Hub question

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canucksafari

canucksafari

Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Threads
410
Messages
9,159
Location
Abby
Last night I finished rebuilding my knuckles with new seals and bearings from the inner axles seal back (including king pins). It all started because of a leaking inner axle seal. But the lower king pin bearings were scary. From now on I will be pulling a bolt on the lower king pin bearing plate to make sure they are dry after any water crossing - the same for a bottom bolt on each knuckle wiper.

Anyways, I went to fit the locking hub and now find it is short on both stub axles to get the snap ring clip onto the stub axle splines. It isn't off by much (maybe less than a mm) but enough that the snap ring will not go into the grove. I know the Cruiser front hubs are a bit different but was wondering if anyone ran into this before after a full knuckle rebuild and what the solution may be. According to the FSM, I pretorqued the wheel bearing lock nut to 145 fl lbs. Then backed it off the outer bearing to nothing. Then spun the rotors about 10 circles in both directions and then tightened bit back up to 35 ft lbs. FSM calls for a final toque of 26-43. I do not want to pull everything apart again. I am hoping there is a simple solution. Was wondering if it may help if I leave the locking hub mechanism out, put the covers on, and then just take it for a drive?

Here are some pics...

Stub axle. Snap ring goes in the inner snap ring grove
IMG_20140717_1112431_zps6c51dcca.jpg


Locking hub outer brake, spindle washer, stub snap ring
IMG_20140717_1115431_zpsd2fb991b.jpg


Locking hub components laid out in order
IMG_20140717_1117051_zps6cd4bbd0.jpg
 
X2... See if you can pull the axle out a bit... Might not be the easiest thing to do when everything is fresh in the knuckle... Also cycling your steering lock to lock can sometimes move your axles around a bit...
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I got the hubs on. I really had to work the stub axle in and out and spin it. It took a while on each side but now they are on. I guess it was a combination of too much grease (if that is possible) and new components. Now I am struggling with the damn knuckle seal, wiper and metal ring. It came with the metal ring between the seal and the wiper but the wiper is not fitting tight over the knuckle. I am thinking this metal ring needs to be on the outside up against the two split plated that bolt down to hold it in place. You'd think I could find a pic on the internet.
 
To help shift the axle shaft in and out, I thread a 12 mm bolt into the end of the axle with a fender washer. The
washer sticks out a bit around the edges and gives me something to hold onto to tweak the axle. I don't know if
you do this but it works for me.
 
cruiserpilot said:
To help shift the axle shaft in and out, I thread a 12 mm bolt into the end of the axle with a fender washer. The
washer sticks out a bit around the edges and gives me something to hold onto to tweak the axle. I don't know if
you do this but it works for me.
Click to expand...

Good idea. However, it would not work for me. There is no place to thread it to the stub axle.
 
Looks like the end in the pics has a threaded hole, same as the land cruiser ones.
If the Nissan are similar to the Land Cruiser design ones then you can look at land cruiser set ups. http://www.sor.com/cat080b.sor
Don't you have an FSM for that thing?
 
Yes. it is similar on the knuckle. I final was able to confirm on two Aussie sources that the metal supporting ring goes against the housing flange, then the seal and then the scraper.

No threading on the end of the stub axle. It is just centre punch indented. I am guessing that is for turning it at the parts factory which makes them.

I 'll get up early tomorrow morning to finish it off. If nothing else goes wrong, i will get oil into the dif, change air filter, change fuel filter and run some liqui molly injector, then fuel up and off to Air Care for hopefully the last time.
 
Got both sides back together Friday just before supper. Looks like new. Did Aircare Saturday morning. Just need to drill out the broken skid plate bolt studs and retap them. Also plan on getting the M55 on asap. I can't take the road noise of the Yokahama MTs. Not sure if I should keep them just for off road or sell them. Went for a short run up Sylvester last night will have a o go out and test it a bit more. Also need to get the winch installed asap. Still dome and things to fix like rusted rear window for and and a few small spots of rust on a side door and rear ambulance doors. I should have watched Louis' YouTube tutorials before doing this job, especially his trick for separating the Bird and then for putting it back together.

IMG_20140718_203513_zps8ea3ef75.jpg

IMG_20140718_203547_zps167aff1f.jpg
 
My neighbour often parks his 81 on his lawn so I figured was good to go with the temp lawn ornament thing. :deadhorse: Axles and CVs (aka Birfs) are similar to an 80. Hubs are auto or manual locking. For anything tougher than flat grass, I usually like to manually lock them in. ;)

I am thinking that hex head bolts may be the way to go for skid plates - if I can find them in metric in a grade 4 or better. Too many of the old ones got their heads deformed by sliding over rocks.
 
Yeah, when I busted every rusted bolt off my skid plate, I simply gave Jason a call to make me a new and better one. :meh:
 
He drives a Camry- wisely. The only reason these are seeing the light of day is that AirCare is gone soon. John was too cheap to buy a new set of studded tires.

(Actually- they are looking good- get out there and break something!)
 
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