imitation hi-lift

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

All their stuff is Chinese. I have heard bad things about their winches going out early. At Gebos (a farm store), a real high lift is 48 dollars. You saved 9 dollars. What are you going to do with all that money?
 
I have never paid more then $50 for the real red High-lifts.......
 
actually the red one is the casting jack and is better(supposedly) then the black jack

DocB said:
Gebos sells the casting jack (the better one) in black. They sold it to me for 48, too. I must be special!
Click to expand...
 
Most farm/industrial/sporting goods shops sell the real deal... Hi-Lifts brands are the only ones I would trust, I have run across a couple others... crappy quality. Plus the Hi-Lift is rebuildable for a few bucks, I have a cast one that is 20+ years old, rebuilt the pins and it is good as new!
 
Since we are deep into trivia and chat here-there is a black cast jack made by highlift. Here is the deal. I was in Mammoth mountain biking and needed a high lift to do a quick trail in my 60 and show my buds where we could go in the truck. The local hardware store has this big pile of jacks $39. They were black with white stickers and say "farm jack" or something generic but to me it looks just like a highlift. We did our trail, didn't need the jack and I forgot about it. A few months later I was looking at the jack and peeled off the stickers. Cast into the body of the jack it says "The Highlift Jack Co." in exactly the same way as my other highlift. In fact, it was identical in every way except color. So it is a Highlift Cast Jack, only black. They just relabel them for another vendor.

For tech-I would not buy or use the Chinese knockoff jack from Harbor Freight. They are risky enough as is.
 
beaufort-fj60 said:
you would think with all this american love flying around in here, you guys would be driving chevys or fords
Click to expand...

Nope-4 Toyotas and a Nissan. One of the Toyotas is USA made. My last "American" car was made in Canada.
 
When you think about what you'll be asking this thing to do, and the ramifications were it to fail,,,, this is NOT the area to be saving a few bucks!

Original High Lift all the way. 60" incher at that.

TB :doh:
 
These things have been around for a long long time and are great in a pinch. Used one to break the suction on each wheel when I was stuck in quick sand up to the frame. That's AFTER I broke a winch cable. The Hi Lift got me out. Essential piece of off road equipment. Also known around here as "Man Killers." NEVER NEVER HAVE A PART OF YOUR BODY, ESPECIALLY YOUR FACE/HEAD, VERTICALLY ABOVE THE HANDLE WHEN JACKING UP OR DOWN. STAY OFF TO THE SIDE WITH YOUR HANDS ONLY ON/ABOVE THE HANDLE. The thing will "wop you up side ya head" about 6 times on its way down. Surprised no woosies have sued the pants off Hi Lift and put them out of bidness.
 
Buy the real thing, when you are having a traction delay (stuck). You do not want to find out you bargin Jack, winch, block etc . is a P.O.S. SPend good money once. Just my $.02
 
First time I ever typed the word. Did not run spell check. Other uses for Hi Lift: home body work, as a "jaws of life" type spreader bar (with proper attachment, as a come along (with proper attachment), to lift the body from the frame when doing a body lift and/or replacing stock body mounts, or use the handle on a punk to whopem up side they head.
 
Bad idea in my opinion man. The one you picked up is cast iron not forged as the red Hi-Lifts are. What it comes down to is lift capacity, over the length of the jack. The higher you go up the less you can lift. With any type of lift (SOA, 2.5"-6") and knowing what a cruiser weighs I'ld spend a few extra bucks versus betting my life on a cheap knock off. You do get what you pay for, and I pay a little more for safety/recovery gear.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom