hug me sideways...

Joined
Aug 16, 2005
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surrey
Another surprise with my JDM HDJ81.
i will keep it short.
got the turbo rebuild 4 weeks ago (thanks Ciaran)
blue smoke (John you were right it was oil)...I removed the valve cover hose from the intake, took the the intake piping apart and found oil in it between the filter and turbo. Fine, old engine, 370K not 70k.
Next I run the valve cover gas return hose through a small filter and into the frame, with gravity forcing any oil back into the engine.
Test drive, no more smoke, great!
Then...
oil squirting (like a cut aorta) from the side of the block, F&%k!!!
no more vacuum inside the engine previously created by the intake suction, now just atmospheric pressure...and the blow by in the crank case.
Cracked block? SURE LOOKED LIKE IT!!!
NO, IT IS A HOLE NOT A CRACK
I pulled the started off ,cleaned the side of the block and this is what I found...
PICTURE:

IMG_8196 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

the hole is to the left of the rib in the center of the photo...on the right is the dipstick guide.

DID ANYBODY EVER SEE SOMETHING LIKE THAT?!?!?!?
WTF??? casting flaw???

options...
re drill, tap a 4-40 and plug with a screw?

j-b weld. or similar

or

spot weld?

please advise.

BTW, Dan, I thing you are onto something when saying JDM suck.

"enough is enough, I am tired of this M%&er*& F^*&ing truck in my M%&er*& F^*&ing driveway" lol

cheers,
 
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Joined
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Marcin, man you have had a bad run of luck with that thing. Maybe not such a case of bad luck as being sold something that was not the real deal. Personally, I think the person you bought it from was never close to being on the up and up. I have been told the same from other people about him.

I have heard good things of JB weld. I have used both the stick and the twin tube apoxy. I would not recommend the stick but you could try the liquid apoxy. It dependends what is behind the hole.
 
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Try the JB weld first, I had good luck with that in the past on a cracked 327. IF that doesnt work, d&t with a plug like you suggested. Just be carefull doing that, I dont want to find metal drill shavings in my oil pan a week after you pick up that fish tank.
 

brownbear

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don't weld it. Unless you can get the grounding clamp like right next to it. Otherwise I would be cautious of arching on any bearings..

Clean it really well and put some JB weld on it.
 
Joined
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Marcin...to echo Phil: That sucks. Sorry to hear.

You may want to consider not running the blowby into the framerail. My understanding is it can be quite acidic. Have you considered something like this: MANN+HUMMEL SG > Industrial Filters > Provent

Also, how is the oil? Blackening up quick or not? Perhaps some ATF in with your oil just before an oil change to help clean things out. Also, folks have reported great results using Auto-Rx FAQ Page Go to Bob Is The Oil Guy - Powered by Motor Oil for lots on information on this product. I've not used it. If you have that much blowby perhaps things are really really gummed up inside too.

Have you had the valves set, and a compression test done?

gb
 
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Marcin Sorry to hear that s*** going on, I think the vendor where you got it from should ( I will keep my comments to myself) I think it should be welded , that way there is no falking with it later B.B is right keep the groung very close and maybe do it while engine is running so there is no fusing. I think those things develop a lot of crankcase acids. No cheap oil and put some copper strips on your dipstic to neutralize the acids from combustion. I did that to my 13B-T the oil at 5000km is still transparent ie you can see the markings on the dipstick . just my 2 cents it works really well though
 
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:censor:Sorry to hear of all the troubles this truck is giving you Marcin. s***ty deal.
The JB weld epoxy may work but the casting has to be absolutley clean for it to solidly bond. I wouldn't recommend eletrical welding while the engine is running. Diodes in the alternator/voltage regulator can be sensitive to those sorts of things (as can other electronics). Brazing wouldn't be an option on an assembled engine because of fire hazard and too much heat on the surrounding areas.
I'm curious how bad the corrosion issue was from open vented crankcase/blowby on older 3B trucks. The ones I've looked under had a black smudge from blowby gasses but I didn't notice more rust near the vent, just the usual rust...
 
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Thanks for the info Greg, and everybody for the sugestions.

When I got the truck I did the full enviro-safe treatment, engine and the whole drive train.
I did the transmission first because the second and third gear would grind when shifting, the treatment solved this problem.
Here is the link to it.

Product Detail

I also got the interchanger… all at cost as part of testing. My fuel consumption did not change, but the engine run at higher RPMs after the treatment.
All that was 10K ago.
Do you think I should still proceed with the MOLY supplement? The enviro-safe epoxy compound is supposed to penetrate the metal and embed itself within the small cracks in the metal surfaces.

I am planning to hook up the valve cover gas return hose back into the intake but before the air filter, with the interchanger in line and gravity preventing oil to be sucked into the intake. It will again provide a vacuum to the crank case.
Any oil that will go through will be collected inside the little dirt cup under the air filer box. I think that this will reduce my smoke as the short test drive earlier was very promising.

I will work on plugging the hole this weekend and will run the truck soon.



thanks again!
 
Joined
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Marcin. I'm out, as with the treatment you have done...I've no idea. Leaning to probably not.

Sent you an e-mail.

gb

Thanks for the info Greg, and everybody for the sugestions.

When I got the truck I did the full enviro-safe treatment, engine and the whole drive train.
I did the transmission first because the second and third gear would grind when shifting, the treatment solved this problem.
Here is the link to it.

Product Detail

I also got the interchanger… all at cost as part of testing. My fuel consumption did not change, but the engine run at higher RPMs after the treatment.
All that was 10K ago.
Do you think I should still proceed with the MOLY supplement? The enviro-safe epoxy compound is supposed to penetrate the metal and embed itself within the small cracks in the metal surfaces.

I am planning to hook up the valve cover gas return hose back into the intake but before the air filter, with the interchanger in line and gravity preventing oil to be sucked into the intake. It will again provide a vacuum to the crank case.
Any oil that will go through will be collected inside the little dirt cup under the air filer box. I think that this will reduce my smoke as the short test drive earlier was very promising.

I will work on plugging the hole this weekend and will run the truck soon.



thanks again!
 
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If it were mine, i would drill and tap it.
Drill very slowly, pull drill out often and clean out hole, if you are lucky you may feel the drill breaking through, you can stop there and tap the hole with little or no shavings.
Red Loctite that little bitch and it will never come out.
 
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If you are going to drill and tap, then I would drop the pan just make sure nothing slips by. You are going to want to change the oil anyways. This is a good weekend for doing something like this is you have somwhere warm and dry to do it.

Marcin, if the compression is still good in all cylinders don't count the engine out yet. You might have many good years with worn oil rings as long as the compression rings are good. Blow by can be managed as greg said with a blow-by catch can. There are a couple threads in the diesel section on how to build them as well as on Outerlimits 4x4. Blow-by is pretty common with an older truboed engine.
 

brownbear

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I opted for the jb weld above...

but if it was my engine I would clean the area uber well and use aircraft prc on it. It is a urethane like substance that seals anything. The surface would need to be extra clean. A couple cans of brake clean to clean that side of the engine. Then use some acetone on a brush to clean it good. Then put on whatever(prc for me, or jb weld) then fill the hole by pressing it in and a little on the outside.

It must be a flaw on the side of an oil passage.


My problem with the welding was the arching. The running idea is good. But then you have the battery and alternator running. If you could bypass the shut down control. Like I would with the edic on a 60. Then when you turn the key off it would keep running. Then the alternatror would be dead. You could pull the battery. Then weld.

Pulling the battery with the ignition on I would imagine would spike it. But I dunno.....
 

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