Idle issues

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Joined
Sep 8, 2003
Threads
371
Messages
6,772
Location
Bozeman, MT
Howdy Everyone-

Drove my cruiser for the first time today with the "new" engine... IT WAS GREAT! :D


My question is, I am having a heck of a time getting any idle without the cruiser running until it is warmed up. The temps are nearly 60 here so it isnt a cold weather thing. Any ideas where to start.

Also, my idle with full choke is nearly 2000rpm, but once warmed up it runs smoothly around 750rpm.

I did play with the idle mixture screw this weekend. And set it up per the Hanes manuals instructions. Can anyone get me going in the right direction?

THanks in advance-
:cheers:
Drew <><
 
85 fj60 2f in a 76 fj40 with the 76 carb/intake, electronic ignition.
 
[quote author=fsusteve link=board=1;threadid=14296;start=msg133353#msg133353 date=1081208983]
Did you check the idle solenoid on the carb?
[/quote]

I think I did, I pulled the solenoid and it shocked me pretty good, kinda like licking a 9v battery (thanks dad), I didn't hear an audible clicking sound when the ignition was turned.
In all honesty, I am not sure if I checked it correctly. How should I check it?

Drew <><
 
[quote author=jwest link=board=1;threadid=14296;start=msg133368#msg133368 date=1081211437]
...heat flapper stuck open?
This was happening before you set the idle mixture. Are you de-smogged?

[/quote]
Yes I am desmogged.

The heat flapper (if you are referring to the emissions flap thingy on the underside of the air cleaner) is open, but I did all my tuning with no air cleaner on the carb at all.

Thanks for any help.

Drew <><
 
There needs to be a very audible click from it when you turn the key to the on position. The coil simply having power going to it does not verify operation. Pull it out, and put power to it and watch it, you should see the little plunger inside the spool move...

Good luck!

-Steve
 
[quote author=Drew <>< link=board=1;threadid=14296;start=msg133314#msg133314 date=1081205973]
... but once warmed up it runs smoothly around 750rpm.
[/quote]

Hmm, idle solenoid, but it seems to idle ok warm.

[quote author=Drew <>< link=board=1;threadid=14296;start=msg133516#msg133516 date=1081225750]
Yes I am desmogged.

The heat flapper (if you are referring to the emissions flap thingy on the underside of the air cleaner) is open, but I did all my tuning with no air cleaner on the carb at all.
[/quote]

Actually, I mean the heat control valve in the exhaust manifold sticking open.
It's closed when cold starting and uses exhaust to heat the intake manifold. It later opens when warm.

But, you could also be running headers in which case you would have done away with the system.

BTW, idle and idle mixture adjustments need to be made with your air cleaner on.
 
Thanks for all the help so far fellas-

I will adjust everything with the air cleaner on... :whoops:that makes a lot more sense.

I am running headers so I dont have the heat flap from the exhaust manifold. I started it up today and it seemed to run a bit better. But I did notice right as it fired up it came up to 1500rpm, and over the next minute or two it climbed to 200rpm, this was with the choke fully out.

I will pull the solenoid later today to see if it is working correctly. Is there a fix for this if it is bad or can you only replace it?

Thanks again guys, it was great jetting around town yesterday, running straight headers and no exhaust!!!!!!!

Drew <><
 
Sounds like your generally pretty jazzed about how your rig is running. Since you now have headers, it may just be taking longer to warm up. The Hot Air Intake diaphragm you mentioned earlier might help some if the system is still connected and working. When cold, it draws warmer air from around the block.
But like I said, you may just be getting used to a new way of running.

Idle solenoid: Poser laid it out for you. Check for basic function. With key on engine off, pull apart the solenoid connector at the carb and listen for a strong relay type click. You can click it on and off from the connector. If it doesn't click, either the solenoid is bad or you're not getting power to it. Also, check voltage. Don't leave the key on for a long time or you can burn out your ingnitor.
You can also remove the solenoid and perform the same test. Be careful with the rubber O ring at the end. The rod can be sprayed or soaked with carb cleaner if needed, and you can spray inside the solenoid chamber of the carb.
 
Drew, I think what you are seeing with the idle speed picking up as the carb warms, choke out, is absolutely normal. However, I think you also have your fast idle set too high. It is supposed to be 1800 (EGR, EVAP and vacuum advance off). If it is set too high, it could, when the choke knob is in, be preventing you from slowing down your idle speed as much as you should with the idle speed screw.
 
Thanks for all the help. My cruiser is running MUCH better, but I would like to run a few more things by you guys:

I am running a header, but I was before the issue too.

My idle solenoid is working. I have the very distinct audible click.

I have reset the timing again. And remixed the idle mixture and idle speed to factory specs. at least I think I have, per the Hanes manual instructions. I cant gain any more rpms with the mixture screw.

When the cruiser warms up, after just a minute or two, it runs smooth but fast, it went from 1500 rpm to 2000rpm in about 2 minutes this morning... but it wasnt even 40 degrees outside either.

I never had to wait as long as I do know to jump in and zoom off. Could temps be playing this much with my idle. I am in Iowa now and I havent had it up and running here until this week. Always down south before Texas and Georgia.

Should I be checking anything else? My idle seems smoother, but not smooth. I am having an exhaust put on it today and I will recheck everything. Any ideas why I am not idling sooner?

Thanks for your time

Drew <><
 
Drew, I tend to agree with IDave. I think what you're experiencing is normal. As your engine and oil begin to warm, engine speed will increase. Remember, your pulling your choke all the way out. (OK, your fast idle may be a little high.)
If you need to choke the motor every time you cold start, then as soon as it starts smoothing out, kick the choke down a little and finish your warm up there. It doesn't have to be all the way out during your entire warm up.
 
[quote author=CruisinGA link=board=1;threadid=14296;start=msg136598#msg136598 date=1081636130]
Another question-Why didn't you use the FJ60 ignition? It is better than your 76 as the FJ60 is vacuum advance=more power
[/quote]

I am using the fj60 ignition... see ya points!!!! :D :D :D :D :D

Drew <><
 
[quote author=CruisinGA link=board=1;threadid=14296;start=msg136597#msg136597 date=1081636088]
Wait until you get an exahust put on. That really seems (at least in my experience) to affect how smooth something idles.
[/quote]

I think it is running better with the exhaust on. Thanks for all the help, it seems to be running a bit smoother, I will wait for tomorrows cold morning start.

jwest, I agree, I havent been keeping the idle out for the whole warm up, I try to get it in as soon as possible though, is it okay to drive around with it out at all? How long is too long?

Drew <><
 
Drew, I take off with my choke out for a time nearly every day. 5 seconds or so at full choke to start, then about halfway in. Drive the first mile (<25mph) and put the choke all the way in. Unless it is really warm out (>55) in which case I need no choke at all.
 
Idle issues UPDATED

Thanks for all your help fellas, I got my idle smoothed out.

I am actually kinda embarrassed about my findings, I had the PCV hose disconnected the entire time, I was tuning. Nothing like a 1/4" hole in the intake to through off your idle speed/mixture. Connected the hose, reset the timing and mixture and speed and she purrrrs like a kitten. Well, like a kitten with noisy mechanical lifters...

THANKS EVERYONE!!!!

I have already run through 2 tanks of gas driving around like a madman, it is soooo great to be moving again! :cheers:

Drew <><
 
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