the oil seals at the top of the oil can).

WIRE ties, Jim? Wow.

They use plastic ties these days, and you can't get into the movie theater for two bits anymore. :)
 
WIRE ties, Jim? Wow.

They use plastic ties these days, and you can't get into the movie theater for two bits anymore. :)
Wire ties, as in ties for wiring. Not made of wire.
 
pull it back off, lube up the bushing. put a pipe or long socket on the bushing, so the mounting bolt can go inside ......and hit the sucker with a BFH

just watch your fingers, could even tape socket on so you can stay away and get a nice wack at it
 
Which Billys did you use?

I've been looking at the Doetsch Shocks to go with the NOS Downey springs I just got .... :)
 
Which Billys did you use?

I've been looking at the Doetsch Shocks to go with the NOS Downey springs I just got .... :)
Problem is Doetsch Tech quit making the MV-12 shocks, so now I don't know what a person does when they want a big shock, big body, big shaft, but ultra soft valving (for the rear end, nothing better, was world's best kept secret). I'd ask Doetsch Tech if they can recommend anything close to their original MV-12's.
 
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